Ok... just seems impossible to get good info... I took the tractor to our closest local dealer for pressure tests... he cite's pressures as low, but the numbers he verbally could remember were high according to my manual (he's young and used to more modern higher pressure systems). But he did NOT actually record them... so we cant really tell what he had and which chart he was using... and still insisted on being paid. Waste of a $123! They wanted just too much to get in it as further testing requires splitting and opening up the tractor so he said!
(see my old posts from a while back under my user name)
So it came home... I ran it and seems real strong when cold... starts loosing it as it warms up. I just hate swapping out for new $1300 unit when it maybe is $3 spring... but I just can't seem to get a real rebuild and spec manual for it. Yea I have Kubota's service manual for it... but that doesn't get deep enough.
I sure doesn't help that I'm working away... but I'm going home for Thanksgiving and am hoping to do more tests and maybe opening it up.
I sent inquiry's explaining everything the 1st dealer near Seman OH did (and did not do) to another local Kubota dealer in Wilmington OH (twice) asking what they would charge to redo the pressure tests the other dealer didn't finish... and check regulators etc, other options such as what a new HST unit costs, or if its all the same due to Kubota pricing policy, availability of parts to rebuild it myself, several various options as I saw it... etc.... NEVER heard a single word from the email... sent twice a month apart.... guess he'll NEVER get a thin dime from me for this or any of the three other old tractors I have which will always need parts now and then.... Just irritates the crap out of me.... seems if its not an opened ended 10K dollar repair job... or buying a 10-20k unit... they pretty much ignore you! I sent the email with plenty of time so I could take it to them when I went home for a week in May... explaining I'm ONLY home then.... NEVER a word and I sent to management even! YEA this IS getting OLD!
Do any of you know what the port thread sizes are... on the test ports? I can get gauges... but the local shop (not a dealer) I had go through and service the whole tractor and who found the problem to start with) could not get the appropriate fittings to tap into the ports... non of our local stores had whatever metric size it is. If I can find this size I'll order them up on line from some where and maybe do my own tests over Thanksgiving instead of opening it up... SINCE I really do not KNOW what the test results were or if they were done properly... JEESSSS!!!!!
If the pressures truly are low when hot (something the 1st dealer didn't compare (cold verses hot.... hmpt!) So here I am wondering... so if its bleeding by pressure at various worn areas... what would happen if (since it works just fine when cold and the oils viscosity is stiffer) if one used a lower viscosity oil, or blended up something... not sure what viscosity Kubota uses... I know some oils like old Hytran in the Farmall 560s is very thin... while other older systems were basically a 30 wt like my old Ford 961 selecto.
So what if I put a blend of 50wt or something... if its considered dead now... what can it hurt?
The rest of this tractor is good, 1200 hours (and I believe it from other indicators) and runs like a top.
If I didn't have $3000 hospital bill to pay right now I'd consider the new $1300 unit and call it good. But I can't invent money, I can only earn it so fast.
Dave
(see my old posts from a while back under my user name)
So it came home... I ran it and seems real strong when cold... starts loosing it as it warms up. I just hate swapping out for new $1300 unit when it maybe is $3 spring... but I just can't seem to get a real rebuild and spec manual for it. Yea I have Kubota's service manual for it... but that doesn't get deep enough.
I sure doesn't help that I'm working away... but I'm going home for Thanksgiving and am hoping to do more tests and maybe opening it up.
I sent inquiry's explaining everything the 1st dealer near Seman OH did (and did not do) to another local Kubota dealer in Wilmington OH (twice) asking what they would charge to redo the pressure tests the other dealer didn't finish... and check regulators etc, other options such as what a new HST unit costs, or if its all the same due to Kubota pricing policy, availability of parts to rebuild it myself, several various options as I saw it... etc.... NEVER heard a single word from the email... sent twice a month apart.... guess he'll NEVER get a thin dime from me for this or any of the three other old tractors I have which will always need parts now and then.... Just irritates the crap out of me.... seems if its not an opened ended 10K dollar repair job... or buying a 10-20k unit... they pretty much ignore you! I sent the email with plenty of time so I could take it to them when I went home for a week in May... explaining I'm ONLY home then.... NEVER a word and I sent to management even! YEA this IS getting OLD!
Do any of you know what the port thread sizes are... on the test ports? I can get gauges... but the local shop (not a dealer) I had go through and service the whole tractor and who found the problem to start with) could not get the appropriate fittings to tap into the ports... non of our local stores had whatever metric size it is. If I can find this size I'll order them up on line from some where and maybe do my own tests over Thanksgiving instead of opening it up... SINCE I really do not KNOW what the test results were or if they were done properly... JEESSSS!!!!!
If the pressures truly are low when hot (something the 1st dealer didn't compare (cold verses hot.... hmpt!) So here I am wondering... so if its bleeding by pressure at various worn areas... what would happen if (since it works just fine when cold and the oils viscosity is stiffer) if one used a lower viscosity oil, or blended up something... not sure what viscosity Kubota uses... I know some oils like old Hytran in the Farmall 560s is very thin... while other older systems were basically a 30 wt like my old Ford 961 selecto.
So what if I put a blend of 50wt or something... if its considered dead now... what can it hurt?
The rest of this tractor is good, 1200 hours (and I believe it from other indicators) and runs like a top.
If I didn't have $3000 hospital bill to pay right now I'd consider the new $1300 unit and call it good. But I can't invent money, I can only earn it so fast.
Dave
