size and thread for oil drain plug on Kubota ZD331

doglover

New member

Equipment
B7500, ZD331
Jun 12, 2020
4
0
1
Waterford, CT
I am trying to replace the oil drain plug on my ZD331, (Kubota part number 15707-33750) with a replacement plug that permits faster and less messy oil changes. However, the company that makes that device needs to know the size and thread of the existing one. Unfortunately, I just changed the oil and the only way of figuring it out would be to take it out again and see the thread and size. Before I do that, I was hoping someone might already be able to tell me that information. I couldn't find it doing a Google search or on the tech specs for this model. Thanks for any help anyone can provide and for the time you spent reading this post.

Geoff
 

GeoHorn

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,049
3,327
113
Texas
Been there, Done that. Know what you want. Got a better solution (at least in my experience.)
Buy an extractor or evacuator pump and leave your drain plug intalled permanently. Here’s how I came to that solution:
I own a couple of machines with quick-drains such as you are contemplating. Yes, they work. But you either still have to get beneath the machine and do 90% of what you used-to-have-to-do ...and it’s still messy.
Some of the easy-drains have permanent hoses attached. They are not really permanent. The rubber softens from the constant exposure to hot oil and eventually fails..hopefully not while you’re out in the field, on the lake, in the air, wherever.
The drain plug does NOT actually drain ALL the oil as you likely believe. They are either placed in a protected area of the sump which is above the lowest point of that sump.... Or they are installed thru a “bung” or “boss” which acts as a standpipe, preventing full removal of the oil. Dirt and sludge remains in the bottom-most area of that sump.
An evacuator pump suction hose reaches ALL the way to the bottom of the sump, sucks out more of the old, dirty oil, and suctions dirt/sludge off the bottom. It delivers the dirty oil DIRECTLY into an old, empty jug for taking to the seller or recycling center without slopping it all over your garage floor, hands, and tools.
When you accidentally replenish the machine with too much new, clean oil... the evacuator pump will SAVE you by allowing you to suck that clean oil right back out and deliver it into it’s own clean container you previously poured it out of... and you can store it until the next time you change oil.
If you have a Kubtoa RTV with a skid-plate... you no longer have to find your Metric socket to remove the skid plate before you switch to your SAE socket to pull the drain-plug you no longer need to remove.
It can be used to suck out water, anti-freeze, and many other liquids from where you don’t want them. The evacuator pump can be purchased that runs on 12 volts, compressed air (yes, it still sucks by using an internal venturi effect), or 120 volt house current. There are even some rare ones that can use a shop vacuum.
I bought this one for $29 and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZVZH7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are sometimes called EXTRACTOR pumps and sometimes referred to as EVACUATOR pump and there are even some that have their own hand-pump that need no electrical or shop-power at all. They can cost less than $20 at Amazon (dot) com.
Hope this helps. If you take my suggestion, you will be so pleased with the better method to get old oil out of your machine. Promise.
 

doglover

New member

Equipment
B7500, ZD331
Jun 12, 2020
4
0
1
Waterford, CT
Been there, Done that. Know what you want. Got a better solution (at least in my experience.)
Buy an extractor or evacuator pump and leave your drain plug intalled permanently. Here’s how I came to that solution:
I own a couple of machines with quick-drains such as you are contemplating. Yes, they work. But you either still have to get beneath the machine and do 90% of what you used-to-have-to-do ...and it’s still messy.
Some of the easy-drains have permanent hoses attached. They are not really permanent. The rubber softens from the constant exposure to hot oil and eventually fails..hopefully not while you’re out in the field, on the lake, in the air, wherever.
The drain plug does NOT actually drain ALL the oil as you likely believe. They are either placed in a protected area of the sump which is above the lowest point of that sump.... Or they are installed thru a “bung” or “boss” which acts as a standpipe, preventing full removal of the oil. Dirt and sludge remains in the bottom-most area of that sump.
An evacuator pump suction hose reaches ALL the way to the bottom of the sump, sucks out more of the old, dirty oil, and suctions dirt/sludge off the bottom. It delivers the dirty oil DIRECTLY into an old, empty jug for taking to the seller or recycling center without slopping it all over your garage floor, hands, and tools.
When you accidentally replenish the machine with too much new, clean oil... the evacuator pump will SAVE you by allowing you to suck that clean oil right back out and deliver it into it’s own clean container you previously poured it out of... and you can store it until the next time you change oil.
If you have a Kubtoa RTV with a skid-plate... you no longer have to find your Metric socket to remove the skid plate before you switch to your SAE socket to pull the drain-plug you no longer need to remove.
It can be used to suck out water, anti-freeze, and many other liquids from where you don’t want them. The evacuator pump can be purchased that runs on 12 volts, compressed air (yes, it still sucks by using an internal venturi effect), or 120 volt house current. There are even some rare ones that can use a shop vacuum.
I bought this one for $29 and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZVZH7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are sometimes called EXTRACTOR pumps and sometimes referred to as EVACUATOR pump and there are even some that have their own hand-pump that need no electrical or shop-power at all. They can cost less than $20 at Amazon (dot) com.
Hope this helps. If you take my suggestion, you will be so pleased with the better method to get old oil out of your machine. Promise.
Wow... thanks for all the time you spent responding to my question. Thanks also for the information you provided about the suction method of removing oil. I have one of those that I bought at HF. I am embarrassed to tell you why, but I will considering the amount of time you spent on your reply.

I went to a nearby gas station to get some diesel fuel for my Kubota B7500. There is one station that is close to where I live. They only have diesel fuel at one of the pumps but they have it on both sides of the pump. However, and here is the issue, on one side, the diesel pump is on the right side and on the other side of the pump, it is on the left hand side--don't ask me. Anyway, on all my previous fill ups, I had always used the same side of pump...but on this one instance, I had to use the other side ...by know I am sure you have guessed the problem... .I inadvertently filled the tank with gas instead of diesel fuel. I didn't figure this out until the tractor started sputtering under heavy load, then light load and then stopped. Fortunately, I was able to pump out the gas and replace it with fresh diesel fuel along with a good dsse of SeaFoam and after a while everything went back to normal.

As for the new system I am considering, you still have to get under the vehicle but from there on it is unlike any other system I am aware of... I agree with your criticism of the units with permanent plastic or rubber tubes and how they soften or crack... in this system, once you replace the standard plag with their device, the way you drain the oil is to unscrew by hand the knurled metal cover plate. Then, and only then you attach a proprietary attachment which uses the same threads you just used to remove the cover. In the center of the attachment is some kind of pin that as you screw it in, the pin depresses a spring loaded cover internal to the the plug such that, as you screw it in, it allows the oil to drain out into a tube which is part of the attachment and is removed when you are finished draining the oil. As you unscrew the attachment, the pin is withdrawn and the internal cover closes preventing any more oil from coming out. the hose with attachment get stored until the next time and you replace the cover plate and you are done. I realize this doesn't address the inability to get all the oil out as you may with a suction device but still its pretty slick. Thanks again...

Geoff
 

GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,049
3,327
113
Texas
Wow... thanks for all the time you spent responding to my question. Thanks also for the information you provided about the suction method of removing oil. I have one of those that I bought at HF. I am embarrassed to tell you why, but I will considering the amount of time you spent on your reply.

I went to a nearby gas station to get some diesel fuel for my Kubota B7500. There is one station that is close to where I live. They only have diesel fuel at one of the pumps but they have it on both sides of the pump. However, and here is the issue, on one side, the diesel pump is on the right side and on the other side of the pump, it is on the left hand side--don't ask me. Anyway, on all my previous fill ups, I had always used the same side of pump...but on this one instance, I had to use the other side ...by know I am sure you have guessed the problem... .I inadvertently filled the tank with gas instead of diesel fuel. I didn't figure this out until the tractor started sputtering under heavy load, then light load and then stopped. Fortunately, I was able to pump out the gas and replace it with fresh diesel fuel along with a good dsse of SeaFoam and after a while everything went back to normal.

As for the new system I am considering, you still have to get under the vehicle but from there on it is unlike any other system I am aware of... I agree with your criticism of the units with permanent plastic or rubber tubes and how they soften or crack... in this system, once you replace the standard plag with their device, the way you drain the oil is to unscrew by hand the knurled metal cover plate. Then, and only then you attach a proprietary attachment which uses the same threads you just used to remove the cover. In the center of the attachment is some kind of pin that as you screw it in, the pin depresses a spring loaded cover internal to the the plug such that, as you screw it in, it allows the oil to drain out into a tube which is part of the attachment and is removed when you are finished draining the oil. As you unscrew the attachment, the pin is withdrawn and the internal cover closes preventing any more oil from coming out. the hose with attachment get stored until the next time and you replace the cover plate and you are done. I realize this doesn't address the inability to get all the oil out as you may with a suction device but still its pretty slick. Thanks again...

Geoff
That spring-loaded quick-drain valve has a Viton or similar seal which the spring/latch/pin uses to prevent drips between oil changes. When that seal gets old or gets a piece of debris in it or that spring weakens or fails.... you might be buying a new engine.
Better solution? ..... Evacuator/Extraction pump.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,339
2,010
113
Mid, South, USA
get an extractor!!

It is by far the most used and best tool I own, period (and I own a lot of tools).

How's it work? You stuff the tube from the extractor down in the dipstick hole til it hits the bottom of the pan. Then you turn on the suction, and walk away. Never touch the drain plug/bolt, don't have to climb under it, get dirty, cuss the japanese engineers that designed it, etc etc. Oil comes out while you're sitting in your easy chair having a glass of sweet tea.

I've heard people say that the evacuator won't get all the oil out. Yeah it will. It gets more out than draining the pan. There's only been one or two pieces of equipment that I work with that I cant use it (RTV500 and some of the kawasaki mules), all others get their oil sucked out. It can suck oil while I'm sharpening the blades, saves time, money, aggravation, a call to a customer wanting to know how they would want us to to deal with their stripped out oil pan , etc etc. If you don't have an evactuator, get one. Buy it, borrow, steal it, whatever. No don't steal one. You'll find a billion uses for it. I have one regret. I wish I'd have made mine a long time ago (yeah I made mine out of an old 8 gal air tank). Pump in, pump out, all pneumatic.

Mityvac has a manually operated one that works good too if you ain't got no air compressor, but if you do, get the pneumatic one. Harbor freight has a couple too, but I am distrustful of stuffing their cheap plastic tubing into an engine. Speaking of which, the mityvac tubes that I have are all well over 15 years old, and used many times a day 5 days a week every day from that day I bought them. Had one break and it was my own fault for stuffing it into a very hot engine; the engine was trashed and was going to be replaced anyway, I was just going to suck the oil out before pulling it (less mess). Had to have been over 250 degrees; the paint was blistering.
 
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Pau7220

Well-known member

Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Aug 1, 2017
785
279
63
Scranton, PA
Better solution? ..... Evacuator/Extraction pump.
Best solution... take the time to do it right and use the drain plug. Cut a piece of aluminum flashing to direct flow of oil into the drain pan.

Evacuators don't get everything, especially what gravity takes to the bottom.

Perfect example... Just serviced the Woods gearbox on my new to me Frontier finish mower. Pulled out all the clean, amber gear lube with a suction-discharge gun (evacuator). Put the plug back in then chained up the unit and stood it on end with the plug down. 10 minutes later I pulled the plug again... what came out was black disgusting crud which resembled 20k mile Diesel engine oil.
Was this a royal pita? Yes.
Did I save myself a future lower bearing / seal failure? No doubt.
Did the evacuator do it's job? Nope.
 
Last edited:

whitetiger

Moderator
Staff member

Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
2,989
1,441
113
Kansas City, KS
Been there, Done that. Know what you want. Got a better solution (at least in my experience.)
Buy an extractor or evacuator pump and leave your drain plug intalled permanently. Here’s how I came to that solution:
I own a couple of machines with quick-drains such as you are contemplating. Yes, they work. But you either still have to get beneath the machine and do 90% of what you used-to-have-to-do ...and it’s still messy.
Some of the easy-drains have permanent hoses attached. They are not really permanent. The rubber softens from the constant exposure to hot oil and eventually fails..hopefully not while you’re out in the field, on the lake, in the air, wherever.
The drain plug does NOT actually drain ALL the oil as you likely believe. They are either placed in a protected area of the sump which is above the lowest point of that sump.... Or they are installed thru a “bung” or “boss” which acts as a standpipe, preventing full removal of the oil. Dirt and sludge remains in the bottom-most area of that sump.
An evacuator pump suction hose reaches ALL the way to the bottom of the sump, sucks out more of the old, dirty oil, and suctions dirt/sludge off the bottom. It delivers the dirty oil DIRECTLY into an old, empty jug for taking to the seller or recycling center without slopping it all over your garage floor, hands, and tools.
When you accidentally replenish the machine with too much new, clean oil... the evacuator pump will SAVE you by allowing you to suck that clean oil right back out and deliver it into it’s own clean container you previously poured it out of... and you can store it until the next time you change oil.
If you have a Kubtoa RTV with a skid-plate... you no longer have to find your Metric socket to remove the skid plate before you switch to your SAE socket to pull the drain-plug you no longer need to remove.
It can be used to suck out water, anti-freeze, and many other liquids from where you don’t want them. The evacuator pump can be purchased that runs on 12 volts, compressed air (yes, it still sucks by using an internal venturi effect), or 120 volt house current. There are even some rare ones that can use a shop vacuum.
I bought this one for $29 and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZVZH7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are sometimes called EXTRACTOR pumps and sometimes referred to as EVACUATOR pump and there are even some that have their own hand-pump that need no electrical or shop-power at all. They can cost less than $20 at Amazon (dot) com.
Hope this helps. If you take my suggestion, you will be so pleased with the better method to get old oil out of your machine. Promise.
All diesel RTVs have a 14mm headed drain plug
 

GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,049
3,327
113
Texas
Best solution... take the time to do it right and use the drain plug. Cut a piece of aluminum flashing to direct flow of oil into the drain pan.

Evacuators don't get everything, especially what gravity takes to the bottom.

Perfect example... Just serviced the Woods gearbox on my new to me Frontier finish mower. Pulled out all the clean, amber gear lube with a suction-discharge gun (evacuator). Put the plug back in then chained up the unit and stood it on end with the plug down. 10 minutes later I pulled the plug again... what came out was black disgusting crud which resembled 20k mile Diesel engine oil.
Was this a royal pita? Yes.
Did I save myself a future lower bearing / seal failure? No doubt.
Did the evacuator do it's job? Nope.

Really? Did you “chain the unit up and stood it on end”.... when you tried the evacuator?

Your story is an example of apples/oranges.
Edited: (I apologize for the previous unfortunate and unkind choice of words.)
 
Last edited:

whitetiger

Moderator
Staff member

Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
2,989
1,441
113
Kansas City, KS
Really? Did you “chain the unit up and stood it on end”.... when you tried the evacuator?

Your story is an example of ignorance of method.
Actually, the only possible way to drain water, filings, and crud out of a vertical shaft gearbox is to turn it over. It is literally impossible to suck all the oil out as the worst is in and below the output shaft bearing. The gearbox has to be inverted so the oil runs out of the bearing, might as well just let it run out of the plug.
 

Pau7220

Well-known member

Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Aug 1, 2017
785
279
63
Scranton, PA
Really? Did you “chain the unit up and stood it on end”.... when you tried the evacuator?

Your story is an example of apples/oranges.
Edited: (I apologize for the previous unfortunate and unkind choice of words.)
Yes, really. Certified, inspected, lifting chains. Proper rigging with electric traveling I-beam crane. Took all of 2 minutes.

Suction-discharge gun was not "tried". ... It was used to remove the majority of the gear lube so I didn't have to deal with holding a drain pan waiting for 1.5qt to drain, or risk dropping it in the shop.

We're here every day giving advise to less experienced people in need of assistance. Always proclaiming OEM Kubota parts, chemicals, procedures, lubes, etc.. that being said when I see a page in a WSM that states using a fluid evacuator is an acceptable (or better than removing a drain plug) method of changing oil, I'll be convinced.
Until then, guess I'll remain old school.
 
Last edited:

doglover

New member

Equipment
B7500, ZD331
Jun 12, 2020
4
0
1
Waterford, CT
I am trying to replace the oil drain plug on my ZD331, (Kubota part number 15707-33750) with a replacement plug that permits faster and less messy oil changes. However, the company that makes that device needs to know the size and thread of the existing one. Unfortunately, I just changed the oil and the only way of figuring it out would be to take it out again and see the thread and size. Before I do that, I was hoping someone might already be able to tell me that information. I couldn't find it doing a Google search or on the tech specs for this model. Thanks for any help anyone can provide and for the time you spent reading this post.

Geoff
This is a link to the unit I was talking about... I don't think there is much chance the cap will come off accidentally, and also very unlikely that anything would get into the inside to disturb the mechanism. I haven't tried this system but it looks pretty good. Also you avoid a lot of the mess you get with other systems, excluding the suction method. I would be interested in what you and others think after viewing the video. The only downside I see is the expense, it's not cheap. I hope its okay to post the link.. Does anyone have experience with this method? If so, did you like it?
 

GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
6,049
3,327
113
Texas
...when I see a page in a WSM that states using a fluid evacuator is an acceptable (or better than removing a drain plug) method of changing oil, I'll be convinced.
Until then, guess I'll remain old school.
That’s exactly why I decided to buy an evacuator/extractor. I used to feel the same way as you expressed. I recently bought another piece of equipment with an engine and although not a Kubota and not a WSM, it has a typical drain plug...and it’s Operator Manual specifically recommended an extractor.
In fact, it’s drain plug is more convenient and less messy than any other machine I‘ve ever experienced. But the extractor method is safer, more convenient, and more thorough than drain plug use. (Happens to be a 4-stroke 150 hp Yamaha outboard. Ordinarily the engine hyd-tilt is used to raise the engine to remove the drain plug, then return the engine to an upright/normal position which allows the oil to drain without spillage via a short hose. Replacing the drain plug, as in a Kubota, includes a new plug-seal just like the copper seal on Kubotas. This is often missed, forgotten, or lost and the evacuator removes that possibility.
I doubt many folks in these forums have a “certified” chain-lift-hoist in their garages. And I’ll bet many folks don’t realize their drain plugs are NOT the lowest, most efficient method of removing old oil from engines. In recent years I’ve gotten lazy and allowed my pickup truck’s oil to be changed by WalMart while I shop. Those idiots used LockTite to seal my drain plug without my permission and when I discovered it I made them pay for a new engine oil pan/sump. The OEM pan/sump is sitting in my hangar as I write this. I should go take a photo to post in this thread.
The OEM engine drain plug allows what appears to be almost a half-quart of old oil to remain in the sump during oil changes.... and I have always run that truck UP ON RAMPS to afford a more complete draining (or so I thought before I saw the inside of the oil pan and realize the drain plug is not the lowest point.).
To my great surprise, using an evacuator/extractor actually removes more old oil than the factory drain.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,339
2,010
113
Mid, South, USA
We're here every day giving advise to less experienced people in need of assistance. Always proclaiming OEM Kubota parts, chemicals, procedures, lubes, etc.. that being said when I see a page in a WSM that states using a fluid evacuator is an acceptable (or better than removing a drain plug) method of changing oil, I'll be convinced.
Until then, guess I'll remain old school.

That's fine with me. Everyone has their opinions.

But I can tell you from a tech standpoint that evacuating saves time, saves a lot of aggravation, saves space, saves a lot of things.

Think about it, at least from a tech standpoint. I get a repair order for an oil change on, say, ZD28F-27. Pull it into the bay, lift it up, reach in there with a 14mm (I think) wrench, attach it to the drain bolt and turn lefty. It was not tight. Keep turning. The plug is not moving outward, it just spins. Stop right there, because the threads in the pan are stripped. Now I have to go call customer and explain to him that I cannot proceed with the oil change because the drain bolt is stripped and the pan would need to be removed in order to repair it properly (get all the shavings out). Customer says "I ain't never had no problem with it, you must have turned it the wrong way and now you owe me an oil pan". Just cost the dealer or shop a couple hundred dollars. A fluid evacuator? Never touch the pan. Don't have to lift the machine up to gain access to it. So it saves the customer a little money although the drain bolt will still be stripped. But if we don't touch it, how do we know that?

