Using the drawbar to pull a trailer

[DawgHouse]

I am a new Kubota owner. For clarity, when I say drawbar, I mean the bar coming straight out under the PTO with holes for adjustment. Here's my question...I am trying to pull a trailer (not fast or long distances). It is a 7000 lb 20' car hauler. Not sure of weight but I'm guessing 1,000 - 1,500 lbs. I've heard a lot of warning about pulling with the 3PH so I'm ruling that out. If I attach a ball directly to the drawbar, will that work safely? And, will I be able to raise the quick hitch high enough to keep it out of the way of the trailer when turning? Thanks for the help.

 

[bird dogger]

I do the same with my B2650 and my car hauler trailer. I'm assuming moving an empty trailer? If so, you should be just fine.

I don't have/use a quick hitch so I can't comment on that. Other than raise your quick hitch up and check for clearance against your trailer tongue. I'd also guess you'd be fine. If the clearance is close, you could move your top link attachment to the other hole on the tractor mount to raise the hitch up even higher?

 

[imnukensc]

I wouldn't worry at all about pulling that with the 3 pt. It's not going to hurt it one iota.

 

[DawgHouse]

Thanks Bird. I'll have to take off my bush hog to see how high I can raise the 3PH. If I have the clearance sounds like that is the way to go.

 

[Ping]

Not sure what speed, terrain & how loaded the trailer you plan to pull is but, yes, absolutely you will be able to pull from the drawbar. If traveling at high speed, stopping will be your issue. I have occasionally dragged my 18' trailer behind my BX when cleaning up trees in the yard without issue. As you noted, don't use a 'drawbar' across the 3pt arms.
I would think your 3pt raised up will clear the trailer tongue but, you'd have to be turning pretty sharp for that to be an issue. Though, I could be wrong. Hope this helps.

 

[ayak]

I’ve done it both ways ok with my dump and equipment trailers (each about 2500lbs empty), to move them around on level ground for maintenance and such. Being able to stop is as much a consideration as anything, especially heading downhill.

 

[DawgHouse]

Ping and Ayak, thanks. Since this is new equipment for me, I'm just looking for some reassurance that I'm doing this the best way. Property is relatively flat so I don't have an issue there. Thanks again.

 

[Russell King]

But you will (probably) need to watch how sharp you turn and the trailer tongue might be able to hit the tracto’s rear tires. It depends on the tongue length and how much angle it flairs out.

 

[bird dogger]

Where are our manners?!?!

Welcome to OTT, DawgHouse!!

 

[Old Machinist]

I've never heard any concerns about pulling anything with the 3pt. What do you suppose it's doing when you pull a plow, box blade with rippers, tiller, etc?

I don't use my drawbar and leave it off the tractor. It limits my turning ability because the attachment point is inside the tires. I use a 3pt 2" receiver on a 3pt quick hitch. This keeps the attachment point out past the tires so I can make 90 degree turns if I need to. I have various ball mounts and even use one without a ball for pin attached implements. I even use it with one mount I made with a ripper for pulling roots and digging trenches.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Might not be relevant. Different tractor but of similar size. The NH I traded in for the Kubota had a drawbar with a 1 3/4" ball mount hole. Used it for years pulling a trailer with a one ton max up and down some moderately steeper pitches (>6%) loaded with firewood.

No plans to haul full loads using the BX. Going to give a receiver mount that attaches to the BX trailer mounting plate a go. The BXpanded quick on/off unit. Hopefully the 6"of rise and extension of the ball mount will give me adequate clearance without needing to remove the QH05. If not to liking. Was thinking about one of those 3 pt triangular shaped receiver units. So why is it some feel it might be a bad idea? Considering the wide choices. Must be relatively popular. Load limits? Stability issues? Or just someones internet opinion? Thinking more like Old Machinist.

 

[Heehaw]

I've never heard any concerns about pulling anything with the 3pt. What do you suppose it's doing when you pull a plow, box blade with rippers, tiller, etc?

I don't use my drawbar and leave it off the tractor. It limits my turning ability because the attachment point is inside the tires. I use a 3pt 2" receiver on a 3pt quick hitch. This keeps the attachment point out past the tires so I can make 90 degree turns if I need to. I have various ball mounts and even use one without a ball for pin attached implements. I even use it with one mount I made with a ripper for pulling roots and digging trenches.

