Buying neighbors 2017 B2650

[RCW]

Just because the dealer doesn’t have any records of service doesn’t mean it hasn’t been serviced. My dealer would have no records of service on my tractor because I do it all myself. Many tractor owners do their own.

I agree with BAP - - many of us do our own service. The little Kubotas are pretty simple.

Check the motor oil and hydraulic filters -- are they painted a dark grey like the frame? If so, they are probably the same ones from the factory.

If not grey, are they Kubota brand (my preference)? Do they have a date and/or hours on them?

I think service interval would recommend hydraulic filter change only at 50 hours, and filter and fluid at either 200 or 400 hours.

Motor oil and filter changes would likely be recommended at least a couple/few times in 335 hours/7 years.

Next, check the dipsticks - - are they full and how does the oil and fluid look? Diesels will darken motor oil in a couple/few hours. My SUDT2 hydraulic fluid is still clean and clear at almost 200 hours.

Use a clean white rag to check color of fluids.

Does the fuel filter element look clean? (I think filter housing is translucent?)

Is there excess grease around loader grease zerks? (Good thing versus no grease might indicate never greased)

Is there fluid in the front axle (notoriously omitted in pre-delivery inspections)?

All that said, if I were to buy it, I would do a complete service (myself) of all fluids, filters, etc. so I would have a good base line.

Sounds like a great price. Lot of folks here on OTT have B2650 and really like them. Great machines.

Good luck.

 

[nbryan]

If it's incondition as well detailed by RCW above me here then $12,000 is a steal for this equipment you're looking at.

 

[old and tired]

Buying from neighbors?? Do him right, give him $12,500 and don't nickle and dime him to death...

It's worth more than that....

 

[RCW]

Buying from neighbors?? Do him right, give him $12,500 and don't nickle and dime him to death...

It's worth more than that....

There's something to be said for that.

I wouldn't throw $$ at a machine if there was a bona fide chance it was in poor condition.

That said, I honestly considered if I would want to trailer it from Maine to Central New York, because I could really use it.

 

[Scotty123]

I wish I'd thought to add $500 to the check...I'll find some other way to make it up to him. Heading into harvest season so I might not get the chance to do much more than check the fluids and the fuel and air filters. I'll attempt a followup when I take a good look. Should work well as a backup to our Mahindra 3215 and I'm guessing 'da wife' will find it a more comfortable tractor to use.
Great info and advice guys. Thanks

 

[biketopia]

I wish I'd thought to add $500 to the check...I'll find some other way to make it up to him. Heading into harvest season so I might not get the chance to do much more than check the fluids and the fuel and air filters. I'll attempt a followup when I take a good look. Should work well as a backup to our Mahindra 3215 and I'm guessing 'da wife' will find it a more comfortable tractor to use.
Great info and advice guys. Thanks

You got a good deal, you'll enjoy that machine! Keep it lubed and serviced and she'll give many years of service.

 

[Scotty123]

bit of a followup. I did purchase the b2650. worked out as the prior owner (80 years old) is often our part time help, thus, no problem with his using the machine.
Currently, we have a 800lb. 50 gallon sprayer on the back. Makes the front feel light. Any ideas how much weight I should/can add to the front?

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Congratulations on the B. I sure use mine a lot.

I am not sure you are on flat or hilly terrain, but you have a couple options:

1. Add some front weights or leave loader and bucket on…if still not enough could add dirt or gravel in the bucket for some front ballast.

2. For me and my situation (hilly) I like 600ish lbs on the 3 pt when doing loader work. I understood you are asking about rear weight(liquid to spray)…I think 600ish lbs is a good start which would be roughly 25% less full on your tank if I understood.

I would caution to be careful of sloshing…the B may not like that especially in challenging terrain. Also be aware if using front weight, when you run out of fluid that you spray the situation will be reversed on your return trip if dealing with challenging terrain…may have to change your travel path or reverse direction or drop some front weight and come back to get it. (I am referencing my use which is hilly and that may not all be applicable for you).

I am not sure that helps but maybe give you some ideas.

With liquids think as slow as possible and as fast as necessary. keep the rubber side down. Good luck.

 

[Scotty123]

Thanks. Gives me something to think on.
Hooking the 5' bucket to the loader arms seem to give me enough front weight...so I'll check to see what the bucket weighs and go looking for suitcase weights. (the bucket extends the overall length and makes the turnaround at the end of the rows difficult).
As to slope, I should look for one of those angle finders to see what I'm doing on the side hill turn around.

 

[PaulL]

Although I'm not a fan of loading tires in many cases, your case does sound like loaded fronts would help quite a bit. It's keeps the weight lower, and I suspect would give less issue between full and empty sprayer - not entirely sure why I feel that but I do. Suitcase weights will also increase your pitching a bit - weight out the front and out the back, loaded wheels (or, I guess, wheel weights) should just plant the front without levering as much. Conversely, you need a bit more weight without that lever....