Wheel Spacers…need source advice

[WI_Hedgehog]

Thank you for the reply. I wound up buying (4) 2" rear Jeep spacers (only) and torque sticks for slightly less than the Bro-Tek 4" spacers. I'll rattle-gun them on and off as needed in similar time as I'm currently doing wheel swaps by hand. Thanks again!

 

[Henro]

Not sure what a torque stick is.

BUT I would’ve expected that four of those jeep spacers would have cost less than 50% of what the Brotech 4 inch spacers cost.

For slightly less than the Brotech price, I would’ve gone with Brotech myself.

Of course, you now have the option of cutting back to half the 4” width if you want to in the future.

Don’t forget to use blue Loctite when you attach the spacers to your wheel hub, and the spacer to the spacer. You don’t have access to check Torque on the bolts/nuts later.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

A torque stick is put on the end of an impact gun to limit the amount of force imparted to the nut, getting "close enough" to the torque specification to get the job done. I think the torque tolerance is usually within 10%, which is generally "close enough" given the other factors affecting torque accuracy.

Since I change wheels twice every 3 weeks I don't plan to use threadlocker and will continue to torque 20% lower than spec. to not stretch the bolts/studs; based on 30 years experience as a desk jockey doing computer work this seems perfectly acceptable.

In that 30 years experience doing automotive customizing on the side I didn't put fasteners on using air tools (and used a torque wrench on most everything), but as a highly repeatable time savings measure an impact wrench seems useful here as the torque sticks accuracy can be verified with a torque wrench up front and also periodically over time.

Spacers: $110 (for four)
Torque Sticks: $70
Something nice for the girlfriend: $120
Total: $300

Bro-Tek 4" Rear Wheel Spacers: $280
Shipping: $30
Total: $310

 

[Henro]

In my mind, most important reason for the blue Locktite is because in order to check the bolts holding the spacer on the axle, you need to remove the wheels. But since you swap wheels so often you can just retorque them and not worry about it.

BUT…if you are doubling up the spacers, are you going to have access to the bolts/nuts holding the first spacer to the axle? If not, you might want to use Locktite there…

 

[DustyRusty]

Henro, do you use blue Loctite on your automobile wheels? Considering that you drive 55 MPH, you wouldn't want one of your wheels to fall off because it wasn't secured with Loctite.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

In my mind, most important reason for the blue Locktite is because in order to check the bolts holding the spacer on the axle, you need to remove the wheels. But since you swap wheels so often you can just retorque them and not worry about it.

BUT…if you are doubling up the spacers, are you going to have access to the bolts/nuts holding the first spacer to the axle? If not, you might want to use Locktite there…

I'll remove all the spacers when switching back to the turf tires, hence the air impact to save time.

The past weekend tippyness made me want to get at least 2" spacers, now I have options. They arrived today and look great. Thanks go to all the members that contributed posts throughout the years.

Henro, do you use blue Loctite on your automobile wheels? Considering that you drive 55 MPH, you wouldn't want one of your wheels to fall off because it wasn't secured with Loctite.

The spacers came with pink thread lock, guess I got the girly version.

 

[DustyRusty]

I'll remove all the spacers when switching back to the turf tires, hence the air impact to save time.

The past weekend tippyness made me want to get at least 2" spacers, now I have options. They arrived today and look great. Thanks go to all the members that contributed posts throughout the years.


The spacers came with pink thread lock, guess I got the girly version.

Send it to Henro.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Rear wheel spacers are on, they're totally solid! Thanks for the forum posts on these. $35/set on sale (today, normally $56). They go on/off fast with an impact gun. Getting them started is easy by taking the extension off the impact gun, putting a nut/bolt in the end, then jiggling it as you hand start it to make sure it's not cross-threading (start all 5, then drive them in lightly, then up the torque).

Steering the BX around turns is more difficult, so while the BX is much more stable on hills with 2" x2 per side (4 inches total per side) the setup is really hard on the lawn and will have to come off for grass mowing.

The 80ft*lb torque stick measured in at about 70ft*lb of actual torque when tested with a torque wrench, so mu nuts are under Kubota's minimum rear torque specification by about 12%, which is my target since the wheels and spacers are being removed/re-installed every 3 weeks.

Do note the Kubota socket size for the rear wheels is 22mm so use those two nuts and three bolts first to hold the first spacer on. The socket for nuts that come with the the spacers is 19mm, don't use the 22mm by mistake.

OVERALL: Highly suggested if you need the extra stability spacers afford.

 

[Dchemphill1]

Along with the spacers it is worth the money to add beat juice to your tires. This really helps keep the tractor grounded.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Am surprised it’s hard on the lawn. Unless your rear axle is locked, it shouldn’t tear up the lawn.