My Winter Experiment

[lreops]

Can't remember where or exactly when, but I read of a suggestion on how to dull the bucket edge for snow removal. Sounded like a workable idea, so I broke the bank by getting a five foot length of 1½" sch 40 PVC. Trimmed it to proper length and ran a cut lengthwise. Dressed bucket edge and with the rubber mallet, spread it on the edge. Kind of surprised by how tight it fit, believe it won't come off as long as no back dragging is done. Well, I guess I'll just have to wait and see.

Oh, almost forgot, total cost with tax, $4.98, about ten minutes time. If it somewhat does the job then not a hard or expensive replacement.

Ron

 

[jrslick]

I wonder if that would work for a rear blade too?

 

[mendonsy]

Neat idea!!!
Let us know how this works out!

 

[85Hokie]

I wonder if that would work for a rear blade too?

works perfect for the rear blade!!!! btdt...........when it gets brittle, buy another!

 

[gottaride68]

I don't understand, why put that on the bucket?

 

[lreops]

I don't understand, why put that on the bucket?

When I use my bucket on my driveway clearing snow, there are times that I get a little too close to the edge of the grass and end up digging into the sod. And then there are some uneven seams that the bucket edge always seems to find. By design I would think that it would also be good on gravel or stone lanes as the edge would roll rather than dig in. But then again, at this point it's only Theory. You know how it goes, sounded good on paper, we'll have to see if it was a sound theory.

I looked at shoes for the bucket, but for three, it would of been around $153.00. I spent $4.98

Ron

 

[rayc]

ireops, here is my way of doing it. It cost a little more then your way(35 dollars) but might last a little longer. Schedule 80 black iron pipe. In the pic it is not tightened down yet.

 

[skeets]

rayc how did you slpit the pipe??

 

[lreops]

rayc how did you slpit the pipe??

I was wondering the same thing, plus how it would stay in place. The PVC clamps itself and is easy to install and uninstall, whereas using black pipe, I would think would involve a lot more effort to secure. And again, I'm figuring that I might be able to get one season out of one piece , maybe two, which would still be under $10.00

Ron

 

[rayc]

I welded tabs that bolt in five spots where the cutting edge attaches.

 

[BX25DMan]

rayc how did you slpit the pipe??

I would imagine one pass through my table saw would do the trick nicely...

 

[D2Cat]

BX25DMan, post a picture of your table saw. Be sure to post a close up of the blade. It must be a dandy!

 

[BX25DMan]

BX25DMan, post a picture of your table saw. Be sure to post a close up of the blade. It must be a dandy!

I'm referring to the PVC pipe....not steel! LOL

If I were to cut a steel pipe on my table saw I'd give one of those cutoff wheels a try.

"IF" I was to attempt this, I'd make a channel using two boards and run the pipe over the blade raising it a bit at a time until it broke through...I really don't see why it wouldn't work though...

 

[D2Cat]

If you read from post #7 on the conversation is about sch 80 steel pipe. AND YOU MAKE A COMMENT ON HOW TO CUT IT ON A TABLE SAW. Don't try to cut as you described, you'll will be injured.

 

[OldeEnglish]

If you read from post #7 on the conversation is about sch 80 steel pipe. AND YOU MAKE A COMMENT ON HOW TO CUT IT ON A TABLE SAW. Don't try to cut as you described, you'll will be injured.

He's right Don't even try it with a metal disk. Typically I don't cut pipe the long way, but if was to I would snap a straight chalk line down the pipe. Get yourself a box of heavy metal cutting wheels 4 1/2 to 5" for an angle grinder. 4 1/2" is the most common grinder guard size, I have a Hilti that takes a 5in wheel. A partner saw would work too if you can hold a straight line with it. If you can use a cutting torch and get a clean cut that would probably be the best way. I have a Milwaukee metal skill saw that works great on thick metal and doesn't throw sparks, but never tried cutting pipe the long way with it. I'm awful with a cutting torch so I would go with the grinder personally. SCH 80 pipe is some thick material, good luck!


SCH 40 is going to be the most common thickness pipe you'll find (home cheapo, lowes, etc), SCH 80 will only be found at a plumbing supply company or steel fab shop. Usually in my field it's only used with steam or high pressure piping, metal fab shops could be using it for all kinds things.

I give you guys an A for effort for using PVC, It's a cheap an easy way to test it out! I wouldn't be surprised if your tractors shattered the plastic pipe on a cold day. That stuff shatters like glass in below freezing weather by just dropping it on the ground. Don't forget there are 2 grades of PVC, DWV and PRESSURE. They are both SCH 40 but DWV has a foam core, Pressure is solid plastic. DWV is the cheapest and should have " DWV not for pressure" printed along the pipe. I would guess the the Pressure PVC would hold up a little longer. You could get SCH 80 PVC, that stuff is rugged but more expensive. CPVC would be a waste of money. Your best cheap option with plastic is with Black ABS pipe, it would be less likely to shatter. Home Depot usually carries it but depending on where you live in the country it may not even exist.

