BX2200 Won't stay running

[OrangeJoe3]

Have a BX2200 that will not stay running. Only runs if you hold the key all the way to the right and once you let go it shuts off.
First thing that was tried was to replace the fuel shut off solenoid since the original one blew the back open. Replaced and tried it still continued. After some more research came to the conclusion that the ignition switch was the issue. Replaced and wired up the issue continues. Took the starter out and had it tested and that was still operating correctly but the innards were being worn down so they were replaced. Issue still continues. I am a bit lost now. Any suggestions or avenues that I should consider investigating more would be great.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Would really need to see the wiring diagram.
Some engine stop when power is applied to a 'fuel shut off' valve, others send a power pulse to stop engine.
it sounds like whatever is powered in the 'start' position loses power when in 'run' and kills the engine

 

[OrangeJoe3]

Would really need to see the wiring diagram.
Some engine stop when power is applied to a 'fuel shut off' valve, others send a power pulse to stop engine.
it sounds like whatever is powered in the 'start' position loses power when in 'run' and kills the engine

I had not even thought about walking the wire down from the ignition. Thanks for the thought.

 

[Henro]

I had not even thought about walking the wire down from the ignition. Thanks for the thought.

The BX2200 has a fuel cut off solenoid with two coils. One is Energized as soon as the key is turned to the on position. The other one is energized when you turn the key full to the right to activate the starter.

These are called the start coil and the run coil. You need the start coil to be energized in order to activate the fuel cut off solid mechanically. The hold (or run) coil is energized all the time that the key is on, and is only strong enough to hold the fuel cut off solenoid in position after the run coil has physically moved it.

YOU REALLY NEED TO UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR THAT FEEDS POWER TO THE FUEL CUT OFF SOLENOID AND MEASURE VOLTAGE ON THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE CONNECTOR. WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON ONE OF THOSE WIRES SHOULD HAVE VOLTAGE ON IT THE IMMEDIATELY. THE OTHER WIRE SHOULD ONLY HAVE VOLTAGE ON IT WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY TO THE START POSITION.

SORRY ABOUT ALL THE CAPS. FOR SOME REASON, MY IPAD JUST PUT EVERYTHING IN THAT PARAGRAPH AS all caps AND I DON’T WANNA GO BACK AND RETYPE IT. (Just happened again )

If you find one wire has voltage all the time and voltage only appears on the other wire when you turn the key to the start position, then you likely have a problem with the new fuel cut off solenoid.

The issue you describe is exactly what happens when either you’re not getting voltage to the hold (run) coil on the fuels cut off solenoid, or the (new in your case) fuel cut off solenoid hold (run) coil is defective.

The workshop manual for the BX 2200 is available at KubotaBooks.com for free download and it includes the wiring diagram/schematic that you need.

That manual covers both the BX 1800 and BX 2200. It’s confusing. Ignore the part marked for the D722 engine and use the D905 part of the drawing, which applies to the BX 2200.

A few years ago, I went down the same road with my BX2200…

 

[ehenry]

I had this very thing happen to my BX22. The issue I found was under the seat and no clue how it happened.

Under the seat are two wires, one with a female and the other with a male connector, that are for a rear light. Some how they made contact with one another and it caused the exact thing you are describing.

No clue if those wires are under the seat of a BX2200. If not, start chasing with wiring looking for shorts.

Also, make sure the fuel pump under the is functioning.

 

[Henro]

One detail I forgot about is that the voltage to the start coil is supplied through the starter. Since your engine starts until you release the key this part of the circuit should be functioning normally I expect.

EDIT: I JUST NOTICED THE BX1800 circuitry is also shown on this drawing which is confusing. Ignore the D722 solenoid and the timer relay. They don’t exist on the BX2200.

 

[Henro]

Better marked drawing…

 

[DustyRusty]

Henro, please get your act together before posting. It is difficult enough trying to understand you posts without having all those "disregards" in them. Thanks the grumpy old guy.

 

[Henro]

Henro, please get your act together before posting. It is difficult enough trying to understand you posts without having all those "disregards" in them. Thanks the grumpy old guy.

Sounds like it might be time for a cognitive test…

 

[OrangeJoe3]

The BX2200 has a fuel cut off solenoid with two coils. One is Energized as soon as the key is turned to the on position. The other one is energized when you turn the key full to the right to activate the starter.

These are called the start coil and the run coil. You need the start coil to be energized in order to activate the fuel cut off solid mechanically. The hold (or run) coil is energized all the time that the key is on, and is only strong enough to hold the fuel cut off solenoid in position after the run coil has physically moved it.

YOU REALLY NEED TO UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR THAT FEEDS POWER TO THE FUEL CUT OFF SOLENOID AND MEASURE VOLTAGE ON THE TWO WIRES ATTACHED TO THE CONNECTOR. WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON ONE OF THOSE WIRES SHOULD HAVE VOLTAGE ON IT THE IMMEDIATELY. THE OTHER WIRE SHOULD ONLY HAVE VOLTAGE ON IT WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY TO THE START POSITION.

