Interesting personal email from Kubota

[Dave_eng]

Any email can have the "from" address spoofed. Thus, this so called return address may or may not be legitimate. You can usually right click on most emails and look at the full headers or full content, to see if there are any links. Links that point to anything but Kubota.ca would indicate the email is fake.
I use a service called Spamcop (spamcop.net) to process all my suspicious emails (spam). It parses the full headers and lists where the email really came from (you have to be able to extract the full email headers however).
Another option is to move the email to your junk folder, open it safely (most junk folders do not allow live links), simply hover your mouse pointer over any link (but NEVER click), and most browsers will show where the link goes to. If the displayed link is different than the actual link, it is a fake link, hence fake email.
There are other options, but they get more technical yet.

Sagor
An technical email question I would appreciate your answer to.

I received an email this am purporting to be from my telco. I first tried clicking reply thinking it might give the same info you mentioned in the post quoted, but that option was greyed out.

My next step was to click forward and then I saw the email address was @jules.com which certainly is not my telco. Suddenly I noticed the original email was being displayed with a space above for me to add the normal stuff to any message you forward to someone.

Is forwarding it the same as opening it and a bad way to deal with suspicious mail?

I should have read your suggestion about the junk mail folder more thoroughly the first time but I did not appreciate what benefits that folder provided.
I just tried the right click on a normal email from this forum and what happens in my Outlook is the following menu opens.

I right clicked on the email in my inbox. Should I be doing that at another time?
Dave M7040

 

[sagor]

Sagor
An technical email question I would appreciate your answer to.

I received an email this am purporting to be from my telco. I first tried clicking reply thinking it might give the same info you mentioned in the post quoted, but that option was greyed out.

My next step was to click forward and then I saw the email address was @jules.com which certainly is not my telco. Suddenly I noticed the original email was being displayed with a space above for me to add the normal stuff to any message you forward to someone.

Is forwarding it the same as opening it and a bad way to deal with suspicious mail?

I should have read your suggestion about the junk mail folder more thoroughly the first time but I did not appreciate what benefits that folder provided.
I just tried the right click on a normal email from this forum and what happens in my Outlook is the following menu opens.

I right clicked on the email in my inbox. Should I be doing that at another time?
Dave M7040

Hi Dave. A lot of issues here. First, some of this depends on what email "package" or service you use. For most of us, forwarding does "not" open any attachments. So for that part you may be safe. However, whether it opens the email as in preview depends on your email app.
As for the reply address, those too can be spoofed but in your case seeing a reply address totally different than what you expect indicates a spam or fake email. Do not blame the return address "person", they too can be a victim of email harvesters and spoofing. Many email spammers gets email address lists from compromised systems (they get their address book), and then send emails spoofing a "from" address that is one of the people in that list. This is common practice for spammers. This makes people more likely to open an email, seeing a possible person they may know as the return address. It is all fake in most cases.
Move any suspicious emails into your "junk" folder and then look at them, if you wish. Most junk folders do not allows opening attachments or live links. That is the safer place to look at them (but safety is still relative to your common sense).
Unfortunately many email packages, including Microsoft, actually "open" the emails to preview them. Always turn off any preview in any email package/service you have. Having a preview on is like opening the email. Even if you do not click any links, embedded code in the email itself can "call home" to the spammers showing you actually opened one of their emails. You will get more emails from that point on...

Been chasing viruses and spammers since the 1980's....

Steve

 

[sagor]

I really wasn't trying to be a PITA over it, in all honesty I was more wondering about manufacturing marks.
That is a Canadian company bolt.

Standard bolt markings would make that a Grade 2 bolt. The triangle is just a manufacturer's mark, nothing more. Any manufacturer can use any mark they want (within trademark regulations). SAE 8 is more of a bolt geometry, not a grade. Misleading isn't it? Unless it has the 6 marks on the head, it is not grade 8.
Three symmetrical lines (120 degrees apart) on the head would be grade 5 bolt, 6 lines would be a grade 8 bolt.
These standards are North America wide (or more). European marks have numbers indicating grade of bolts (10.9 is close to Grade 8)
As well, you can get things like Grade 8 bolts that are black in color or chromated (brass/yellowish type color), makes no difference in bolt grade.

