Adding Aux Hydraulics to a B6000

[TopGear]

Hi

I am the proud owner a Kubota B6000 which I have had for a few months now. Its one amazing little tractor - build like a tank. I'm sure the 'B' stands for "BEAST" as this little machine truly amazes me with what it can do.

Anyway I built a three point linkage crane for it (see attached photo) and now want to build a front end loader for it as well. The first process is identifying where I can get hydraulic power from. I've seen others connecting to the port underneath the seat (not sure where return goes though) but mine doesn't seem to have a valve just a 'plug' like the 'Iranian' models listed in the B6000 parts manual. I'd also like to use the 3 point linkage and loader at the same time so am not too keen on this option. I've also seen other B series tractors (B7100) and read on this forum (B61000) about using an integration block on the hydraulic lines running from the motor to the back end. unfortunately my tractor doesn't have the integration block and I'm wondering what exactly this is and does it have a part number?

I know the part number for the diverter block is 70070-00385 from previous posts but what is the part number for the integration block? Also what exactly are these blocks? are they anything special or can I simply just tap into these lines myself to get aux hydraulic power?
I realize the aux hydraulic power is limited due to the B6000's small hydraulic pump but it will be enough for my needs as I plan on using small dia. hydraulic rams.

I'm also sure others would be interested in adding some quick release hydraulic fittings on these lines to power various hydraulic implements as well. So if someone can shed some light on the integration block (how its works and what it is doing) and the diverter block it would be really useful.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers John

 

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear. I had a b6000 and I agree the B should stand for Beast. But that Boom looks like it could lift 20 ton. As far as hydraulics I myself would probably go with an external system either off of the pto or off the crank. With the front loader you could put a reservoir in the uprites for the loader. And keep in mind the tractor will steer harder with the loader. If you are going to build the loader as heavy as the rear boom it will for sure steer harder. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[TopGear]

Hi Dusty

yes agree the boom is totally over engineered, however it was built out of scrap I had laying around so it didn't cost me anything apart from a few welding rods and angle grinder disks! I use it to lift 50-60 kg rocks around and its good for that purpose, but being on the back has many mechanical disadvantages for lifting anything really heavy.

I've thought about using an external hydraulic system for the loader, but don't really like this option. A rear mounted PTO pump means the PTO needs to be on for the loader to work and I haven't seen too many easy/or cheap options for mounting a hydraulic pump to the main fly wheel out front. I only use the machine for hobby purposes so speed of the loader doesn't worry me and I think i will get away with using the Kubota's own hydraulic system, also less to go wrong - I just need to find a way to tap into it.

The photo below shows the two way cock below the seat which i am guessing is an optional extra as my tractor doesn't have the cock - its like the insert in the diagram with no cock. I've seen other B6000 on the net using this cock and outlet to power a loader. However I am lead to believe that its a case of either using the loader or the 3 point linkage and this lever or cock selects which one and I'm not particularly keen on this as I would want to add a counter weight on the 3 point linkage when using the loader.

A 'nicer' option I think is to tap into the hydraulic lines on the right of the machine using an 'integration block'. I've seen these on B7100 with loaders. However my B6000 doesn't have this integration block and I'd be interested to see if I can buy and attach this item or alternatively just find out what exactly it does and make up my own. Anyway if someone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated. Is it possible to simply cut these lines and add some quick fit hydraulic fittings for the supply and return lines? or is there something more complicated going on inside this 'integration block'?

Anyway hopefully someone can shed some light on this.

Cheers John

P.S. When I first brought the Kubota I changed all fluids and when changing the front axle fluids found out they were dry anyway i pulled them apart and they looked pretty shocking see photo below and full of shot bearings but the machine had kept on working Anyway after some new bearings and new oil seals and a few afternoons of my time it was all back together again and as good as new. The cogs still looked fine and still looked like they would see the life of the tractor out, but it just goes to show you how much abuse these little machines can take. It still amazes people when they see what a 12.5 hp machine can do compared to there 20+ hp ride on mowers! I think its crazy Kubota isn't still making this model - its the stuff of legends! I'm sure it would climb a vertical wall if you let it! its like a full size 100hp tractor scaled down to fit in your pocket!

 

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear here is a picture of the valve on my B7200. I hope you can see it alright. I scanned it with my printer and coudn't get the resolution low enough to upload. So I brought it up on my computer screen and took a picture of it.

 

[dusty-t]

That block sits beside the brake pedal in the line from the hydraulic pump. The outlet on the right of the picture is an outlet port, the one on the left is an inlet. If you take power out from the one port you must return power back in the second port or you have no 3pt hitch. but as you can see this is a very simple valve if you put a valve in that line from the pump to the 3ph and still have power to the 3ph you should be good to go. But you must understand this is coming from an amature. You really need to get to know about open and closed hydraulic systems, and you may already be familiar with them. But when Guys like me and you mess around with stuff like this we sometimes bugger our hygraulic pump. Or maybe snap the shaft in your steering box because that power steering ram shot out like a rocket. OK My b7200 had a loader on it. The out port went to the loader and the power out from the loader went into the second port to the 3ph.

 

[Mr. K]

Dusty, that's what I call taking a "screen shot". If you want to skip taking your camera out in the future and send someone something that's on your monitor here's how:

1) press the "Print Screen" button on your keyboard - usually up above the "home" and "page up" keys, near the top

2) open up microsoft's paintbrush program

3) in paintbrush, go to Edit->Paste and you'll see whatever was on your screen drop into view

4) in paintbrush, save your image as a .jpg and you're ready to go

 

[dusty-t]

Thanks Mr k. for the instructional. And thanks for gettin in there Vic.I was way over my head on this one. Busting your own stuff is fine.It's called learning the hard way. But helping someone else bust there stuff online is just wrong. In person , yes, online no.I was mostly worried about him dead heading the pump.

 

[TopGear]

Hi Dusty, Vic

Thanks for all your help. Its greatly appreciated. Don't worry Dusty I work by the motto that 'if you can't break it you don't own it' Also if you don't throw some ideas around you don't get anywhere So thanks again for your help.

So based on Vic's description I have mocked up a diagram showing the proposed way of adding a loader controller value to the b6000, which simply just involves tapping into the supply line. Could you confirm what I have drawn is correct? and also that this setup will allow the loader and 3 point linkage to work at the same time? Also Vic can I ask why no hydraulic integration block is needed on the JDM models?

Cheers John

 

[TopGear]

Hi

Sorry in my hast to draw up a diagram I believe the previous version shows the return line cut rather than the supply as you indicate Vic. Can you please comment on this 'hopefully' correct version based on your description.

Cheers John

 

[Mr. K]

Hey John, those diagrams look pretty good! Nice work.

 

[TopGear]

Hi Vic

Thanks for the clarification. Yes I'm pretty sure my Kubota is gray market as it doesn't have the integration block. The diagram I used is from the parts manual which I think is based on the non-gray market version - but nearly everything appears the same and anything I've ordered off my local Kubota dealer using the B6000 manual I have fits.

My B6000 also seems to have smaller front ag tires then some others I have seen on the web, such as the one in the attached picture - but I'm sure they are original. I am planning on building my loader to have similar physical dimensions to this one in the attached photo, however with straight or parallel main arms (to the bonnet) rather than the angled ones shown.

Anyway I'll keep you posted on how I go. thanks again for your help.

Cheers John

 

[todddrummey]

Hi Top Gear,

I'm a little late reading your post but I will make a comment in case you haven't started building yet.

I have a B6000 with the loader shown in your last post. It has an external pump which is powered by a belt off the fan pulley. It works fine. Plenty of pressure and speed. The pump is mounted to a small plate attached to the loader frame.

 

[TopGear]

Hi Todddrummey

Thanks for the post. I've actually been in the US for a few weeks with work so haven't had a chance to start building the FEL yet. However I have managed to pick up a brand hydraulics open center controller for $150 which has made me very happy compared to prices back in oz! Anyway I'm home next week and plan to start building sometime in the next few weeks.

Any chance you could take some photo's and post of your hydraulic pump - showing mounting plate and maybe even some details of the pump? I'm still thinking I will go with the onboard hydraulics (keeps costs and complexity down) but a belt driven pump is attractive

Thanks again for your suggestions - its one I had not come across

Cheers John

 

[todddrummey]

John,

I will try to take a few pictures for you later this week.

 

[todddrummey]

Hi John,

I think I have attached a few pictures of the loader to this message. The subframe has two components; two heavy steal rails that run from the engine block back to the rear case which support the loader posts. Then there is a another piece mounted to the front bumper. Tubular support rods connect the top of the posts to the bumper. There is also a small tube and flange which supports the hydraulic pump. This is aligned so that the pump pulley lines up with the fan pulley on the engine.

Hope this helps

Todd

 

[TopGear]

Hi

Well thanks for the photos. They have been a real help. I've started building and have also had some luck. I picked up a B6000 subframe for $50 and also a 1.4m bucket. The subframe bolted straight on (30 bolts latter!) so has been a real find. I'm not sure what it was off as it has some strange connections - possibly not a loader however it looks super strong and ties in the back axles with the front frame. The bucket is 1.4m wide so I plan on cutting it down to around 1.1m width - the same or slightly larger than the rear wheels. I think its a BX bucket - previous user upgraded to a 4 way. Anyway these two parts have made the loader build so much simpler. A few pictures attached.


Also I plan on mounting the hydraulic control levers in a vertical position rather than a standard horizontal position - it will line up better with hose connections. Anyone see a problem with this? All the one's I have seen have been mounted horizontal.

More pictures to come soon.

 

[dusty-t]

Hey Topgear. That subframe sure looks strong enough. The fact that it ties into the rear axle housing is good. I see some of the newer tractors that don't have that and I always wondered why they don't. My b7200 has it. Anyway it's looking good so far. Keep us posted.

 

[TopGear]

Hi Vic

Yes I think I need my money back for that wax! It was like it when I brought it, but a respray is the next job after the loader build. I've already brought all the decals (some hard to find - like the pto speed one) and plan on following your article on respraying to make it look new

Just need to finish the loader first.

Cheers John

 

[TopGear]

A little progress. Just about completed the uprights which I made from 75x75x6.5 mm RHS which I had laying around. Figured I could go a little heavy here as its not being lifted and also made the mounting plate for control lever. Now moving onto the loader arms which I am building out of 75x50x4mm RHS.
I've been thinking about adding self - levelling arms but don't think its worth the hassle. Also its extra weight.

Any suggestions welcomed on design improvements!

 

[TopGear]

Well its starting to look like a loader now. Main arms are finished and I have mounted the main lift rams. I have also added cross bracing back to the front bumper. Seems to work well. Anyway next weekend I will add the bucket tilt rams and attachment pins to the bucket. They look like they should work fine. Getting close to having something workable soon