Recent content by JasonW

I have an open station M6040. I installed an auxiliary fuse block ran to the battery under the dash tied to a relay so it’s only powered with the key on. I have lights and a fan all going to the aux fuse block. The fan on mine is a 12” radiator fan listed at 80w.

Keep the clutch pedal adjusted according to the manual. Don’t ride with your foot on the pedal. Just be cautious of your foot riding the clutch. That goes for the brake pedal also. Use a lower gear when going into the pile of dirt, etc. Shift when the engine is near idle. Not ideal when mowing...

Which filter? Looking at the parts diagram the hydraulic filter HHTA0-37710 includes the magnet. But can also be bought separately. (For $17 if you happen to break it.) The HST filter HHTA0-59900 doesn’t show a magnet at all.

Based on your recent ZD purchase and working on it, only you can decide you want do to. Spend a little more and not have to work/restore it for the next 10 years. You said the L5030 doesn’t have a loader? Would you need one? Probably not available anymore and if it is you would be money ahead...

Hold the vacuum on the fill port to create a vacuum as you remove and install the new filters. A separate person operating the vacuum makes it easier.

Looks to be the gasket between the two housings. How much mechanical skill do you have? Look at some parts diagrams and download the service manual to get an idea of what needs to be removed. It wouldn’t be gear oil and the rear end is shared with the transmission/hydraulic fluid. Clean it off...

Any update on this? I’ll ad more information. Yesterday I had a log caught and crushed the front side of the skid plate and fuel tank from underneath on my M6040. You can remove the fuel tank WITHOUT removing the tire OR fender. Took longer to drain the tank than to actually remove it. Good...

Definitely a strange issue. Do you have KTAC? You might need it if you have any ponds that you mow around.…

Really it’s more likely just pressure/vacuum in the dipstick tube. My tractor does the same thing with the hydraulic dip stick. My boat motor also does the same thing. Always pull, clean then reinstall to check proper level.

Should be similar to my M6040. Remove what they call the bonnet first. Two screws at the bottom towards the seat and one screw on each side with the hood open. The gauge cluster is easily removed after that.

Was you able to download the service manual and look at the wiring diagram? I may have missed something but what part are you calling the controller/ECM? These don’t have a computer. Really the only electronics is the fuel cut off solenoid. Edit. I see it now on Messicks diagrams.

Adding to the drain pan idea. The storage tote I used was able to slide under the tractor with enough clearance to access the drain plugs. After installing the drain plugs and filling the tractor with fluid I just moved the tractor. So no need to try and move the tote full of fluid.

And for only $800 difference to go new. New warranty if needed and no rust. And better resale if/when you upgrade. Much easier to sell a like new trailer than one 20 years old for $500 less than a new one cost.

I’ll also add I’ve followed your threads about getting this tractor. I would at least get new drain plug gaskets for every drain plug you plan on servicing if not new drain plugs also depending on their condition. IE if they are rounded or damaged from using the wrong size socket on them.