Rear grader blade max weight recommendation?

[KubotaHawg]

Been a bit since posting but researching rear grader blades and need some advice from the group: I have realized the need for a grader blade in addition to my box blade for maintaining our 6/10 mile private dirt road AND the ditches along to promote/maintain proper drainage. I think I would prefer a 7' blade for more reach but think I can get by with a 6' blade if it has useable offset and tilt functions.

My main question is max weight that my tractor will be able to use effectively. Our road is very rocky and steep but has a good base. Main problem is maintaining the ditches so that all these heavy rains we have had in NWA recently will quit washing our road down the ditches, and keeping them clean of leaves since my three neighbors don't clear their parts of leaves. So offset and tilt are pretty much necessity.

So here are the variables and main question:

L2800 gear MFWD tractor, 29 hp, 2536 lb, R1 tires set widest possible, tires filled

LA463 loader--I mention just to note front ballast for rear implement

Have a LP BB1260, weight 346 lb. ~100 lb log strapped on top still bounces around, and over any size loose rocks. Not heavy enough unless loose gravel/dirt.

Have a LP RCR1260, weight 496 lb, no problem with lifting (obviously, light duty)

Lift capacity for L2800 from tractordata: 1433 lb 24" from end of arms

Found a Bison 8' blade on CL this morning that checks all boxes but is 772# and think might be more than I need. I'm thinking 500-600# range to be heavy enough yet not too heavy for my little rig?
From what I have found researching the best made and most features are Rhino, Woods, LP, Bison--but my primary question is weight for my tractor.

 

[old and tired]

Lift capacity for L2800 from tractordata: 1433 lb 24" from end of arms....

772# is less than the lift capacity... I have ballast, about 1000 pounds, 55 gallon drum for grapple work... I think you'll be able to use the blade BUT only heading down hill!!! Which is what I do with my 6 foot Tufline blade.... For ditching, the blade follows my tire track. Not ideal but doable (and sometimes scary!!)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Get a 7' blade that weighs between 7-800 lbs. To light, and you are just wasting your time. The other thing when looking, specifically because you are cleaning out ditches, get one with more than 24" of offset capability. I know that Land Pride has an RPT3584 that offsets 30".
I also very highly recommend skid shoes. Not everyone likes them, but after not having them and then having them, I would not be without them.
An RBT3584 is on my wish list for my 32hp tractor.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

My 2 cents.

In my experience, back blades are good for snow clearing and spreading, not much else. If your box scraper isn't doing the leveling, maybe try a land plane. Or get more experience with the box scraper.

As for the ditches, that is usually backhoe or manual labor territory. You might be able to tilt a blade far enough for parallel grading, but that is doubtful. If perpendicular grading a ditch, the bucket 100%, or box scraper in a pinch.

The beauty of a box scraper is it's strength. A simple back blade has little of that. And the bigger the back blade the less control you have.

 

[jyoutz]

My 2 cents.

In my experience, back blades are good for snow clearing and spreading, not much else. If your box scraper isn't doing the leveling, maybe try a land plane. Or get more experience with the box scraper.

As for the ditches, that is usually backhoe or manual labor territory. You might be able to tilt a blade far enough for parallel grading, but that is doubtful. If perpendicular grading a ditch, the bucket 100%, or box scraper in a pinch.

The beauty of a box scraper is it's strength. A simple back blade has little of that. And the bigger the back blade the less control you have.

My tear scraper blade weighs 1025# and it’s very useful for cutting ditches when tilted and offset. Rear blades are very useful IF they are heavy. Lightweight blades are near useless because they just skip over the ground. In fact I prefer them over box blades because they are more versatile.

 

[McMXi]

My tear scraper blade weighs 1025# and it’s very useful for cutting ditches when tilted and offset. Rear blades are very useful IF they are heavy. Lightweight blades are near useless because they just skip over the ground. In fact I prefer them over box blades because they are more versatile.

View attachment 152792

According to the literature, the NB80-240 is 850lb for the manual model and 913lb for the three-way hydraulic model. The NB120-240 manual model is 1,025lb. Looks like you have the NB80-240.

The Buhler/Farm-King I bought last year is an 8096 (Series 80) and weighs 970lb in the manual version and around 1,050lb with the three-way hydraulics. I only run it on the M6060 at present, and most likely wouldn't run it on the MX6000. It's a bit of a beast.