A thin wall metal pipe like conduit would probably work the best, it should last a season and it's cheap. You can just make one thin slice down it and it will be able to flex enough to fit it on. SCH 40 and 80 steel pipe will be very hard to split and slide on your buckets.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

SCH 40 and 80 steel pipe will be very hard to split and slide on your buckets.

I've been working with steel for a long time and trying to split pipe and then force it over a bade would be dang near impossible, way too many forces working against you.
I've said it before, putting a pipe on my loader bucket or blade would just be making a cheap Zamboni, I would have the slickest driveway and road on the planet!

 

[BX25DMan]

He's right Don't even try it with a metal disk.

I give you guys an A for effort for using PVC, It's a cheap an easy way to test it out! I wouldn't be surprised if your tractors shattered the plastic pipe on a cold day. That stuff shatters like glass in below freezing weather by just dropping it on the ground.

A thin wall metal pipe like conduit would probably work the best, it should last a season and it's cheap. You can just make one thin slice down it and it will be able to flex enough to fit it on. SCH 40 and 80 steel pipe will be very hard to split and slide on your buckets.

My comment was really geared toward PVC pipe because that's where the thread began.

While PVC has merit, I too agree between the cold, bucket weight, and any downward pressure it wouldn't last long at all.

Metal Pipe

It's a great idea but attaching it can be a challenge.

If you were to go this route, another way would be to mill a slot down one side of the pipe. This could be accomplished easily and safely on a milling machine using the appropriate diameter end mill in order to fit over the wear edge. If the pipes length exceeds the milling machines capacity simply make it in 2 or 3 sections.

A bandsaw is another option but you'd have to weld the halves back together to accomplish this mod.

Securing it in place would be the challenge. You could drill and tap a few holes in the steel pipe then use bolts like a set screw but you'd have to get them far enough back over the blades angle, otherwise they tend to shed due to this feature. Tabs as indicated above would be yet a better option.

 

[85Hokie]

My comment was really geared toward PVC pipe because that's where the thread began.

While PVC has merit, I too agree between the cold, bucket weight, and any downward pressure it wouldn't last long at all.

Metal Pipe

It's a great idea but attaching it can be a challenge.

If you were to go this route, another way would be to mill a slot down one side of the pipe. This could be accomplished easily and safely on a milling machine using the appropriate diameter end mill in order to fit over the wear edge. If the pipes length exceeds the milling machines capacity simply make it in 2 or 3 sections.

A bandsaw is another option but you'd have to weld the halves back together to accomplish this mod.

Securing it in place would be the challenge. You could drill and tap a few holes in the steel pipe then use bolts like a set screw but you'd have to get them far enough back over the blades angle, otherwise they tend to shed due to this feature. Tabs as indicated above would be yet a better option.

Guys,

I am sure that no one was going to cut the metal pipe on a table saw, well at least i hope not. I have been using a table saw (triple belt drive big sum beauch) for 30 years and I treat it like the best enemy that i know - sweet and kind!

The point the I want to make is that even cutting sch 40 or sch 80 pvc is something that needs some fine attention!!! Cutting it is not bad, it is the last few inches that will get you! The pipe ( metal too ) has so much internal strain that as you open the kerf ( path of the blade) it will want to close itself back onto the blade causing the bind and potential kick back. The other part of the story is the run the pipe "straight" through the saw - this too can be fun! There is a trademark logo on the pipe , allow it to be your line of site as you run it through the saw as one edge is against the fence - raise the blade enough to cover the thickness of one wall plus a smidge more, this way the blade will cut cleanly.

I have used pvc pipe on jet ski ramps at the lake too, that is even more fun. Taking about a 30 degree pie slice out of it and then wrapping in around a 2x8 treated is a neat trick - jet ski rides up that slick as kat shyte!!!!

But I have used it on a back blade and it work like a charm, the secret there is that there is no down pressure to really screw up the pipe....where as on the front bucket you could break it easier. But for leaving gravel in the driveway there is no better answer!!!

 

[D2Cat]

Saw this post with an idea that will work and last.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/325080-snow-edge-worth.html#post3939328

Look at post #9

 

[rayc]

Just a update on my pipe cutting edge. NFG, took it off this mornning. The snow does not feed into the blower smoothly leaving piles at the sides. Still digs into soft spots . Back with the original cutting edge things worked much better feed wise, but have to watch not to dig in too. Oh well it was only a 50 dollar waste.