I need to remove the rear tire of my L295DT to repair right rear axel. It is a filled tire and quite heavy for one person. anyone found any tricks to remove and install them other than brute force and grunting. I may try an engine cherry picker.
Removing and installing rear tires
- Thread starter carp1
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85Hokie
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Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
well, BTDT! Not on a L series but a 53 ford with filled tires at my chest!
If you jack the tractor up, about a 1/4" higher than the tire off the ground, it can be pulled away and rolled carefully away and stood up against something firm, then repair and roll back. AINT gonna say it is easy getting back on!
But doable! The tire really never comes off the ground!
If'n you have cherry picker on anything like that - it would make it a lot easier!
If you jack the tractor up, about a 1/4" higher than the tire off the ground, it can be pulled away and rolled carefully away and stood up against something firm, then repair and roll back. AINT gonna say it is easy getting back on!
But doable! The tire really never comes off the ground!If'n you have cherry picker on anything like that - it would make it a lot easier!
Know anyone with a pallet jack? Fashion a brace out of wood to keep the tire more or less upright. Other than that, they make special "forks" on small caster wheels with a hydraulic jack that raises an inner set of forks to lift the tire. May be able to rent one or borrow one from a heavy truck shop?
Thanks. Those are good ideas. I have always found lining up the holes to studs hard because the tires are heavy to slide. I may also try the mechanics creeper. I use it to align my tracks on the utv.
A creeper will fail under the load. A pry bar under wheel will move/skid wheel around as needed. Cherry picker will work fine. Then at least wheel is secure.
I was thinking the cherry picker. Son-in-law has it now and he is 5 hours away. But I just remembered a neighbor has one. If he is around the cherry picker it is. Thanks for the info.
Lil Foot
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Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
I've been thinking about getting one of these from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200500582_200500582
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200500582_200500582
I have a motorcycle lift. That is a good idea. have not got to the tractor as the master and slave cylinder on my jeep clutch went out and I have to work on that first. When it rains it pours.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html
Never done it but I would think this would work. Just need to balance upright and roll in an upright position, wide tires should not fall if carefull. A bottle jack or floor jack lifted to the proper height should work fine.
Never done it but I would think this would work. Just need to balance upright and roll in an upright position, wide tires should not fall if carefull. A bottle jack or floor jack lifted to the proper height should work fine.
I have one like this that no doubt would lift the tire but sure wouldn't want it to get the tire up too high; just enough to roll off on those wheel dollies. You couldn't roll the entire assembly because the bottom support grabs the floor.
Regretted even getting the thing until I discovered it comes dang near level with my tailgate and I've unloaded my truck with it a few times with things I can no longer lift. I just ease them down.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=motorcycle+jack
Regretted even getting the thing until I discovered it comes dang near level with my tailgate and I've unloaded my truck with it a few times with things I can no longer lift. I just ease them down.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=motorcycle+jack
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I have that tool for my truck tires, but I'm not sure it will fit wide enough for a rear tractor tire. It does work well for lifting and spinning heavy tires. It at least gives you a fair chance to get the lugs aligned.I've been thinking about getting one of these from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200500582_200500582
I witnessed a guy change a combine tire by himself. I would never attempt it myself. Not sure how big your wheel is, but careful jacking and a helper with a couple bars and wheel is off. On that note i mentioned a helper. A gentleman i knew a few years ago got impatient waiting for help and laid a large tractor wheel on himself. Suffocated him.
I really dont like to offer advice in reference to doing this sort of thing alone unless you are using a shop crane and safe practices.
I really dont like to offer advice in reference to doing this sort of thing alone unless you are using a shop crane and safe practices.
I use a five foot rock bar. Been doing it this way for 30 years after a truck mechanic showed it to me as a young helper.
Lay the bar on the ground with the end lined up with the axle end. And 90 degrees to tractor.
Put a board or something under the outboard end to raise that end of bar up about an inch or two.
Roll tire onto bar getting highest lug lined up (best you can). Tire is more or less balanced and Center on bar. And close as possible to axle end.
Then one hand holds (balances) top of tire as other hand raises bar (class 2 lever) and moves it left and right slightly to get that top lug aligned.
Put a nut on it, move bar around to get a 2nd one and down hill from there.
The block under the outboard end you ask? In order To get your fingers under the bar with a heavy ass tire sitting on it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lay the bar on the ground with the end lined up with the axle end. And 90 degrees to tractor.
Put a board or something under the outboard end to raise that end of bar up about an inch or two.
Roll tire onto bar getting highest lug lined up (best you can). Tire is more or less balanced and Center on bar. And close as possible to axle end.
Then one hand holds (balances) top of tire as other hand raises bar (class 2 lever) and moves it left and right slightly to get that top lug aligned.
Put a nut on it, move bar around to get a 2nd one and down hill from there.
The block under the outboard end you ask? In order To get your fingers under the bar with a heavy ass tire sitting on it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Skeets, I agree once again! Somehow, someway these post get so large I have to scroll across the read them.
I've gotten to where if it's a large picture or the post scrolls and scrolls, I just ignore the entire post and go on!
Probably has to do with all the electronic gizmos we don't have/use.
Even when I preview this one it seems too long. Once they get started BIG they stay oversized!!!
I've gotten to where if it's a large picture or the post scrolls and scrolls, I just ignore the entire post and go on!
Probably has to do with all the electronic gizmos we don't have/use.
Even when I preview this one it seems too long. Once they get started BIG they stay oversized!!!
rbargeron
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Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
I've changed/swapped/removed filled 17.5x24 R4's
weighing around 750 lb. Lifting with a chain from
above is best but it can be done safely by hand,
especially tires 500 lb or under, similar to the L295's.
To do it by hand I don't like anything with rollers under
the tire. Maintain floor contact so it can't get away.
With a jack under the axle and the nuts off, hold the
tire at 10:30 and 1:30, tipoing it slightly toward you.
Work it each way so the bottom gradually walks out.
Keep it near vertical, tilting enough to make progress.
Plan ahead for something nearby to lean it against.
weighing around 750 lb. Lifting with a chain from
above is best but it can be done safely by hand,
especially tires 500 lb or under, similar to the L295's.
To do it by hand I don't like anything with rollers under
the tire. Maintain floor contact so it can't get away.
With a jack under the axle and the nuts off, hold the
tire at 10:30 and 1:30, tipoing it slightly toward you.
Work it each way so the bottom gradually walks out.
Keep it near vertical, tilting enough to make progress.
Plan ahead for something nearby to lean it against.
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