 

[jyoutz]

According to the literature, the NB80-240 is 850lb for the manual model and 913lb for the three-way hydraulic model. The NB120-240 manual model is 1,025lb. Looks like you have the NB80-240.

The Buhler/Farm-King I bought last year is an 8096 (Series 80) and weighs 970lb in the manual version and around 1,050lb with the three-way hydraulics. I only run it on the M6060 at present, and most likely wouldn't run it on the MX6000. It's a bit of a beast.

Mine is three way hydraulic, not manual. But you are correct that I read the wrong weight. It’s 950# in the hydraulic mode. I don’t have the tilt cylinder on the blade because I have the hydraulic tilt on the 3ph. It is a bit of a beast, but the MX6000 handles it well.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

My tear scraper blade weighs 1025# and it’s very useful for cutting ditches when tilted and offset. Rear blades are very useful IF they are heavy. Lightweight blades are near useless because they just skip over the ground. In fact I prefer them over box blades because they are more versatile.

View attachment 152792

Thank you.

OFFSET is key.

My mistake. I thought that the OP had a much smaller tractor than an MX6.

Be well. Tractor on.

 

[D2Cat]

OP has a 29HP, 2600# tractor. To clean a ditch he will need a wild blade to reach where he needs to go, and he needs the weight of the blade to cut the material. The blade will need to be offset to reach but there is a point where the reach and weight of blade into much material will "steer" the tractor.

I'd be inclined to buy the 8' blade for the reach and the weight. Plan on making several passes to be able to take less material and to control the tractor. Part of the blade (the far end from the ditch) will not be dragging, so that extra width will help with weight and not cause additional drag to help steering control;.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

OP has a 29HP, 2600# tractor. To clean a ditch he will need a wild blade to reach where he needs to go, and he needs the weight of the blade to cut the material. The blade will need to be offset to reach but there is a point where the reach and weight of blade into much material will "steer" the tractor.

I'd be inclined to buy the 8' blade for the reach and the weight. Plan on making several passes to be able to take less material and to control the tractor. Part of the blade (the far end from the ditch) will not be dragging, so that extra width will help with weight and not cause additional drag to help steering control;.

Yep. Tail wagging the dog. Right into the ditch if not careful.

 

[KubotaHawg]

Yep. Tail wagging the dog. Right into the ditch if not careful.

That was exactly my concern. I know my tractor will lift it, but again it is a light(er) tractor with only 29 hp so if I can't pull it the blade would be too big to be effective. Not to mention I don't want the blade to drive the tractor but the other way around. I do have plenty of down road to drag downhill though.

Happy Easter everyone and thanks for all the replies. I have a lot of experience with a box blade and it serves me pretty well even though light but it can only do so much, especially since it is only 5'--covers just outside the tracks. Best case is if I had my L4400 still and it wouldn't even be a question, but I know what this little tractor will do (and won't) and always cheaper to match the implement to what you have than get a bigger tractor.

I like the weight of the Bison but the offset is bolt adjust so a PITA to adjust.

The two easier manual offset mechanisms I have seen are where the entire boom swivels left or right, like a Rhino 6 I saw, or where the blade itself shifts left or right like on the LP. Seems like the Rhino mechanism would put a lot of stress on the 3 pt linkage but it looks really easy to adjust. Anyone have any experience with either? I think the boom swivel is the same as on the EA and Woods blades.

 

[KubotaHawg]

The Bison 8' I was looking at is a NVH240T model

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If anyone is serious about grading, they need heavy implements. Lightweight implements leave you with only being able to work with soft ground. The L2800 will handle heavy enough implements to get some work done. The secret is to purchase heavy implements and understand how to use them.

A person just needs to be willing to pay for them. The majority of people are not.

As far as the tail wagging the dog, the OP is only cleaning ditches, and yes that entails moving ground, he is not making a virgin cut.
I have a 12,000+ lb tractor with a 9' blade and a 35" offset capability. If I take too big of a cut, it will spin me around very quickly. Again, you need to know how to operate the equipment that you have.

 

[jyoutz]

Thank you.

OFFSET is key.

My mistake. I thought that the OP had a much smaller tractor than an MX6.

Be well. Tractor on.

Offset is indeed necessary to make a blade work well.

 

[old and tired]

If you are worried about the tail wagging the dog, scoop up 1000 pounds of rock in the FEL... ballast goes both ways.