T1600H lawntractor

[kyleenright]

Hi
I am having problems with the PTO belts not lasting on my T1600H lawn tractor.
Kubota dealer once told me that if I put new pulleys and the original belts that it would regulate the problem!
I did buy the original belts only once for around $90 but they didn't last much longer.
My tensioner is straight!
I am considering the new belts and pulleys but want to be certain before spending the bucks.
Has anyone experienced this problem and what was the fix?

 

[Dave_eng]

Ordering quality non Kubita belts is far easier than most people think.

V belts have a common or generic number and then a manufacturer's production number.

A Dayco, Carlisile or Gates AP 103 belt will all be identical.

Each manufacturer will have their own number but those numbers only serve to confuse people and make them order a belt from the equipment manufacturer.

Step 1 belt length.
This Youtube video shows you how easy it is to measure the outside circumference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kYLYrw0gUE&t=22s

Step 2: Belt width

Most mower belts are either an A or B width

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/img/zoro...tion_eZtip.pdf

Step 3: Now you know the length and width of your belt. The final step is to make certain you order and get a belt with the letter "P" in the number. AP103 or BP160

The "P" is the designator for Kevlar and is the only type of reinforcing cord that will stand up to lawn maintenance use.

Go to ebay.com and search for the belt you need.

AP103 V belt will yield many choices.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-V-Bel...sAAOxy69JTD4X7

I have had bad luck with D & D belts. I order a BP and they send me a B. That is why their prices look so much better than Gates for example.

Rusty pulleys will greatly accelerate belt wear.

Ask questions if anything is not clear.

Dave

 

[kyleenright]

The belts I have been using are Kevlar wrapped B28.

Again these are the belts that go from the engine down to the PTO and there is a flat pulley binder to engage the PTO.

To me it seems like these belts don't like having the binder running on the outside of them. Seems the outside wrapping is the first thing to let go.

 

[kyleenright]

The exact number of belt I have been using is MXV5-310

 

[D2Cat]

Maybe that "binder" pulley has a bad bearing and is dragging causing the backside of the belts to heat up.

 

[lugbolt]

Tensioner pulley will sometimes seize during operation and cause the belt(s) to be burned. This is fairly common and honestly aside from being just old, is the #1 cause of belt failures on those old T1600's.

Wrong type belt can cause issues too. Is the V the correct angle? Are they the correct width? Are they the correct material? Are they both identical in length? Are they both covered in the correct sheath? There's a LOT more to V- belts than just picking out the length and width. If they aren't exact, they'll fail prematurely. The Kubota belt set is correct; I can't speak of others--and have had poor "luck" with others to be honest.

Is there anything rubbing on the outside of the belt, say a guide, bolt, etc? Is the lower pulley shaft tight and not sloppy? Are the lower pulley shaft bearings trying to seize during operation? Is the blade brake working properly? How are the engine mounts? If they're loose, it'll allow excessive misalignment.

Those are a few things to think about--not even considering the deck itself.

What you can do is grab an infared temperature "gun", remove the deck drive shaft and then turn the PTO on and run it a while. You don't want to see much more than about 175-200 degree belt temp. If it's getting hotter than that, you have some kind of problem especially with no load on it (deck drive shaft off). Even if they're not overheating, some aftermarket belts just won't take the heat and will fail early because they were designed for some other application that has a LOT more cool air flowing across them, like a radiator fan belt or something like that.