Hi, the saga continues with my L3240. I need to remove the backhoe to get to the rear transmission seal, but there's so much corrosion the pins are frozen. I've managed to free the pins' retention pins to try to rotate the pins themselves, but the pins aren't not budging. I've sprayed Liquid Wrench into all pin crevices and let sit overnight twice but I am unable to hit the pins squarely to drive them out with the rear wheels on. I've done my best to unload the pins with light upward pressure on the outriggers and the bucket, but I don't know of any tricks to determine when they're unweighted. My next step will be to remove the wheels so I can bang on the pins with a sledge. Failing that, I'll take out the torch and then bang some more. Any other tricks to unweight and free up those pins, preferably without removing the wheels?
frozen backhoe pins
- Thread starter meinnovations
- Start date
Keep putting oil on them. It's difficult to wiggle, tap on,drive,twist or otherwise attempt to move pins and remove tension at same time when working alone. I've had some success by cobbling up and clamping spring tension on pins while I pry and move arms looking for spot where pins aren't binding.
WD40 is the wrong stuff. Kroll, PB Blaster or parafin with diesel. Soak, tap. Patience.
When mine are stuck, I try to twist and at the same time work the bucket up and down to find the 'sweet spot'.
When mine are stuck, I try to twist and at the same time work the bucket up and down to find the 'sweet spot'.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
yes 50/50 of ACE + ATF, best choice' decades ago guy did a good controlled study on off the shelf and homemade 'oils' and ACE+ATF was the winner in both application and cost.
I usually gently heat the 'where it has to go end' to help getting the oil to migrate that way. heat end, apply oil, wait a bit repeat several times.
Also, if possible, try( gently ) to rotate the pins,a little, back and forth,more oil, more back and forth. A possible problem is the pins may have become 'egg shaped' ove rthe years of bang,bang,bang ?
I usually gently heat the 'where it has to go end' to help getting the oil to migrate that way. heat end, apply oil, wait a bit repeat several times.
Also, if possible, try( gently ) to rotate the pins,a little, back and forth,more oil, more back and forth. A possible problem is the pins may have become 'egg shaped' ove rthe years of bang,bang,bang ?
I'll use a long-handle pry bar on the retention pins for leverage. I don't put enough pressure on them that they'd bend, but enough that they'll move when I hit the sweet spot. Sometimes I'll need a 1x4 or 2x4 wedged in somewhere for leverage and to not scratch the purdy orange.
All above good ideas. Dont be afraid to weld a big nut on pins so you can work pins back and forth twisting after heating.Done lots of pins PBlaster is in the service truck. Before welding nuts ream the threads out to get more surface area for welds and remove plating. Good luck.
BFH also
BFH also
I've used an air chisel a few times with a pointed bit. Helps to have a dimple in the end of the pin to help keep the bit centered. If there's no dimple and the pin isn't too hard you can drill your own.
GBJeffOH
Active member
Equipment
L4060, EA Grapple, 6' LP Brush Hog, 8' snow plow, 6' LP tiller, EA Forks, Spraye
Put grease fittings on the yellow part. Then force PB Blaster or something in with a Grease Buster.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I have removed some large stuck cylinder pins from cranes, I would weld a long
bar to the pin and use a porta power, jack or another machine to rotate the
pin.
bar to the pin and use a porta power, jack or another machine to rotate the
pin.
I tried to take a pin out of hydraulic cylinder on my friend's tractor. If she ever greased them, it was very little and very seldom. I got the other cylinder off for a rebuild. but no amount of PB Blaster and a heavy hammer would budge that one pin. When I reinstalled the rebuilt cylinder, I greased all the pins, however that one pin would not take grease. I have plans to take a tool with me to use to press the pin out. I have high hopes that I can get it to budge.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
KROIl is best!
Kinda pricy though.
Spray it once every da.y
Spray,,,,,,, let it sit for a few hours
Wack it with 2lb hammer
When spray is still kinda wet
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Any conversation about disassembling "slip-fit" pins should include possible consequences of improper bigger hammer use. Over the years my day job required removal of many air conditioner fan blades from burnt out motors. Beating on end of shaft "will" swell the end making it impossible for hub to slide past. Never beat on pin while it's too hot to touch, much less red hot. Good use for torch is heating (expand) then allowing to cool (shrink) mimicking slight wiggle of joint .
Chanceywd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L2501DT BH77 VIRNIG URG60-CT 1950 8N WC-68
Along with spraying and getting the pressure off it with the stabilizers I wonder if you could carefully try a pickle fork/ball joint fork under the retainer pin area if you have one that is wide enough. Might get it to break loose that way?
I have a set of chisels for my air chisel that includes a couple larger area hammer heads I have used for driving on other things.
Just a passing thought , mine haven't got rusted like this yet.
Bill
I have a set of chisels for my air chisel that includes a couple larger area hammer heads I have used for driving on other things.
Just a passing thought , mine haven't got rusted like this yet.
Bill
On my BH77, once the backhoe is in the saddle/mount with the lower backhoe pins....I need to slightly raise my outriggers so that the backhoe is completely resting on those lower pins. Then using the boom & dipper to pivot the rest of the backhoe frame firmly up against the upper mounts....my pins will slip right in place. The same goes for removing my backhoe: without outriggers down, use the boom and dipper to pivot the hoe up against the upper mounts and the pins will be loose enough to slide out. Only then do I use the outriggers & boom to lift/pivot the hoe from its subframe to remove from tractor.
On my B2650, any use of the outriggers to try to add or remove the top pins will put enough pressure on them making removal impossible.
On my B2650, any use of the outriggers to try to add or remove the top pins will put enough pressure on them making removal impossible.
thats a lot of rust.
i would cut the retaining sliders off the pins. Those sliders will be of little help getting the pins out and with so much rust you be likely replacing the 2 pins anyways once you get them removed.
then with the retaining sliders off you will have lots of room to get a pipe wrench on the end of the pin. With some penetrating oil and a good pipe wrench I bet you can get those pins broken free and spinning.
Once free the major battle should be over. Grease and dipper stick to take pressure off you should be able to remove.
good luck. shouldn't be a difficult task to overcome.
i would cut the retaining sliders off the pins. Those sliders will be of little help getting the pins out and with so much rust you be likely replacing the 2 pins anyways once you get them removed.
then with the retaining sliders off you will have lots of room to get a pipe wrench on the end of the pin. With some penetrating oil and a good pipe wrench I bet you can get those pins broken free and spinning.
Once free the major battle should be over. Grease and dipper stick to take pressure off you should be able to remove.
good luck. shouldn't be a difficult task to overcome.