Hydraulic Chute Rotator

[ChuchVT]

I have a BX2750 snowblower with a manual chute. Is there any reason I couldn't buy one of these and make a bracket to hold it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NorTrac-Bi-...669789?hash=item4d394a909d:g:zz8AAOSw9r1WEqgm

 

[OldeEnglish]

You can absolutely build your own, I only suggest to find the slowest motor you can find. I build one using a gear reducer as well but only because it worked out perfectly for mounting everything on the blower I had and it worked out being the perfect speed to control where I was throwing snow. You can also reduce the speed by restricting flow.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That model of pump/motor is too high of GPM and too fast of rotation!

 

[kupitz]

Look for an Eaton hydraulic motor, you can find several varieties that are slow enough. I have one at home and have the hoses connected and checked rotation, slow enough to use, but it's a bigger heavy motor and has a 1" keyed shaft. I still have to figure out mounting and connection to the auger. If you like I can get you the Eaton number when I get home, shoot me a PM. Personally I would go with a smaller one if you can find it, got mine for free so I am going to try to use it.

 

[fatjay]

Why not buy a $20 power windows motor and make a mount for that, then get a ON-OFF-ON momentary switch and put it on the dash. A good speed, a lot cheaper, and no need to mess with the hydraulics.

 

[ChuchVT]

Thank you!

Look for an Eaton hydraulic motor, you can find several varieties that are slow enough. I have one at home and have the hoses connected and checked rotation, slow enough to use, but it's a bigger heavy motor and has a 1" keyed shaft. I still have to figure out mounting and connection to the auger. If you like I can get you the Eaton number when I get home, shoot me a PM. Personally I would go with a smaller one if you can find it, got mine for free so I am going to try to use it.

 

[kupitz]

Why not buy a $20 power windows motor and make a mount for that, then get a ON-OFF-ON momentary switch and put it on the dash. A good speed, a lot cheaper, and no need to mess with the hydraulics.

Personally, I think the hydraulic option will outlast the electric motor and if you already have a loader valve, why not use the extra function? I have less than $50 in parts so far with hoses, fittings and motor. I just need to fab the mount bracket and connect it. Also frees up that electric for a linear chute actuator in my case as I already have the Kubota electric motor chute option.

 

[fatjay]

If you've already got the parts, then yea. The original motor you linked was $100, plus $20-30 hoses, it can get pricey.

I put an electric chute with power window motor on my other tractor 5 or so years ago, and it's performed flawlessly. I've debated the linear actuator, just haven't made the commitment yet. i almost never adjust that part on my signle stage, but who knows, I may need to for the 2 stage on my kubota.

 

[OldeEnglish]

If you've already got the parts, then yea. The original motor you linked was $100, plus $20-30 hoses, it can get pricey.

I put an electric chute with power window motor on my other tractor 5 or so years ago, and it's performed flawlessly. I've debated the linear actuator, just haven't made the commitment yet. i almost never adjust that part on my signle stage, but who knows, I may need to for the 2 stage on my kubota.

Some people like myself are clueless when it comes to wiring and opt for the hydraulic method. I had an electric chute rotator on my 36" ariens snow blower and it didn't last 1 season. I didn't realize chute froze up and it blew the motor in 2 seconds. I replaced the motor and was more careful with it but eventually moisture made its way into the motor and it crapped out again. I threw it in the trash and went manual.

If you need to add a third function it can always be used for something else as well, so it's not really a huge waste of money.

 

[OC455]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NorTrac-Bi-...8b47d13&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=331673669789

Would this work better for chute rotation? Lower rate 1.1GPM

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NorTrac-Bi-...8b47d13&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=331673669789

Would this work better for chute rotation? Lower rate 1.1GPM

Better on the flow rate, but did you notice the rotation speed?
3600 RPM, or 60 revolutions per second...
You would need one heck of a gear reduction to make this work!

 

[Dwarner]

Would you also install some sort of clutch so the chute or gear won't be damaged if you accidentally over rotate the chute?

 

[OC455]

So....what would you look for in one of these style pumps? Low speed pump? When I looked for a low speed it showed a high torque pump...a low speed pump was at 150 RPMs.

Couldn't a regulator be used? Or in line flow control? I'm just throwing out ideas. What would be a good hydraulic pump to use? Is the bi-directional pump what you should use?

I like the idea of using the loader valve to control chute rotation. A lot of the hydraulic chute builds I've seen do not give any specifics on the hydraulic pumps/motors that were used.

Finding one that would work or what others used that worked is not there.

 

[OC455]

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-DYNAMIC-BMPH400H2KP-HYD-MOTOR-9-7077-400.axd

Or is this closer to what would be more useable?

 

[Dave_eng]

First I am not a hydraulic expert..

When I look at the spec's on the link you provided although the flow requirements are low the speed is very high

This single stage NorTrac® Bi-Rotational Pump/Motor has a low noise CBS6 bi-directional gear pump/motor allowing for either clockwise or counter-clockwise operation. Two check valves ensure safe, smooth operation in either direction. The light overall weight is ideal for all applications. GPM: 1.1, Material: Cast iron, Max. PSI: 4,000, Rotations Per Minute: 3,600, Shaft Diameter (in.): 1/2, Shaft Type: Extended, Stage: 1, Usage: Continuous, Weight (lbs.): 5

2-piece cast iron construction for long life
CBS6 pump features 90% volumetric efficiency and 88% mechanical efficiency
1/2in. dia. extended shaft delivers 3,600 rotations per minute
Excellent cycle times
High power density
4-bolt flange with 1.78in. dia. pilot
Inlet and outlet side ports with SAE O-ring 9/16-18UNF

That is the rpm commonly found on water pumps and fans. Getting it slowed down would be a challenge.

Have you considered and rejected a hydraulic cylinder style which can easily be fabricated. A small hydraulic cylinder with an 8" stoke is cheap and durable.

This one on a 48" McKee/Kubota blower behind a B7100 has worked flawlessly for about 30 years. It was built using a surplus military aircraft cylinder which had a physical lock you could engage by turning the knob you see.

Dave M7040

 

[OldeEnglish]

When looking for a motor look for low speed high torque. When factoring what speed the motor will spin at look at the motor specs especially at what GPM it states. Figure out what GPM your tractor pumps out. If your tractor is say 10 GPM and the pump says say 20 GPM @ 150 RPM, your tractor will spin it at 75 RPM. You can slow it down more by using 1/4" hoses and flow restricting washers with say a 1/32" hole, if too slow drill it out more. Also look for a motor that does not have a case drain, if it does have one it has to be plumbed to the tractor reservoir and I've read where that should be filtered as well. If I can find the motor I used I'll share it, I'm pretty sure it was the slowest motor I could find.

This is the exact motor I used but is no longer available sadly.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...NP-NICKEL-PLATED-HYDRAULIC-MOTOR-9-8111-A.axd

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This should be a good model and size.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...VE-HYDRAULIC-MOTOR-TB0080AS100AAEY-9-9491.axd

 

[OC455]

OK, so I need to find out what my BX2350 pumps at before I choose any hydraulic motor. Cool. Need to find out how I find that information now...LOL.

Then if need be you can restrict the flow depending on how fast the motor spins or change the diameter of the hoses.

 

[OC455]

When looking for a motor look for low speed high torque. When factoring what speed the motor will spin at look at the motor specs especially at what GPM it states. Figure out what GPM your tractor pumps out. If your tractor is say 10 GPM and the pump says say 20 GPM @ 150 RPM, your tractor will spin it at 75 RPM. You can slow it down more by using 1/4" hoses and flow restricting washers with say a 1/32" hole, if too slow drill it out more. Also look for a motor that does not have a case drain, if it does have one it has to be plumbed to the tractor reservoir and I've read where that should be filtered as well. If I can find the motor I used I'll share it, I'm pretty sure it was the slowest motor I could find.

This is the exact motor I used but is no longer available sadly.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...NP-NICKEL-PLATED-HYDRAULIC-MOTOR-9-8111-A.axd

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-DYNAMIC-BMRS100H2KS-HYD-MOTOR-9-7079-100.axd

There's this one that looks pretty close to what you listed.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-DYNAMIC-BMRS100H2KS-HYD-MOTOR-9-7079-100.axd

There's this one that looks pretty close to what you listed.

Why are you looking at a motor that is twice the cost and is overkill for what you need?
This is much a slower motor and 1/2 the cost and size.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...VE-HYDRAULIC-MOTOR-TB0080AS100AAEY-9-9491.axd

FYI: You have 6.1 total GPM, you will have losses for Power Steering and such, so the max would never be over 6.1 GPM.