 

[Russell King]

Russel,

It look like it only directs you to within whatever model that you have initially picked, and does not point out other models that use the same part #.

I could swear I have seen it return multiple models but memory is a tricky thing.

I'll goof around and see if I can get it to work over several models, unless you already know and wave me off.


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[sagor]

Maybe because they are cad plated and shiny? A nice touch for use in a potentially salt-laden application.

Better?

Does anybody want a picture of them holding today's newspaper?

Clear picture, those are both grade 5 bolts, no question about it...

 

[sagor]

Here is the photo for the grade 8 Fan shear bolt provided for the owner from Alaska with shear bolt problems.

What was happening to this owner is the shear bolts provided in the bag by Kubota had the threaded part of the shank on the shear plane and with repeated failures of these hard threads with the two flanges, the holes became distorted.

He has now welded up the holes and re-drilled, obtained a grade 8 bolt with a longer shank, .....

Dave M7040

Dave, using a longer shank may be an error. The Gr8 bolt pictured may very well depend on the narrow threaded cross section area as the shear point (especially in a 3PT coupling/shear point). The narrow threaded area may be 10-20% less area than a full shank cross section area. Using a solid shank on such a small diameter bolt may increase the shear strength 20% or more. Something else may fail before the bolt does.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I could swear I have seen it return multiple models but memory is a tricky thing.

I'll goof around and see if I can get it to work over several models, unless you already know and wave me off.


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Please try and tell me I'm wrong, I would love for it to work!

 

[Toyboy]

Kubota does have a torque value for the shear bolts of 9' # or 108" #. I always torque mine and wonder how many others pay any attention to that spec?

 

[sheepfarmer]

Kubota does have a torque value for the shear bolts of 9' # or 108" #. I always torque mine and wonder how many others pay any attention to that spec?

That is a good point, and the manual for my snowblower does have a table of torque values, and does recommend that the shear bolts be tightened to the "proper" value. Tne value (if I read this table right) for my 5/16 diam grade 5 shear bolts is 17 lbs-ft. Not that I've checked it .

Seems like the different blowers have really different mfg recommendations with regard to shear bolt grades and sizes, and maybe it depends on the size or age of blower if RAD is trying to deal with the shearing issue.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Interestingly enough the 17 foot pound torque may have some relevance to lifespan of a shear bolt. Too tight will stretch bolt and weaken it. Too loose and it gives moving parts room to wear and pound against bolt. .

Just a little info on how tough a 5/16" grade 5 bolt is. Its from my app called Iengineer.a useful reference.
Grade 5 china vs grade 5 bolt used by caterpillar i could almost guarantee are somewhat different.

 

[RCW]

Not sure if helpful, but here's a spare set for my BX2750D blower.

The grade 5 are grooved twice, the grade 8 once. I break 2 or 3 per season.

3 so far this season, and seems the augers break 2-1 over the impellor over the last 4 seasons. Of course, there are 2 auger shear bolts vs just one on the impellor - so makes sense. Three of those seasons we were above average for snow.

Unfortunately - I don't have P/N's. The blower came with an extra set, and I took them to local Kubota dealer to match them, and done that since new. They certainly look different than some of the other pictures.

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[sagor]

Not sure if helpful, but here's a spare set for my BX2750D blower.

The grade 5 are grooved twice, the grade 8 once. I break 2 or 3 per season.

3 so far this season, and seems the augers break 2-1 over the impellor over the last 4 seasons. Of course, there are 2 auger shear bolts vs just one on the impellor - so makes sense. Three of those seasons we were above average for snow.