Or another scenario. Some equipment has the drain bolt directly above a frame rail or even a belt drive. Loosen the drain bolt, oil runs all over the frame, down onto the belt. This is more common than you think. Not much you can do about it either. You do the oil change, go wash it off the best you can (which is usually a lower powered pressure washer if you're at a dealer), and they spend a little time washing the area off. You can't get it all off, impossible since oil runs under the engine and into little nooks and crannies that you have no control over. Send it out, a couple days later the customer is back madder'n a wet hen griping about an oil leak and that the idiot grease monkey didn't tighten the drain plug or whatever. Again, fluid evacuator, suck it out of the dipstick tube/hole, no mess to clean up, no customer madness, takes a little less time, costs the consumer a little less labor. Win win.

#3 flat rate. Most techs work on flat rate labor. So for instance, the same ZD28F, might call for 0.5 hour labor for an oil change which should be close to actual, if you do it the old fashioned way, assuming it's clean and the drain bolt ain't stripped out. With an evacuator, you can stuff the tube down into the hole, let it suck the oil out while you're still working on that Grand L propeller shaft seal that you have split. Then it comes time to finish the job which requires little if any cleanup time, so it takes you 0.25 hour and you charge 0.50hr. You (the tech) just made a little money. Of if you work on actual time which very few do anymore, you just charged the customer half as much labor by evacuating oil as opposed to draining, and you got more out too.

#4 sometimes a component that requires a fluid change is impossible to get to, such as, well ZD28F deck gearbox. You have to remove the deck to get to the gearbox, and then drain it all over the top side of the deck requiring washing afterwards. With the extractor, you leave the deck on, stuff the tube into the top of the gearbox, suck it out, refill, done. No washing, might have a drop of oil left on the deck shell that wipes off with a towel. Outboard motors are notorious candidates for this type thing, but more so because the drain bolt is on the leg and when you take it out, oil runs all over everything making a huge mess. So you suck it out, zero mess, and if you're smart when changing the filter there is also zero mess. Takes a lot less time, saves you and/or the customer some aggravation.

I own an older Mustang (Ford) that has a 2.3L 4 cylinder. I do all my own work including some limited body repairs if needed, so when it comes time to change oil, do you think after putting in 9 hours+ at work, physically working on stuff out in the heat with mad customers and a jerk for a boss, that I really enjoy doing anything at home? Not at all! In fact I'm about ready to start paying someone else to do it. BUT along comes the Mityvac MV7300. Hmm. I wonder? Yep...stuff the tube down the dip stick hole, a long way down, til I hear it hit the bottom of the pan. Suck it out. I just turn on the air and walk in the house, grab a glass of sweet tea, sit down, pet the cat, talk to the girlfriend, start the grill so I can cook some fish or whatever, eat, whatever else, while the evacuator sucks the oil out of the pan which takes about 10 min on that car. Then Go out, remove the air supply and tube from the dip stick tube, reach in from the top, unscrew the oil filter, screw a new one on, and pour in 5 quarts of fresh oil. The only other thing I do is throw a puppy training pad underneath to catch a little dripping from the oil filter change since they put the filter on the side of the block (horizontal) so it makes a little mess. Start it up check for leaks, let it sit there a while after shutting it off, while I am eating dinner and having a glass of tea, go back out & double check the oil level is good, back it out and I'm done working for the day. Evacuator saves lifting and then supporting the car, also saves having to climb under it after laying on my back working on junk at work on a daily basis. I like what I do but it gets old after 30+ years.

On ATVs a lot of times you have to remove skid plates to access drain bolts. Well if you don't remove a drain bolt, you don't have to take the skid plates off, saves a lot of time there. On RTV-X1100's, that big center skid plate weighs about 40-50 lbs once it's full of mud/dirt/junk that they're known for, and when you take it off, that dirt falls right in your face, you eat some of it, gets into your eyes, ears, everything, just a pain in the neck....all to get to the drain bolt. Or you can stuff the tube down in the dipstick hole, walk off & do something else for a little bit, come back, refill, replace the filter with a new one (from the top) and enjoy. I prefer to work smart, not hard (if possible).

