GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
TG1860G weird engine running
- Thread starter FiveOrangesH14
- Start date
a few thoughts
could be fuel related but most likely related to the carburetor itself
in the top of the carb there is a little bitty air jet. Some of the air jets have a screw and a little bracket holding it down. Remove the jet. The orifice does not pass all the way through the jet, one side goes about 1/3 of the way through, as does the other. Clean that jet thoroughly. I like to use a piece of stripped elecrical wire to run through the orifices as best I can. That jet has a big effect on low speed running. More like huge effect.
yes could be fuel pump related as they do sometimes die. But I'd suggest doing a fuel flow test before you go much further. Get the engine running for a few seconds to fill up the carb bowl and then shut it off. Pull the fuel line that feeds the carb off of the fuel pump, stick a piece of line on it and run it into a jar. Crank the engine back up and see if you get a good flow. If it's a trickle, you're gonna want to find out where the restriction is, often at the tank outlet nipple or in the line itself somewhere. IF it flows good, it should run fine. Look at the bottom of the pump, if you see any evidence of weeping fuel, replace the pump before the leak gets bigger and burns the mower to the ground (pump sits right over the hot muffler....if it weeps, there is significant fire hazard).
could be fuel related but most likely related to the carburetor itself
in the top of the carb there is a little bitty air jet. Some of the air jets have a screw and a little bracket holding it down. Remove the jet. The orifice does not pass all the way through the jet, one side goes about 1/3 of the way through, as does the other. Clean that jet thoroughly. I like to use a piece of stripped elecrical wire to run through the orifices as best I can. That jet has a big effect on low speed running. More like huge effect.
yes could be fuel pump related as they do sometimes die. But I'd suggest doing a fuel flow test before you go much further. Get the engine running for a few seconds to fill up the carb bowl and then shut it off. Pull the fuel line that feeds the carb off of the fuel pump, stick a piece of line on it and run it into a jar. Crank the engine back up and see if you get a good flow. If it's a trickle, you're gonna want to find out where the restriction is, often at the tank outlet nipple or in the line itself somewhere. IF it flows good, it should run fine. Look at the bottom of the pump, if you see any evidence of weeping fuel, replace the pump before the leak gets bigger and burns the mower to the ground (pump sits right over the hot muffler....if it weeps, there is significant fire hazard).
Using a drill bit on a brass jet is a no go can leave scratches and enlarge the jet damaging it and compromising performance
I wasn't aware of an actual way to test these fuel pumps. I will be sure to try this tomorrow.
Would a wire from a brush be a better alternative then? I just got this drill bit from a kit when I bought another chinese knockoff carb for a B&S engine.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
The tip cleaners for oxy-act torches should be fine....
I use wire brush bristle as I can never figure out where I put the tip cleaner the last time.....
I've also got a couple nice dental picks .Also a snug, proper fitting,slot screwdriver to get jets out
old gas (aka varnish ) builds up on inside of gas lines,then,eventually flakes off and plugs up carb
I use wire brush bristle as I can never figure out where I put the tip cleaner the last time.....
I've also got a couple nice dental picks .Also a snug, proper fitting,slot screwdriver to get jets out
old gas (aka varnish ) builds up on inside of gas lines,then,eventually flakes off and plugs up carb
I personally do not recommend using any type of steel or stainless wire to clean brass jets. Too many of them have come through the shop which have had that treatment which resulted in enlarging the orifice, resulting in poor running. Drill bits are even worse. Hence the reason I suggested using a piece of copper electrical wire stripped back and using 1 or 2 strands of it, and I like to use some really fine stranded wire for this task. Copper won't enlarge the orifice nearly as readily as a steel wire will.
Just tested it to great results. Fuel was pumping with pulses but it was powerful. Unfortunately that means I haven’t found the issue.
Another update, I put on the chinese carb I ordered and put some new gaskets on to no idle change. I fixed a flooding bowl and still didn’t get it to idle any smoother. At this point I have no clue what is causing the rough idle. Fuel pressure it’s good and it shouldn’t be a vacuum leak with new gaskets. New carb so shouldn’t be an issue either.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I adjusted the valves but I am considering opening them back up in case I mis-adjusted them. Spark plugs could be in better shape and are technically the wrong ones (BPR5ES but specs say BPR4ES) but they fit and provide consistent adequate spark I would imagine.
Those gaskets are old ones.
I also lost a whole 1000 RPM from specified maximum RPM. Every “fix” I try to do just seems to make this mower run worse!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
hmm, pickin at straws now......but...
have you checked the key between flywheel and crankshaft ?
ON B&S ones, I unbolt the blower and CONFIRM it's not even slightly mushed as it controls timing. Slighly off,engine starts but won't perform as it should.
have you checked the key between flywheel and crankshaft ?
ON B&S ones, I unbolt the blower and CONFIRM it's not even slightly mushed as it controls timing. Slighly off,engine starts but won't perform as it should.
Donystoy
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
This looks like the 18 HP V twin water cooled Kawasaki engine on my John Deere 345. I had a similar issue with mine years ago which turned out to be the alignment between a valve and the rocker arm. You say you checked the valve adjustment so that can't be the issue. I seem to remember there been an issue with a plastic timing gear with these engines. Maybe go on a John Deere forum and enquire there or do a search. Thousands of these engines were used in the John Deere 345. The first ones were 18 hp and then upgraded to 20 hp.
Tomorrow I will look into those valves again and pray it’s not that plastic cam gear. That’s not a super hard job I’ve heard but this little garage space is gonna make it hard to keep track of everything. Just for confirmation, could I get some insight on how to adjust the valves just in case I did it incorrectly? I’m only 14 so I am not the most knowledgable for this stuff!
Valves will be rechecked first. Then I can look into the flywheel key. It could be this since my other equipment with a B&S had a flywheel issue.
is it just my blind eye or does that LH spark plug look like the gap is closed up?
I thought these things used BMR4A plugs, which are a lot shorter reach? Maybe I'm thinking of something else.
getting to the flywheel on these engines is a chore. Gotta pull the radiator, then the blower housing off. I've never seen a sheared key on these engines-ever. a few broken cam gears but typically when they break, it won't run at all and will have a whole lot of compression or none at all.
Just checked right now! You might be right.
This could be an issue I oversighted. Is there a way to fix the bend?