I have read about a hundred posts about safely hauling a tractor on a trailer and am convinced that I have the right chains, binders and trailer. What are the best tie down points on the L3800 tractor with FEL. I really don't want to go around the axles, and I don't know if you even could on the rear ones. The easiest are the front brush guard and the drawbar (not the 3 point one). Any reasons why these points should not be used.
L3800 Tie Down Points
- Thread starter oldenough
- Start date
When I trailer mine (L3200) I use a big clevis on the fixed drawbar and go two ways from it. On the front I use either the brush guard or the axle. PA also requires any implements also be tied down even though they are attached to the tractor. I use the heavier 3" binder straps.
Depends on how far I'm going wether I tie it on at all . But if going say 10 miles or so which is about as far as it will ever go . Just two 4" 30' straps one across the loader and one around the rear tires over the lower arms or implement .
If around the tires i hook it to the stack pocket just in front the fenders of the trailer so its pulling it to the front of the trailer . You can see in this pic loader and bushhog is all with straps .
Most the time say a mile or two don't tie if I do just one strap on the front .
If around the tires i hook it to the stack pocket just in front the fenders of the trailer so its pulling it to the front of the trailer . You can see in this pic loader and bushhog is all with straps .
Most the time say a mile or two don't tie if I do just one strap on the front .
Last edited:
I welded hooks on my bucket, we pull up to the front of the trailer connect the chain to two of the hooks and on each side of the trailer, then back up a bit to tighten the chain.
On the back I have a clevis on the drawbar, chain thru that, then we use a lever chain tightener.
It seems to work pretty good.
On the back I have a clevis on the drawbar, chain thru that, then we use a lever chain tightener.
It seems to work pretty good.
I have a rinkydink B6100 and I use a clevis on the draw bar with a chain and ratchet binder ALWAYS. The chain wont break as easily as a strap will.
In your case I'd put a clevis threw the draw bar with a chain and binder and another chain over the loader arms if it has a FEL.
I use straps that are designed to choke the axle in the front. In the rear i take the strap to a clevis in one of the holes in the frame on the bottom of the rops where it ties to the axle.is it right? I have no idea, but i like it better then rusty cold chain.
Attachments
Last edited:
Please consider this for what it's worth:
We QUIT using eccentric or 'break-over'-type chain binders and now use exclusively the ratchet type binders.
Few years ago I was using a cheater to tighten a break-over binder and the cheater slipped out of my wet gloves and went sailing through the air end-over-end, narrowly missed my spouse, and landed (I measured) 31-ft away.
I can't get a break-over tight enough without using a cheater and now I refuse to use a cheater on chain binders. If that chunk of 2-in pipe hits a person they're not just dinged up, they're badly damaged or cold dead. Or a truck glass or shop window or tractor cab or anything else. Not worth it.
I'm curious what others think. Please post your thoughts.
We QUIT using eccentric or 'break-over'-type chain binders and now use exclusively the ratchet type binders.
Few years ago I was using a cheater to tighten a break-over binder and the cheater slipped out of my wet gloves and went sailing through the air end-over-end, narrowly missed my spouse, and landed (I measured) 31-ft away.
I can't get a break-over tight enough without using a cheater and now I refuse to use a cheater on chain binders. If that chunk of 2-in pipe hits a person they're not just dinged up, they're badly damaged or cold dead. Or a truck glass or shop window or tractor cab or anything else. Not worth it.
I'm curious what others think. Please post your thoughts.
I use chain binders with ratchets equipment on a trailer must have two chains to move on public roads this is in Pa
. if you use cloth straps place a pad wherever the strap cross a sharp edge. the strap could be cut
. if you use cloth straps place a pad wherever the strap cross a sharp edge. the strap could be cut
I like the ratchet type better myself, but the only time I trailer mine is when my buddy needs me to do work for him and its his set up with the break overs and his trailer, so I just go with it.
We do seem to be able to get it pretty tight and I've not noticed any looseness in the chain when we go to take it off. He doesn't use a cheater pipe YET...but he is a couple years younger than me and still bullet proof.
I agree 110 percent about the ratchet binder. I use them on everything from the L3700 to D4 Cat. The break overs will kill you!!!
I was told to make sure I use chains... not straps for my L3800.
I go over the bucket arms and over the arms of the 3point. I find it best to adjust the bucket so you can go between the arms and the cylinder, so I don't stress the cylinder.
After strapping the L3800 down, I stop after 5 minutes of driving to check my chains. I find that the chains usually need to be re-tightened .
I go over the bucket arms and over the arms of the 3point. I find it best to adjust the bucket so you can go between the arms and the cylinder, so I don't stress the cylinder.
After strapping the L3800 down, I stop after 5 minutes of driving to check my chains. I find that the chains usually need to be re-tightened .
Last edited:
Same here brother. Chains on equipment and straps on loader and implements. I like the new holland shackle thingy that's bolted to the cram underneath. It's a nice feature.
Can anyone put some pictures up? I got a l4600 with a loader and backhoe and was having a heck of a time finding good points to chain to. Thanks
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
THis is on a BX25......it cost me 5 bucks.............ugly welds
but it ough to be easy enough to run a chain through! Got the D ring at Harbor Freight for $4.95.......two pieces of plate steel, 1/2 thick. 2 2" 1/2 grade 5 bolts.......hole were in the front already!
Attachments
With the loader and backhoe, you have natural tie down points. The next time I load up I will take a picture and post it.
Here are some pics of how I tie down the L3800 with the mower on the back and FEL on the front. You would do something similar with the BH on the back. Just lower the boom to the deck run the chain over the top of the boom.
Make sure you pass the chain under the pistons on the FEL. If you run in over the pistons you could damage them.
Remember to adjust the break-controller on your trailer. I have to readjust mine depending on if it empty or loaded.
Make sure you pass the chain under the pistons on the FEL. If you run in over the pistons you could damage them.
Remember to adjust the break-controller on your trailer. I have to readjust mine depending on if it empty or loaded.
Attachments
Last edited:
