I recently purchased a used B3350, which is 35 HP (27 HP at the PTO). I'd like to get a box blade that has hydraulic rippers, but I'm not finding many options. There's the Land Pride HR2572, but their website claims it's for 30+ HP tractors (which I'm assuming they're specifying at the PTO, since it is a three point attachment). I'd be just shy of that at 27 HP. While I still me be able to operate this to my satisfaction, it still would be the biggest implement I own (all fall in the 60-66" range). So I'm curious if there are slightly smaller options. Or is there a way to add hydraulic rippers to another box blade, such as the BB1260? Or would you just go with the HR2572? Thanks for any advice.
Good box scraper with hydraulic rippers for 35 HP tractor (27 HP at the PTO)?
- Thread starter bennynihon
- Start date
They would be basing the hp as engine hp since it doesn't have a pto. You will probably be more limited by the weight of the B3350 pulling it vs using a heavier L series.
Ah, yeah that was stupid of me to say. Definitely not a PTO implement. So I guess I'm now really just looking for recommendations for smaller box scrapers than the HR2572 that also have hydraulic rippers.
I think a former member on here retrofitted hydraulic rippers to a boxblade. Was it Sled dog? Can anyone remember who it was?
Benny, I'll compare my B2650 with a BB1572 and R4 tires to my M4 with a HR3584 with R1 tires. M4 tractor weighs nearly 8,000 lbs and the HR3584 weighs 1097. The B2650 weighs 3200 and the BB1572 weighs 850 (I added 500 lbs of 1" plate steel). I just used the M4 with the HR3584 to break up a 15 year old gravel parking lot that had huge chunks of concrete, asphalt, tree trunks, cinder block, and a fence gate post set in a piece of concrete 36" x 12" (it had been cut off at ground level and I couldn't see it). I used the scarifiers to rip down about 6" to get the pot-holes. I could travel at 5.4 mph in the M4. For several years before I got the M4, I maintained the 1.3 mile unassured road I live on. It's been here for 13 years and serves 15 homes. It would take me 14 hours to blade the road, traveling at 1.6 mph (prior to adding the weight, it would take about double the time, but I could travel at a much faster speed. I can do the same road with the M4 in 4 hours traveling as fast as my back and kidneys can take.
The hydraulic rippers are all the way up or all the way down - you can't use the hydraulics to drop them down half way. I didn't need the hydraulic rippers, but I got a good deal on the HR3584. I broke one of the shanks off working on the parking lot. With shipping, that cost $40 with $50 in shipping.
Your 3350 will work, but you won't be able to just drop the blade in any material.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Yea rippers and any size of box blade and your going to drag that B3350 right down to nothing.
You don't have enough HP and weight.
What are you wanting to do with it?
You don't have enough HP and weight.
What are you wanting to do with it?
appreciate you sharing your practical experience using those box blades. Interesting, so the hydraulic rippers are all the way up or all the way down? That makes it less appealing and not worth the big price difference between a simpler box scraper like the BB12/15 series
GreensvilleJay
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re: Interesting, so the hydraulic rippers are all the way up or all the way down?
Depends on HOW the 'plumbing' is done....
Depends on HOW the 'plumbing' is done....
It has nothing to do with the plumbing, the ripper bar is either up or down, nothing in between.
Now you can adjust the rippers in the ripper bar as far as how deep the rippers go, but this adjustment is manual just like the std box blades.
Now this statement is for hydraulic rippers (typically on commercial units) that rotate about 100* from the up to the down position.
Any rippers that are actuated and move straight up-down I have no idea if the hydraulic can be relied on for depth adjustment. I sort of doubt it.
GreensvilleJay
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I don't understand why the ripper bar can't be positioned 'inbetween' , only all up or all down. I've dragged subsoiler, plow, landscape rake, rear blade 'inbetween' for decades. Closest to box blade teeth would be the subsoiler. Running it 1/4 way down was great at chewing up the top 8" of hardpan.
It'd be nice to see one in person, but all the farms around me are sold off to become subdivisions.Acres and acres of houses instead of corn,oats, beans....
It'd be nice to see one in person, but all the farms around me are sold off to become subdivisions.Acres and acres of houses instead of corn,oats, beans....
Nope, 30+ HP does NOT mean PTO HP since you are NOT connecting anything to the PTO.
If it was a tiller, chipper or a mower that has a PTO drive shaft, then yes they would mean PTO HP...
Really, your main limited factors are going to be tires (if you have R4/Indust. vs. R1/Ag) and if those tires are loaded with ballast.
point to some other comments about rippers all the way down, you can still lift your box blade up so you only drag half the rippers in the ground. Ideal? No... but you can get the job done....
Yes, when down - there's a mechanical lock that locks them in place all the way down. If all the way up, they'll stay up. But if put part way down or not all the way up then they'll leak down and drag along the ground. Of course they still have the pin, and clip with 3 adjustment holes on the shanks.
I use a 60" King Kutter box blade on my L3301. I wish it was a 66" wide, but when it is full of material its quite a bit to pull with my L. My rear tires are loaded and I have welded a weight bracket to hang weights on the box blade.
In my opinion, my top link hydraulic tilt cylinder makes all the difference. The King Kutter has a spot where the teeth pin in flush with the back blade. I can tilt the box blade forward to grab and roughen up the material, then tilt it back to smooth it out. It works great, but the weight on top of the box blade helps it to dig in to the hard pack.
In my opinion, my top link hydraulic tilt cylinder makes all the difference. The King Kutter has a spot where the teeth pin in flush with the back blade. I can tilt the box blade forward to grab and roughen up the material, then tilt it back to smooth it out. It works great, but the weight on top of the box blade helps it to dig in to the hard pack.