Tiller hookup

[Rezzey]

Hi guys having a stab at trying to get the rs1200 tiller that came with my b1600dt running. First step is to figure a suitable top link size/style. I know it has to be much shorter than the dog ratchet ive temporarily hooked it up with to get it to the shed but have no clue how close. I am having height issues (as you can see from the rear pic as this is as high as the arms lift the tiller with this top link length so shorter will help me i think. Will a chain work or does it have to be a ridgid bar? Any recommendations on what angles these tillers are ment to be looking like from the side?
Cheers, jake

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[Rezzey]

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[clay45]

I know a chain will work for moving it but how much strain you'd be placing on a pto shaft when the tiller jumps and surges is anyone's guess. Looks like you're at the maximum length for a top link now. Couldn't you measure and go from there?

 

[CountryBumkin]

Can you move the Lifting Rods connection to the Lower Links one hole closer toward the tiller. That would give you more lifting height and more lifting "power". The length of the Top Link would be determined when the Tiller is sitting level on the ground, I think.

 

[Rezzey]

I found a tractor with the pieces i need finaly. And it just happens to be in Oz! But the owners are Asian and cant understand what i need. Does anyone know where I can get these three parts from (i have the first part but its only got two holes instead of three for the pins). Do they have a part number?

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[Russell King]

Could you borrow them and have something fabricated?


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[Wbk]

Hi, just looking at the pictures you seem to be high enough off of the ground. Do you have a PTO shaft that you can install and see what angles you have on your U joints, that would be what I would use as sort of a guide as to the length of top link I would use. If you have too much angle on the U joints you'll have premature wear, or worse a vibration. I hope this helps you. Barry

 

[Wbk]

Rez in your picture is #3 a shock absorber ?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Rezzey,
In the pictures of your setup you have it hooked up to the end of the three point arms, and not the mounts that are fixed to the back of the tractor, so you don't need the same setup that you show in the other picture, you just need a simple top link to hook it up right.

 

[Rezzey]

Ohhhhh whhhaaaatt!! Ive been looking for so long for these dang two part top link Wolf! (my misunderstanding)

This is even better news!

Haha it does kind of look like a shock absorber. I dont know but i think its just a weird short top link. Its all the way the other side of the city so I havent seen it in person.

Would you recommend a shear pin shaft or a clutched shaft? The distance from the key notches in the splines of the tractor and tiller are around 400mm from memory.

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[Wbk]

I prefer the clutch, replacing the shear bolt is a PITA and with a tiller your bound to hit a root or a stone sooner or later.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

On a lot of these little guys, the generic cat 1 top link will be too wide to fit in between the mounts on the back of the tractor, just grind the top link ball down to the right width.

 

[Rezzey]

Great thanks guys. Whats the reason behind the clutch being on the attachment end only? Coulndt i put in on the tractor end of the shaft and just cut all my shafts to suit it so i just have the one clutch for tiller, slasher and finish mower?

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

1: The clutch pack are usually too bulky and will hit things around it if attached at the front.
2: It's better to brake the connection at the clutch pack instead of across the u-joints and the shaft, which will get damaged from the sudden stop.

 

[JorisFRST]

As Wolfman said, on the B1600DT you just need the adjustable top link for the 3point setup.

link to big picture : https://w2mimw.dm2301.livefilestore...0lxgu1fc?width=5312&height=2976&cropmode=none

 

[D2Cat]

JorisFRST, your picture is a tad too big. It's nice that you share a picture, but can you shrink it down some? I don't have a 5' monitor.

 

[JorisFRST]

JorisFRST, your picture is a tad too big. It's nice that you share a picture, but can you shrink it down some? I don't have a 5' monitor.

Edited Smaller picture now.

 

[DonDC]

I have an RS1000 on a B7001 and it is not a 3 point hook up. It is a 2 point which means that it has fittings on either side of the PTO that connect directly to those U shape parts on the tiller. If you don't have the 2 point connections on your tractor you would have to do considerable mods to make it work on a 3 point system. My tractor is out at my son's farm. Will try to get you pictures of the hook up when I next go out there.

 

[JorisFRST]

I have an RS1000 on a B7001 and it is not a 3 point hook up. It is a 2 point which means that it has fittings on either side of the PTO that connect directly to those U shape parts on the tiller. If you don't have the 2 point connections on your tractor you would have to do considerable mods to make it work on a 3 point system. My tractor is out at my son's farm. Will try to get you pictures of the hook up when I next go out there.

On Page1 of this topic you can see the pictures of his RS tiller, it's a 3 point version. (I also have the 2 point version).

Also, he has the standard B1600DT setup, which has the U shaped parts, but which he doesn't need for his tiller.

 

[Rezzey]

Thanks so much guys. It works!!!

After going down to the tractor yard and getting a standard top link, a clutch and the second half of a pto shaft to match one half that came with tiller, putting oil in both the gear box and chain gear box of the tiller and packing grease in lower bearing (all bone dry - im assuming its like that from overseas transport when ever it rocked up yonks ago in Australia and no one had used it since) I tilled for the first time ever made a hella mess.

The top link was just a standard length one i cut a piece out of the middle to shorten it and welded it back together as good as i could for a first time stick welder.

The clutch, however, wouldnt fit within the 470mm i had for the the two uni joints plus 4-6" of pto shaft at its shortest length and a clutch, all came to way over 550mm.

Just the whole shaft by itself with no clutch only has 115mm of overlap by the time its all hooked up.

I hope that im not risking too much if i just take it steady with no type of protection (i cant see there being any on the 2pt tiller version anyway?) and if something does go wrong I prey its the pto shaft, u joint, or tiller chain that decides to bite the bullet and not my IMPOSSIBLE-to-find-parts tractor gears.

During my slow test today in 1st/low range/crawler (all three combined is slower than a snail) i could feel and see in time when i was hitting a brick or root to assess if its safe or to dig it out by hand.

Ill use the clutch on the slasher and finish mower though so no big loss.

I'll get pics tomorrow when I'm gonna tear the yard up some more Thanks again guys for all the advice

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