Unfortunately - I don't have P/N's. The blower came with an extra set, and I took them to local Kubota dealer to match them, and done that since new. They certainly look different than some of the other pictures.

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P/N are (for BX2750D with serial # over 2800426 (may apply to other D models with lower serial #'s as well):
Auger: 70060-01338 (Grade 5 bolt)
Fan: 70060-02808 (Grade 8 bolt)
Groves are on the Gr5 bolts at the threads because the groves are deeper than the inside thread cross section (smaller diameter). On the Gr8, the thread diameter cross section is about the same as the actual groove on the bolt, hence no need to machine a groove on the threads, the threads will shear just as well on their own.

 

[sagor]

That is a good point, and the manual for my snowblower does have a table of torque values, and does recommend that the shear bolts be tightened to the "proper" value. Tne value (if I read this table right) for my 5/16 diam grade 5 shear bolts is 17 lbs-ft. Not that I've checked it .

Seems like the different blowers have really different mfg recommendations with regard to shear bolt grades and sizes, and maybe it depends on the size or age of blower if RAD is trying to deal with the shearing issue.

The grade 5 shear bolts specify a torque of 9 ft-lbs. That is because the cross section where they are machined down is actually less than 1/4". You cannot torque them to 5/16" specifications, as they will stress the shear points. Not sure about the Gr8 fan bolts, but I suspect 9 ft-lbs is enough as well, just to ensure the lock washer grabs well enough.
Regardless, I just torque them down tight enough to flatten the lock washer, then just a bit. Enough at that point....

 

[RCW]

Thanks. Mine is SN 211xxxx, much earlier but seem similar.
I have a thing about that stuff.

Keep this in my wallet with all the details for my tractor. Makes life easier sometimes.

I never had that kind of information for my kids......

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[sheepfarmer]

The grade 5 shear bolts specify a torque of 9 ft-lbs. That is because the cross section where they are machined down is actually less than 1/4". You cannot torque them to 5/16" specifications, as they will stress the shear points. Not sure about the Gr8 fan bolts, but I suspect 9 ft-lbs is enough as well, just to ensure the lock washer grabs well enough.
Regardless, I just torque them down tight enough to flatten the lock washer, then just a bit. Enough at that point....

Both the fan and the auger have grade 5 bolts on tne B2782B, and the manual recommends them in two places. No grade 8's. The manual was printed 1/15. The table I referred to is in that manual, although Kubota is known to do a lot of cutting and pasting. It would be disappointing if they wanted you to torque the bolts precisely and didn't mention subtracting for the grooves. I suspect your last sentence is "close enough for government work".

 

[sagor]

The BX2750D does specify Grade 8 bolts for the fan, Gr5 for the augers. Each snowblower is different I guess, depending on the rpm and torque the devices use.
That said, I do not see any BX2750D blower with a serial below 270xxxx. Serials below that are likely A models like: BX2750A 2030440 UP
Bolt sizes and grades may vary for earlier models of the BX2750

 

[RCW]

This is my tag on the blower. Wondered if I misread it, but definitely a BX2750D and 211xxxxxx

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[sagor]

This is my tag on the blower. Wondered if I misread it, but definitely a BX2750D and 211xxxxxx

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That serial is 21 million and some, way up past most BX2750D that are in the 2.8 million serials and up. So, technically, that is a very high serial number, and thus the same parts as other 2750D with serials above 2.8 million. At first, I misread your serial as 2.1 million... My mistake.
Best to call a local dealer to verify that serial number (when it was made). Anyway, if your blower is similar to my BX2750D (serial higher than 2,800,xxx), you will have those standard Gr8 fan bolts and Gr5 auger bolts.

 

[Toyboy]

Are you sure that serial # really means 21million units produced? If so, I never realized that there were that many BX tractors blowing snow. I find that had to rationalize.

 

[RCW]

Are you sure that serial # really means 21million units produced?

Nah - they start with a number for series, model, etc.

SN #1 for a thing might be 2345000001.