SORRY ABOUT ALL THE CAPS. FOR SOME REASON, MY IPAD JUST PUT EVERYTHING IN THAT PARAGRAPH AS all caps AND I DON’T WANNA GO BACK AND RETYPE IT. (Just happened again )

If you find one wire has voltage all the time and voltage only appears on the other wire when you turn the key to the start position, then you likely have a problem with the new fuel cut off solenoid.

The issue you describe is exactly what happens when either you’re not getting voltage to the hold (run) coil on the fuels cut off solenoid, or the (new in your case) fuel cut off solenoid hold (run) coil is defective.

The workshop manual for the BX 2200 is available at KubotaBooks.com for free download and it includes the wiring diagram/schematic that you need.

That manual covers both the BX 1800 and BX 2200. It’s confusing. Ignore the part marked for the D722 engine and use the D905 part of the drawing, which applies to the BX 2200.

A few years ago, I went down the same road with my BX2200…

Thanks Henro for the info. I tried testing the two wires and I got voltage to one wire in the on position. Then starting the tractor it still maintain voltage. The second wire I tested in the on position no voltage. Then during start position it did show voltage. With the information you provided and with the results I got it sounds like the solenoid may be faulty?

Joe

 

[Henro]

Thanks Henro for the info. I tried testing the two wires and I got voltage to one wire in the on position. Then starting the tractor it still maintain voltage. The second wire I tested in the on position no voltage. Then during start position it did show voltage. With the information you provided and with the results I got it sounds like the solenoid may be faulty?

Joe

Sure sounds like it may be.

If I remember correctly, the connector at the fuel cut off solenoid has two wires. If so, that means the electrical current that flows through each of the coils in the solenoid returns to ground through the body of the solenoid which is connected to the engine. Since the tractor starts, this indicates that the connection to ground is good.

I would measure the resistance of each wire at the connector with respect to the body of the solenoid. I don’t know what the resistance value should be. But chances are good that the wire that receives voltage all the time as soon as you turn the key on, will have higher resistance, than the other wire, which only receives voltage when you turn the key to the start position.

I would speculate that the coil that receives voltage as soon as the key is turned on would have higher resistance, than the start coil, since the start coil has to magnetically pull on the solenoid, armature with more force than the run coil needs to provide to hold the armature in the operating position.

You might find the run coil is actually open. If so, this would be the best result because you would know for sure that the solenoid is bad.

BUT THINKING ABOUT IT, I think what I would do at this point is remove the solenoid from the injector pump and watch it when I turn the key to the on position. You already know the start part of the coil works so there is no need to worry about that coil. So you can get some information without starting the engine and then needing to physically hold the fuel cut off solid back in position to stop the engine.

The way I would test it is turn the key to the on position and then physically push the solenoid armature inwards. If you do this before you turn the key to the on position, the plunger (armature) will move in and a spring will push it right back out. Then, if you turn the key to the on position and push the armature in, it should stay held in and not come back out until you turn the key to the off position.

If you decide to do this test, you need to be sure that you have a jumper between the solenoid case and the injector pump housing, the engine block or the negative battery terminal.

Why don’t you try one (or more) of these suggestions and report back?

 

[OrangeJoe3]

Sure sounds like it may be.

If I remember correctly, the connector at the fuel cut off solenoid has two wires. If so, that means the electrical current that flows through each of the coils in the solenoid returns to ground through the body of the solenoid which is connected to the engine. Since the tractor starts, this indicates that the connection to ground is good.

I would measure the resistance of each wire at the connector with respect to the body of the solenoid. I don’t know what the resistance value should be. But chances are good that the wire that receives voltage all the time as soon as you turn the key on, will have higher resistance, than the other wire, which only receives voltage when you turn the key to the start position.

I would speculate that the coil that receives voltage as soon as the key is turned on would have higher resistance, than the start coil, since the start coil has to magnetically pull on the solenoid, armature with more force than the run coil needs to provide to hold the armature in the operating position.

You might find the run coil is actually open. If so, this would be the best result because you would know for sure that the solenoid is bad.

BUT THINKING ABOUT IT, I think what I would do at this point is remove the solenoid from the injector pump and watch it when I turn the key to the on position. You already know the start part of the coil works so there is no need to worry about that coil. So you can get some information without starting the engine and then needing to physically hold the fuel cut off solid back in position to stop the engine.

The way I would test it is turn the key to the on position and then physically push the solenoid armature inwards. If you do this before you turn the key to the on position, the plunger (armature) will move in and a spring will push it right back out. Then, if you turn the key to the on position and push the armature in, it should stay held in and not come back out until you turn the key to the off position.

If you decide to do this test, you need to be sure that you have a jumper between the solenoid case and the injector pump housing, the engine block or the negative battery terminal.

Why don’t you try one (or more) of these suggestions and report back?

Well I tested the resistance, when in on position the wire that had resistance went and became an OL reading while the other wire had a low resistance.