I think the main concern with pulling a trailer with the 3pt is the possibility of the trailer tongue lifting the 3pt if there isn’t enough weight on the front of the trailer.
With that said I have used my 3pt to pull my trailer full of firewood many times without issues.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can get a three point hitch to move stuff around, that's all I use.
I have a B7100 and can move my trailers around empty.

The only thing to do with a three point hitch is to put a check chain on the hitch to the drawbar to keep it from going to high.

 

[Warlordchet]

I am a new Kubota owner. For clarity, when I say drawbar, I mean the bar coming straight out under the PTO with holes for adjustment. Here's my question...I am trying to pull a trailer (not fast or long distances). It is a 7000 lb 20' car hauler. Not sure of weight but I'm guessing 1,000 - 1,500 lbs. I've heard a lot of warning about pulling with the 3PH so I'm ruling that out. If I attach a ball directly to the drawbar, will that work safely? And, will I be able to raise the quick hitch high enough to keep it out of the way of the trailer when turning? Thanks for the help.

I am a new Kubota owner. For clarity, when I say drawbar, I mean the bar coming straight out under the PTO with holes for adjustment. Here's my question...I am trying to pull a trailer (not fast or long distances). It is a 7000 lb 20' car hauler. Not sure of weight but I'm guessing 1,000 - 1,500 lbs. I've heard a lot of warning about pulling with the 3PH so I'm ruling that out. If I attach a ball directly to the drawbar, will that work safely? And, will I be able to raise the quick hitch high enough to keep it out of the way of the trailer when turning? Thanks for the help.

drill a hole through the bucket and set a ball in the bucket. Pull trailer in reverse. Problem solved.

 

[The Evil Twin]

@DawgHouse I move trailers a lot with the tractor. Only using the 3 point with a Heavy Hitch receiver. So much easier since I don't have to wind the tongue jack. Just raise the 3 point and go! Drop it where I want it and the tongue jack is still the right height for when I hook the truck up. My two largest trailers (other than the toy hauler are just shy of 6k. Dump trailer may be around 7 if it's got junk in the trunk.

 

[John D 2]

I have a 20 ft Lamar car hauler trailer with 5200lb axles. Empty it weighs 2300 lbs.

I use my B2601 with a 3 pt receiver trailer hitch to move it in and out of my shop.

It doesn't even know its back there.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

For me and my machine, I would be more worried about how much weight I could safely put on the drawbar (and how level the ground would be where pulling the trailer) and be able to balance the load pulling.

Depending on what doing some up or down in the terrain can really change the tongue weight and depending on how much could potential lighten front end to point of steering loss. Worst of all, unless your draw bar is coincidently at correct height to balance your trailer, it’s more likely not going to be able to balance your trailer. I don’t know that to be true in your case, that would be my concern though. I suspect traction on your rear axle should be fine though.

If a load on three pt you do have the option to balance as necessary. Sure it could cause a problem, but you could chain it as @North Idaho Wolfman suggested. Or again you can adjust the 3pt as ground condition changes to keep proper weight on tongue and keep balanced.

IMO benefits of 3pt outweigh the draw bar in this case. If using a wagon then sure use the draw bar. Draw bar is for pulling and keeping center of gravity low when ground engaging, not holding weight IMO.

Good luck. Keep the rubber side down.

 

[McMXi]

For me and my machine, I would be more worried about how much weight I could safely put on the drawbar (and how level the ground would be where pulling the trailer) and be able to balance the load pulling.

Depending on what doing some up or down in the terrain can really change the tongue weight and depending on how much could potential lighten front end to point of steering loss. Worst of all, unless your draw bar is coincidently at correct height to balance your trailer, it’s more likely not going to be able to balance your trailer. I don’t know that to be true in your case, that would be my concern though. I suspect traction on your rear axle should be fine though.

If a load on three pt you do have the option to balance as necessary. Sure it could cause a problem, but you could chain it as @North Idaho Wolfman suggested. Or again you can adjust the 3pt as ground condition changes to keep proper weight on tongue and keep balanced.

IMO benefits of 3pt outweigh the draw bar in this case. If using a wagon then sure use the draw bar. Draw bar is for pulling and keeping center of gravity low when ground engaging, not holding weight IMO.

