What's the right implement for the L2501 for driveway resurfacing/grading?

[jyoutz]

That's the thing. I need to get under the pot holes. So having the scarifiers is a must to break it up. I don't think a rear grading blade will do that unless there is down pressure or adding significant weight to the blade.

My brother has a box blade. Not sure the size of his though. It may be too small width wise for the L2501. I'm looking at 66" width. It's a tough decision because I want to be able to use it for multiple things...you know make it worth the money. It's already mid November and getting frost lately so repairing the drive way this late in the year isn't with it. But when spring comes and the frost melts, I definitely will be in the market then.

Worse case scenario I can dig it up with the bucket, I'm sure the L2501 won't have too much of a fuss with it. But the biggest thing is the sides, water can't go anywhere so it's there. My goal was to scrap the sides down and give the drive way a crown. Either way it will be a good learning experience haha. I need seat time. I learn quick with this stuff so I'm pretty confident I can do a good job if I take my time.

Crowning and ditching is where the rear blade excels over the box blade. Heck, just get both.

 

[nerwin]

Crowning and ditching is where the rear blade excels over the box blade. Heck, just get both.

That would be ideal to be honest.

 

[biketopia]

Crowning and ditching is where the rear blade excels over the box blade. Heck, just get both.

I think they both do pretty well in those instances where there's not necessarily a clear winner, at least for the casual compact tractor operator. Someone who uses it everyday...totally different story, a skilled operator is a sight to see!

I'm all in for the more the merrier when it comes to implements though hah! I did just fine with my driveway and the box as it was the first thing I could get. When we moved in I needed to do a lot of dirt work and fix the road that hadn't been maintained in half a dozen years.

OP I'd suggest watching a bunch of videos of the various rear attachments and see them in action.

 

[nerwin]

I think they both do pretty well in those instances where there's not necessarily a clear winner, at least for the casual compact tractor operator. Someone who uses it everyday...totally different story, a skilled operator is a sight to see!

I'm all in for the more the merrier when it comes to implements though hah! I did just fine with my driveway and the box as it was the first thing I could get. When we moved in I needed to do a lot of dirt work and fix the road that hadn't been maintained in half a dozen years.

OP I'd suggest watching a bunch of videos of the various rear attachments and see them in action.

Watching videos on this tractor and all the implements is all I been doing for the last 2 weeks hahaha. I even dream about this stuff

Just trying to fill my head with knowledge. Just watching skilled operators on these is really helpful watching how they use the loader or a box blade/land plane.

The most affordable ones seem to be the Box Blade. The grading blade doesn't seem to be extremely expensive either. They are commonly found on the used market too.

 

[Old Machinist]

By now I guess you know that a combination of implements is ideal. BUT if you want one tool that can do it all I would have to settle for a grader blade. You can angle and pitch a grader blade to crown and eliminate washboard in one motion. It doesn't work as well as a box blade for moving high spots to low but with enough passes you can make it happen. I would look for at least a 7 footer but not the County Line brand. I have seen too many of those bend from lack of reinforcement on the blade.

If you find one that has pitch and angle adjustments those are great but expensive. They all have the ability to angle. You can pitch it side to side with the 3 point leveling arm.

I also don't like the ones that have a slot to offset them. I have one and it loosens and will slide all the way out and tilt when you don't want it to when angled. It stays put when pulling it in the straight position fine. Mine is small and was bought for a smaller tractor. The last time I finished with it I tightened the bolts with my 1" impact but never tested it after that to see if they will hold. I mainly use my box blade and landscape rake combo.

Watch some of the you tube videos on the different implements suggested here and see what fits your needs best. All of them will take practice and learning on your part but videos of other peoples experience can shorten the learning curve.

 

[nerwin]

By now I guess you know that a combination of implements is ideal. BUT if you want one tool that can do it all I would have to settle for a grader blade. You can angle and pitch a grader blade to crown and eliminate washboard in one motion. It doesn't work as well as a box blade for moving high spots to low but with enough passes you can make it happen. I would look for at least a 7 footer but not the County Line brand. I have seen too many of those bend from lack of reinforcement on the blade.

If you find one that has pitch and angle adjustments those are great but expensive. They all have the ability to angle. You can pitch it side to side with the 3 point leveling arm.

I also don't like the ones that have a slot to offset them. I have one and it loosens and will slide all the way out and tilt when you don't want it to when angled. It stays put when pulling it in the straight position fine. Mine is small and was bought for a smaller tractor. The last time I finished with it I tightened the bolts with my 1" impact but never tested it after that to see if they will hold. I mainly use my box blade and landscape rake combo.

Watch some of the you tube videos on the different implements suggested here and see what fits your needs best. All of them will take practice and learning on your part but videos of other peoples experience can shorten the learning curve.

The bigger issue with that is it's not gonna dig down below the pot holes I assume. Unless I rip up the drive way with the bucket and then use the rear blade to smooth it out and crown it after. I see some folks add cylinders in the rear for down pressure but that would be expensive lol.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

option. 1.
hire a bulldozer operator for an hour or two.after that drag chains over it once/twice a month.

option 2
make a road grader (google cub cadet road grader )..

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just so that you know, the cylinders people typically install on a 3pt hitch are top & tilt cylinders. They provide hydraulic adjustment for the top & side links.
They are not designed to provide any downward pressure.

Regarding any implement that you purchase for grading purposes, try to get something that is 100Lbs per foot of width. Heavier is better. Here is what I consider the perfect box blade for your tractor.

Biggest downfall is the cost, but you get what you pay for.

 

[jimh406]

It's not that hard to break up potholes. I fix those in the community road. You lower a scarifier and drive in a zig-zag pattern until it breaks up. I usually do all of them in a section. Then, I raise the scarifier and make passes until the road looks good to me.

Fwiw, I rarely use more than one scarifier at a time unless the road is really washboarded.

You can't do a dramatic crown with a grader/scraper. However, you can adjust the angle of the blade about an inch or so.