frozen backhoe pins

[jaxs]

In case my comment "First I'll do no harm" didn't ring a bell, correct me if I'm wrong.
Is it not a given pin can only move in one direction,that being in direction which porta power is pushing in post #21?
If it were possible to remove pin without removing retainer, the retainer would serve no purpose. Point being those teeth marks from pipe wrench will not allow pin to pass through bore after pin is freed up.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

All my suggestions have been posted.

However; I will say that this post reminds me to remove my BH77 and lube everything.....Cause it has been a while since it was removed.

 

[jaxs]

As they say "a stitch in time saves nine".

 

[GreensvilleJay]

if (IF ) you do get the pins freed up using the pipe wrench rotator, you can use a file to smooth the pins and they should pop out, providing the ends haven't mushroomed from the BFH.....

sad thing is I'd rather work on 2 pins than having to clear paths to 20 windows being replaced here on friday.....

 

[Tughill Tom]

Pro tip#1 Never seize before seizing.

 

[lugbolt]

I've had this happen.

gotta remove the tires. Period. Not enough access with them still on.

then torch a hole through the center. the heat will slightly shrink the pin as it cools back to ambient temp, and they'll usually just fall out

tried everything else and couldn't get them to move, rusted, stuck, bonded to each other, whatever ya call it

coworker used to drill the end and tap it, and then had some kind of pullin tool that he used to yank them out. All thread for the puller, but the part that the nut fit against was something I haven't seen before or since. I think he said it was some kind of outboard tool used for pressing (or pulling) bearings out of a lower unit. I tried it with a piece of pipe and caved the pipe in, but in my own defense, it was just exhaust tubing so it wasn't much.

a funny story. I installed a backhoe on one of the grand L's many years ago and the buyer threw a fit because he kept getting grease on him every time he took the backhoe off. I grease those pins, every single time I put them in. You can't please anyone it seems. He wouldn't be griping because the pins were rusted into the subframe, he'd probably just lose his mind. But people don't ever realize that.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I've been having some chronic trouble with rusty door hinge pins on a 40' hi-cube shipping container.
I have tried every commercial rust buster/penetrating oil product on the market.
Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and several others. Also ATF, motor oil, and gear lube.

The only thing that has helped free up those rusty hinge pins is a homemade mix of Ed's Red.
Equal parts of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid. (50%/50%)
In my case, I had Lowe's Home Improvement store Acetone, and Dexron II ATF in stock in my shop.
You can actually see the Ed's Red "wick" into the rusty hinge pivot point.

It's better, but still not what I want/need. You shouldn't need to break a sweat opening a container door.
It is on my list for things to do this year.
My plan is to drill & tap the hinges for grease fittings, and grease them at least once per year.

 

[chim]

I like the idea of slicing the pins into 3 pieces if you have access to do that. The backhoe would detach and some of the 6 pieces would fall out. The remaining pieces should be easy to drive out because there's nothing to bind them, plus there would only be one corroded interface at a time to deal with.

The portapower route would have concerned me. If you overdo it with a casting - SNAP. If you overdo it on steel, as you saw it'll bend.

 

[lugbolt]

Here's the deal with stuck pins, no matter what they are. Same for Polaris bushings and sleeves, bolt gets stuck in them and you have to cut them out.

All the penetrating oil you can buy won't penetrate enough when they get "that" stuck. The two parts are basically welded together at that point, and the rust/corrosion is what "welds" them together. They are now one part. In order for penetrating fluids to work, they have to get between the two parts, which is often impossible because the two parts are one. If it can't get in there it can't penetrate as it's supposed to.

Kind of like guys trying to clean carburetors with seafoam. If the jet(s) won't allow anything through, they won't clean out. I've learned 30 some odd years ago that if it ain't running right just take it apart and fix the clog. Now sometimes that can be "fun" depending on what you're working on--and the worst are some of the Yamaha 40 & 50hp 4 cylinder outboards. If you have done them and succeeded, pat yourself on the back because they are a pain in the backside!!!!

now I don't know about yall but if it won't move with a portapower, the two parts are basically one, so you have mimimal choices. Cut it apart (if you have room to get a blade in between the parts) or torch it out as two folks have eluded to earlier. I like to work smart and not hard, so I usually torch them out if possible. Once you get a hole cut through it, let it cool...a lot of times the heat will shrink the pin and it'll let go enough that you can just slide it out.

 

[notforhire]

No new suggestions.
Just wondering if OP has ever taken the backhoe off, or was it mounted when he bought the tractor?
I bought a brand new backhoe that had (badly) misaligned mounting brackets from the factory. Kubota replaced it.
Could it be that the pins were driven into a slightly misaligned bracket on day one???