Good luck. Keep the rubber side down.

I think you make some very good points, but I'm going to make the bold assumption that most tractor owners don't own or use trailers specifically designed for tractors, and herein lies the problem. Pulling off the drawbar is by far the best and safest way to pull a heavy trailer, and the only method recommended by Kubota, and the only one that Kubota provides data for. If you look at the farming community you'll see that most if not all are pulling off the drawbar, but they're pulling trailers designed for tractors. Take a look at Berkelmans Welding trailers and you'll see that they're designed to be pulled off the drawbar.

I own seven trailers, but none are designed for a tractor. I will eventually correct that and buy a tractor appropriate dump trailer. The problem with non-tractor trailers is that they typically have short tongues (A frames) that make contact with the lower links in tight turns, and as you mentioned, the tongues are not at the appropriate height relative to the drawbar location on the tractor. This problem is further exacerbated by the fact that drawbars position the ball forward of the rearmost part of the tractor (rear tires), whereas a truck receiver positions the ball rearward of the rear bumper. I've pulled or moved trailers many times using the 3-point, and chain the 3-point to the drawbar to prevent it from raising if the tongue weight goes negative, but I'm not about to pull the maximum listed trailer weight using the 3-point and will only do that using the drawbar.

In the world of hobbyist tractor owners we often have to make do with what we have, but if someone needs/wants to pull a trailer loaded anywhere close to the maximum as listed in the owner's manual, I suggest that they buy a trailer designed for that purpose and use the drawbar rather than the 3-point.

 

[SDT]

I've never heard any concerns about pulling anything with the 3pt. What do you suppose it's doing when you pull a plow, box blade with rippers, tiller, etc?

I don't use my drawbar and leave it off the tractor. It limits my turning ability because the attachment point is inside the tires. I use a 3pt 2" receiver on a 3pt quick hitch. This keeps the attachment point out past the tires so I can make 90 degree turns if I need to. I have various ball mounts and even use one without a ball for pin attached implements. I even use it with one mount I made with a ripper for pulling roots and digging trenches.

Don't want to pull overhauling loads with three point hitch because hitch can raise while going downhill, potentially causing disconnect. Folks have been injured and killed doing so.

Draw bar stays can be used to prevent such, but it is safer to pull such things from the swinging drawbar.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I think you make some very good points, but I'm going to make the bold assumption that most tractor owners don't own or use trailers specifically designed for tractors, and herein lies the problem. Pulling off the drawbar is by far the best and safest way to pull a heavy trailer, and the only method recommended by Kubota, and the only one that Kubota provides data for. If you look at the farming community you'll see that most if not all are pulling off the drawbar, but they're pulling trailers designed for tractors. Take a look at Berkelmans Welding trailers and you'll see that they're designed to be pulled off the drawbar.

I own seven trailers, but none are designed for a tractor. I will eventually correct that and buy a tractor appropriate dump trailer. The problem with non-tractor trailers is that they typically have short tongues (A frames) that make contact with the lower links in tight turns, and as you mentioned, the tongues are not at the appropriate height relative to the drawbar location on the tractor. This problem is further exacerbated by the fact that drawbars position the ball forward of the rearmost part of the tractor (rear tires), whereas a truck receiver positions the ball rearward of the rear bumper. I've pulled or moved trailers many times using the 3-point, and chain the 3-point to the drawbar to prevent it from raising if the tongue weight goes negative, but I'm not about to pull the maximum listed trailer weight using the 3-point and will only do that using the drawbar.

In the world of hobbyist tractor owners we often have to make do with what we have, but if someone needs/wants to pull a trailer loaded anywhere close to the maximum as listed in the owner's manual, I suggest that they buy a trailer designed for that purpose and use the drawbar rather than the 3-point.

I could not agree more….id also add that pulling from drawbar also assumes have an appropriate load to do that, including an appropriate trailer tongue height and weight in drawbar for pulling, not stacking weight.

I agree though problem is not having appropriate trailer for use with tractor.

The only trailer that I have that works well with my tractor is my offroad camper that has a lock n roll hitch that I can set the receiver up high or down low…it’s a perfect match for my tractor in the low setting. My wagon is perfect to use draw bar and it doesn’t matter which tractor.