In none of these situations does the WSM ever state that use of an evacuator is mandatory or even suggested. So yeah, you can do it the old way just fine, makes no difference to me, but I value my time and my customer's time and money spent such that if I can save him a dime and/or make his life easier, I'll do my best to do so. Yeah for 10 years or so I did the old way and at the time we hired on a new tech who had a evacuator. I thought what is he doing? He had two mowers in there working on one and sucking oil out of the other. The more I watched him work, the more I realized that my stubbornness paled to his knowledge of the tool and how well it worked, so I invested, later built my own. Have not looked back since. To each his own, respectfully.
 

lmichael

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
643
283
63
Rockford IL area
Just came across this. With great interest. Because the oil drain bolt on my G2160 is not only partially stripped (well the oil pan not the bolt) thanks to the previous owner not being too careful and also it's in a godawful place right above the mower deck to where it's impossible to get a drain pan in place without removing the pain in the butt mower deck.
Lugbolt exactly which extractor do you use? Do you have links to it? I have air but prefer not to bother. Would rather use electric powered. Saw the recommendation for the one on Amazon. Still happy with it GeoHorn? I also see a bunch more on Amazon which look same but much less $$$
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,339
2,010
113
Mid, South, USA
I use this

well more specifically, I made my own using an old MV7300. I just used the venturi assembly, and attached it to an old air tank that I welded some fittings into. Mine holds 10 gallons and has pump out feature as well. Real convenient.

I have since found a few pieces of equipment that I can't suck all the oil out of the top. Mostly Polaris, I think I could fiddle around and get the tube to the bottom but it's not worth it. On those it's easy to just get under it and drain it.

If I don't know, I'll try to suck it out and then get under & remove drain bolt to see how much comes out. Most of the time if I leave the evacuator on it for 10 minutes or so, then remove the plug, zero comes out-not even a drip. On my personal equipment, this includes my ZG127S mower (Kohler SV840), my outboard motors, push mower (JD JX75 gen 1), and of course the car. I don't have a tube long enough to do it on the truck (old rattly 7.3 diesel, the dip stick tube is about 5 foot long) or I'd do it too. But in your case, I did many a G2160 and GR series mowers. On the 2160's the pan is shaped weird so you have to kinda turn the evacuator tube to get it to go down into the back of the sump, once it's in there it's good to go and will get it all out.

a lot of shops are using them, or a version of them--it saves them tons of time and money. I can't even begin to count how many times a customer called & griped because "we" (the dealer) supposedly stripped their drain plug....when it was impossible, because we evacuate, negating even touching the drain bolt. So whatever happened to that drain bolt, was out of our control. This was too common on some equipment because the drain bolt had a large head, but small threads so it was easy to put a lot of torque on it. They'd check it at the house when they get it back and crank it too tight, strip the threads out of the pan/block and try to fault the dealer.
 
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lmichael

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
643
283
63
Rockford IL area
So I ordered the MityVac 7301 extractor. It's pneumatic. Nice simple design. I have shop air so it should be a good choice. I rarely touch my car(s) anymore. So really this will be mostly for the Kubota, my walk behind and that's about it.
There was enough threads left in the oil pan for me to wrap the drain plug with teflon tape. It sealed up well so if I never have to touch it again that is outstanding.
The device will be here tomorrow. We should have decent enough weather during the week so should be good. I will report back how it works out.
Thanks for the tips
 

PoTreeBoy

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,944
1,622
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WestTn/NoMs
Can you get to both sides of a humped pan with 2 drain plugs? Is the suction tube stiff or flexible?
 

lmichael

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota G2160
Apr 23, 2021
643
283
63
Rockford IL area
OK got the machine warm by using it to chop leaves today. Brought in garage and hooked up the MightyVac. OUTSTANDING! Sucked it totally dry in nothing flat. No muss no fuss except for one thing I did. While removing the filter I dropped it, then it fell into the little catch container, knocked that over and fell on the floor. So I made a little mess. But oh boy I LOOOOOOVE that thing. Sucked the oil out of my little Honda walk behind mower as well. Nothing flat. Why did I wait so long to buy one of these things. It will be my new "go to" as well for when I want to do my drain/fills on our Toyota Highlander. I just wish it was easier to clean after use though.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,339
2,010
113
Mid, South, USA
Told you!

They are awesome-again-one of the better investments I've made. I am making another one for home use.
 
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