Recent content by Caden

I will check them out, thanks. My instinct is to go all original but since I had trouble finding what I wanted, that led me to consider alternatives. But since I generally avoid customization, that led me to indecisiveness, which then led me here. :D

Bigger Hammer.

Not sure how "safe" it is, but I've had success in the past using a brazing rod to repair steel line pinholes. On the other hand, I would think a hydro shop would have no problem making a steel line.

I had to look it up, apparently they still do but you have to have a paid subscription to it. I appreciate your thoughts here.

Looking for some opinions or y'all's own experiences here. Let me get the backstory out of the way: I have an 1984 Ford Single cab truck. Originally got it very cheaply on its way to the junkyard. Since then, over the years, I have been slowly bringing it back from the dead, while using it as a...

Probably worth it for the spindle repair, especially if it runs good. Besides, you can't have us participate in a 5 month long repair thread just to sell the mower! I would ask for some pictures of the crack once you get the deck back. Do not JB Weld, not good for this purpose. If the cracks...

That is great to hear, glad your vehicle is repaired.

I made the mistake of getting one from an equipment dealer. $90+, and it didn't even have the emblem on it. Nor did it fit right, as I had to bend the tabs. If you do try to make it, lmk and I can send you dimensions.

Okay I'm confused, at first it won't crank, but now you're setting the timing? Or is this a different vehicle with the gas leak? I got lost I think. Were you able to get the gas leak fixed?

Sorry to leave you stranded, but if this is still a relevant question, do not drive with a gas leak. Even if its not near the exuast or other heat, its not a good idea. You seem to know what you need to do to repair it so call someone/ ride service for a ride home to get your parts you know...

No, they aren't very expensive, but when I looked at TS.com I saw a 35 inch "long" one, but I thought thats the length he had already so I wasn't sure.

Could you make an extension piece?

Here's what we need to know to determine what the issue likely is: Do you lose all other electronics (lights, radio, dashboard etc.) at the same time the starter stops working? If so, do they come back on when you stop trying to crank, or do you stay without any power? You will have to answer...

You want 2 inches of thread still in the barrel part of the top link on each side I'd say to be safe. I assume with a blower, you need the rear end down, meaning the toplink needs to be extended. I know they make a long version of toplinks, so you may want to check with your dealer on that if...

Well, oil on the starter is not good, but if you loose all other electrical componets like the radio and dashboard lights, also, then it sounds like the problem is unrelated to the starter. To me, sounds like you have a bad ground, or bad connection on one of your battery cables. Likely when...