The solenoid when in the on position the armature did was held and did not release. Once turned off it did release the armature.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I've reviewed the BX2200 wiring diagram in Kubota Books and concur with Henro. (The diagram does show a 3 wire connector on the solenoid, one being the ground.) Your problem almost certainly is in this area.

Please tell when this started acting this way. Was it operating normally since you've owned it? Did something happen about the time this started acting up?

Does the solenoid rod extend or retract when powered? If it retracts, the tractor should start with the solenoid removed.

BTW, are you giving it plenty of throttle when you're cranking it?

 

[Henro]

Well I tested the resistance, when in on position the wire that had resistance went and became an OL reading while the other wire had a low resistance.

The solenoid when in the on position the armature did was held and did not release. Once turned off it did release the armature.

That is not correct operation. The solenoid should not move until you turn the key to the start position, and then should stay in that position until the key is turned to the off position.

Im not sure I understand exactly how you measured resistance. Please be more specific. What scale were you using for resistance measurement? Did you have a jumper between the solenoid case and the engine block and so on…

There is one important caveat here. It has been reported over the years that some of the last BX 2200 made were produced with the wiring set up of the following model which I believe was the BX 2230. If this happens to be the case with your tractor, there may be a timer relay involved, making this discussion based on the schematic diagram of the BX 2200, as initially produced, invalid.

I will check my BX2200 to verify my memory is correct. If your connector uses three wires this might indicate it could’ve been one of the last in the production run.

Also, does the connector at the solenoid have three wires or two? If three wires, it could indicate that the wiring is different than the diagram I posted. That diagram does match MY BX2200, aside from mine having a two wire connector ( and after removing pieces related to the BX 1800). But it could be the BX1800 has a three wire connector. Confusion that results from using one drawing for two tractors that are different somewhat electrically.

 

[Henro]

I've reviewed the BX2200 wiring diagram in Kubota Books and concur with Henro. (The diagram does show a 3 wire connector on the solenoid, one being the ground.) Your problem almost certainly is in this area.

Please tell when this started acting this way. Was it operating normally since you've owned it? Did something happen about the time this started acting up?

Does the solenoid rod extend or retract when powered? If it retracts, the tractor should start with the solenoid removed.

BTW, are you giving it plenty of throttle when you're cranking it?

The OPP reporter that the engine runs until he releases the key from the start position.

The BX2200 solenoid retracts in order for the engine to run, and is spring loaded to extend when power is removed from it to shut the engine down. The engine could be started with the solenoid removed, but to stop the engine the solenoid would have to be held back in place or something else would have to push in on the rack inside the injector pump to shut the engine down.

Also, in the test he did he stated that the solenoid armature retracts the moment he turned the key to the on position. And I believe he said it stays retracted until he turns the key in the off position. This doesn’t make sense because if that were the case, then the engine would run until the key was turned to the off position, but he reports it runs only until he releases the key from the start position.

I agree it seems like it’s time for a review by the OP stating exactly what’s going on, just to make sure we are all on the same page in our understanding.

 

[Henro]

DustyRusty is right! I should know better than trust my memory! I found a picture of my original fuel cut off solenoid that failed that clearly shows the connector has three points. where wires could be connected.

I did mess with the old one after replacing it, so perhaps I found only two wires are connected to the connector, but I don’t know for sure now… in any event, the third wire would be connected to ground, and we know that part of the circuit works since the tractor starts, and stops running when the key is released from the start position.

 

[OrangeJoe3]

Want to thank everyone with your help, I had to put it on the back burner for a minute and well I got out voted and the rest of the family thought it would get done quicker to have the local lawn and garden tractor repair take a look.

 

[Henro]

Want to thank everyone with your help, I had to put it on the back burner for a minute and well I got out voted and the rest of the family thought it would get done quicker to have the local lawn and garden tractor repair take a look.

And the result was? …do report back!

 

[OrangeJoe3]

And the result was? …do report back!

The fuel shutoff solenoid was wired backwards. Got it back and it is running strong and starts right up.

 

[New to BX2200 & need help]

I had this very thing happen to my BX22. The issue I found was under the seat and no clue how it happened.

Under the seat are two wires, one with a female and the other with a male connector, that are for a rear light. Some how they made contact with one another and it caused the exact thing you are describing.

No clue if those wires are under the seat of a BX2200. If not, start chasing with wiring looking for shorts.

Also, make sure the fuel pump under the is functioning.

Please tell me how unresolved this. Like an idiot not knowing what I was doing, I found these same wires disconnected under the seat of my dad’s BX2200 and connected them trying to get the run signals to work. Well it didn’t energize the two new turns signal lights and now I believe it caused this problem where the engine stalls as soon as Key is released.
How did you resolve your problem this instance? Thanks so much for any help!!

I removed the solenoid valve and attempted to start it. While holding the solenoid and engaging the key, the engine started and continued to run with key released. I noticed the piston on the solenoid did retract when it started and popped back out after key was released. I think this is normal, but not sure.had to reinstall the solenoid to get the engine to stop as it did not shut off (with solenoid pulled) when turning key to off position.

How did you fix this issue after making the connection of the wires under your seat? I think we have the same issue.