yes yes, i am in agreement, i knew it was big mistake, even @dragfan66 i think said it about 30 pages ago, it make the statement true:
"if you put it back together without full intent on sealing, 100% chance of multiple leak"
let me take picture of the oil level
yes, oil level from 15-20 hours break in engine, oil level was at full mark one month ago when break in start, i show you the oil leak:
Yes, rear main leak, going into bell housing, plan to fix:
talk to dinosaur about splitting tractor, rig up those "pull away" ratcheting, "tag a long" apparatus
come up with low cost setup that would split tractor safely using maybe some kind of cart that each heavy component,
fall onto the cart, and I have pullers pulling it in one direction, then get in there and do the surgery, no touch of front of engine (radiator, head, everything pretty much)
The problem is I have jobs waiting and need the machine, run it for few months, zero chance i can afford to fix that leak now..
yes, here is shop layout now, plan:
move everything away not being used, bring 3 pallet for the area of body/wire wheel/clean/paint
I try to capture all the parts that go back onto the tractor, all of them need:
gather them and bring them to the pallet setup, instantly hit them air/diesel/absrasive
simply: clean shop floor, bring pallets, bring all body parts, do body work while thinking about the start/glowplug control, and rig up big wire and big battery, and see if alternator can charge
yes, full blown cold start: only thing i did before video: glowplug for 2 minute, and crank 20 seconds no compression to prime line, instant start
yes, let the engine keep idle, bring pallet close to work area, bring all part to finish tractor assembly
damage to factory hood: ripped out front bracket metal, both side
tires are better on tractor with more hour, gonna use those, more parts ready for clean/hammer/paint
The seat: its not that bad, i would like to salvage and save $, the only problem is it cut skin from the sharp plastic
maybe someone know how to how cover it with something, fasten it with washers with self tap in...
for now: let engine idle, start clean everything with air/diesel/abrasive/file/everything
hammer things back into place, consider the plan to weld front hood tore connection area, also
can make progress on battery/holder/air filter/alternator charging/glow plug and start controls
idle for 2 hour, 40 psi oil pressure steady, not shutting off, idle adjustment could go in a tiny bit,
also show you: start clean all body part with compress air and nice chisel, and
the weld job needed for hood damage
now: get clean bucket diesel, get nice big brush, brush diesel everything, hit with front face wire wheel, get more solvent, hit with solvent, hit with air
yes, in this clip, after she idle 3 hour, never shut off, I was doing cleaning body
oil pressure getting below 40 and she not shutting off, after video, she choked out from too little diesel
then, i make adjustment, tiny bit i turn that adjustment inward, get her running, now less see saw
caught on camera is when engine sink into that low and even pace
it has a slight whisle/chooch when it is in that state
15-20 hour break in, and adjusted the idle maybe 25 time so far
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