Here is a couple more. The universal joint that is whole has a lot of slop and needs replaced. Do you think a shop would carry the joint or I would need to order the parts and provide to them? The end spline has some damage where the yoke broke. Not sure if that could be repaired?
B7100 HST 4X4 Front wheel locking - Need Help
- Thread starter Amishkingpin
- Start date
Before you pay that kind of money go to a driveline shop. You could also seek out Dump truck repair shops. They deal in PTO shafts this size and larger all the time. It's not unusual to chuck a shaft in a lathe to remove the yokes to replace them or save them to replace the shaft. Just get all the info before shelling out big bucks!
U-joints and yokes are standardized for the most part. I'm with lsmurphy, take it to a driveline shop before you buy from your dealer.
Try to get an accurate measurement of yoke center to center before you or someone else takes it completely apart incase you have to have a new weld-up shaft made.
Also note the yokes relative to each other on the shaft so not to be 'out of phase'.....if so they will fight each other end to end and case premature wear over time.
Also note the yokes relative to each other on the shaft so not to be 'out of phase'.....if so they will fight each other end to end and case premature wear over time.
Took it drive line 1 and they were great. I did order a new yoke piece from Messick today. When that piece comes, drive line said they would rebuild the shaft with new universal joints. Thx again for the advice. I hope to be back in business for around $200.
I will update with pictures after the rebuild.
I will update with pictures after the rebuild.
While the drive shaft is getting rebuilt I am trying to remove a sheared off roll pin from the transmission spindle. It is broken off and I bought a roll pin punch with not luck. It is stuck tight and won't budge at all. I also tried using a small drill bit to cut into the pin. Well, things went from bad to worse. The drill bit is stuck in the pin. Has anyone had this problem removing a roll pin and what advice does anyone have for me to try next?
Thanks, AK
Thanks, AK
Is the bit broken off? Can you get a pair of vise grips on the bit? If you can, try too back it out gently- In a situation like that it would be nice to wave a little heat on the input shaft and then try to tap it out with a punch that is the same outside dia of the roll pin... but prob not a good idea on this, dont want to damage the input shaft seal by heating it. I would get a little more aggresive with the punch- I am a mechanic by trade and have never come across one that with the correct size punch I could not drive out- Ron~
Ron,
No, the bit is not broken off. I figured I better take a break before I did break it. I will try a vice grip with some WD 45 sprayed on the roll pin and bit. The pin is out of the shaft just a little so maybe I can get a pinch with the vice grip but I doubt it.
AK
No, the bit is not broken off. I figured I better take a break before I did break it. I will try a vice grip with some WD 45 sprayed on the roll pin and bit. The pin is out of the shaft just a little so maybe I can get a pinch with the vice grip but I doubt it.
AK
Can you get onto the bit with a slide hammer and pull it?
You said the pin is protruding some, can you put a washer over it and weld anything onto it and then pull?
You said the pin is protruding some, can you put a washer over it and weld anything onto it and then pull?
Well, just came into the house.
Success!
I got the darn thing out. I couldn't pull the bit out, so I pounded the bit through the roll pin and then tried to use a vice grip and a reckon bar to pull the bit out. The bit broke off at the base of the pin, so after some JB Blaster and a roll pin punch, little swearing,and hammering like hell, it popped out.
This weekend I will put the rebuilt drive shaft back in. Are there any tricks I should be aware? Will the new roll pins just hammer right in?
Thanks guys for your advice and coaching me through this. I had serious doubts that I could get this done!
AK
Success!
I got the darn thing out. I couldn't pull the bit out, so I pounded the bit through the roll pin and then tried to use a vice grip and a reckon bar to pull the bit out. The bit broke off at the base of the pin, so after some JB Blaster and a roll pin punch, little swearing,and hammering like hell, it popped out.
This weekend I will put the rebuilt drive shaft back in. Are there any tricks I should be aware? Will the new roll pins just hammer right in?
Thanks guys for your advice and coaching me through this. I had serious doubts that I could get this done!
AK
AK, you may have already figured this out, but the roll pins are metric. So, make sure you know the size or just go to your dealer and get one.
Congratulations on getting it out!!
John
Congratulations on getting it out!!
John
Is it a bad idea to put some antisieze on the pin before installing? I don't want to advise something that is questionable, but I would be tempted to do it, unless it would be inclined to work its way out because of lower friction.
Yes, use anti-seize. And three years from now when he has to take it apart again he won't have to go though this again.
BTW, heat will destroy the seal and beating on it when a BFH ain't doing the seal and bearings any favors.
And dont' confuse a roll pin with a tension pin.
Yesterday I got the driveshaft back.
I did use Messicks to order my Kubota parts. They are a good source. I spoke with a friendly guy that knew exactly what I needed and spoke tractor english. I received the parts in 4 days and paid $250 for all the drive shaft parts. I would highly recommend them.
Drive-Line 1 rebuilt both joints with new parts from Kubota and even repainted it. Those guys are incredible. In 20 minutes while I waited, they rebuilt the drive shaft for only $26. Remembering the dealer told me that it couldn't be rebuilt and wanted to sell me a new one for over $600 versus the $276 in have in a just like new one! Here is their contact information if you ever need any type of drive shaft work:
DRIVE-LINE 1
1369 Frank Road
Columbus, Ohio 43223
(614) 279-7734
Tell them Nick sent you. I told them about this awesome Orangetractortalks website.
So, to wrap this up. I installed the drive shaft and drove the tractor today. Works like new. This B7100 HST w/FEL is back in service!
Bring the snow on...
I did use Messicks to order my Kubota parts. They are a good source. I spoke with a friendly guy that knew exactly what I needed and spoke tractor english. I received the parts in 4 days and paid $250 for all the drive shaft parts. I would highly recommend them.
Drive-Line 1 rebuilt both joints with new parts from Kubota and even repainted it. Those guys are incredible. In 20 minutes while I waited, they rebuilt the drive shaft for only $26. Remembering the dealer told me that it couldn't be rebuilt and wanted to sell me a new one for over $600 versus the $276 in have in a just like new one! Here is their contact information if you ever need any type of drive shaft work:
DRIVE-LINE 1
1369 Frank Road
Columbus, Ohio 43223
(614) 279-7734
Tell them Nick sent you. I told them about this awesome Orangetractortalks website.
So, to wrap this up. I installed the drive shaft and drove the tractor today. Works like new. This B7100 HST w/FEL is back in service!
Bring the snow on...
Big Kahuna
Member
Equipment
Kubota 2000 L3010 HST with Loader ,1992 B7100HST , 1979 B6100E & 2007 F2880
What size is that roll pin? Mine is broken to, and I need to get a new one.
Big Kahuna
Thanks