Ran well and then..

[ventiman]

Okay my L1501 ( L185). Just got new battery and new battery cables even new ignition.

All is good.
Started up Just fine.
I go move it to another location in the yard.
And of course winter is not quite over so some more cold spells.

When I go to start it again as is now warm enough for spring to mow. I get nothing.
The oil pressure light lit up. Not even sure if the glow plug warmed up it didn't really seem to glow. And absolutely nothing no click or anything.
I checked the wiring everything seemed hooked.
But of course when I turn on the ignition the oil pressure light does not light up nothing.

Would there be a short issue in some of the wiring.

 

[Russell King]

Start by cleaning and tightening the battery cable posts and terminals.

If that doesn’t fix it then try jumping it to the starter post with a known good battery.

 

[ventiman]

Start by cleaning and tightening the battery cable posts and terminals.

If that doesn’t fix it then try jumping it to the starter post with a known good battery.

Post and terms are New. And post's are clean as battery is not 3 months old.
Installed the new positive battery cable 2 days ago. Got everything attached nice and firm turn on ignition I get an oil lamp lights up okay good to go.

No I don't seem to see the glow plug or the glow wire seem to light up I left it on for a little bit All I wanted to do was to try to get it to turn over.

I hear a click that sounds out of the starter nothing turn off the ignition check things over turn back on ignition no oil pressure light lights up nothing No power to the lights The fuses aren't blown.

It's a new interstate battery.

When I first installed the battery I of course put on a new grounding battery cable.
After a week or so I needed to move the tractor it started right up with no issues and I moved it to its current location after another cold spell and starts to warm up I'm wanting to do something on it I go through my normal routine and nada.
Since it's in its new location it has gotten a new ignition and I went ahead and put on a new positive red battery cable.

Even took the battery to an auto parts store and have a tested it passed.
I even have a DeWalt battery charger/tester/starter/reconditioner.
As my old one is well too old.

 

[Russell King]

Those are classic signs of a bad battery connection, but you seem ”sure” that you have good connections so move on to something else…

Like trying to jump it off using a second battery to the battery terminals or the starter post.

Like trying to clean the connection between the starter and the mounting surface and cleaning the positive terminal on the starter.

Try to remove the small wire (black with white stripe) from the solenoid and see if it gets 12 volts when the key is turned to start position.

Try to short the positive battery cable to the spade on the solenoid BUT BE CAREFUL! The tractor will be able to start and if it is in gear it will run over you and probably maim or kill you.

 

[D2Cat]

Is the ground connection from the battery to the tractor frame clean at the frame?

 

[chim]

Assuming the click you hear is the starter relay, I'd connect a meter right to the big positive terminal on the starter and to the case of the starter for the ground. Then while the key is held in the start position, read the voltage. A very low reading while trying to crank would indicate a connection problem somewhere.

 

[ventiman]

Is the ground connection from the battery to the tractor frame clean at the frame?

Yes

 

[ventiman]

Those are classic signs of a bad battery connection, but you seem ”sure” that you have good connections so move on to something else…

Like trying to jump it off using a second battery to the battery terminals or the starter post.

Like trying to clean the connection between the starter and the mounting surface and cleaning the positive terminal on the starter.

Try to remove the small wire (black with white stripe) from the solenoid and see if it gets 12 volts when the key is turned to start position.

Try to short the positive battery cable to the spade on the solenoid BUT BE CAREFUL! The tractor will be able to start and if it is in gear it will run over you and probably maim or kill you.

Had DeWalt charger do a recondition.
When it was done.
I turned on the ignition and I get oil pressure light active.

I go to process of starting it.
I just want to see if it'll turn over.
Light goes off. Nothing.
Even went to the place where I got the battery today and got a replacement free of charge of course. New battery in Make sure cables are obviously on a new clean post on a battery are tight.
I just turned on the ignition to see if I get a light nothing.

So ever since I moved it basically 50 ft.
After it started up fine and operated fine. From its new location I've had nothing but this issue.

I'm not a farmer I don't have a farm I just basically use it to mow most of my acreage.
And this is the first serious issue I've had with it ever since I got it which was back in the mid '80s.

The tractor is actually an L1501.

 

[Russell King]

Had DeWalt charger do a recondition.
When it was done.
I turned on the ignition and I get oil pressure light active.

I go to process of starting it.
I just want to see if it'll turn over.
Light goes off. Nothing.
Even went to the place where I got the battery today and got a replacement free of charge of course. New battery in Make sure cables are obviously on a new clean post on a battery are tight.
I just turned on the ignition to see if I get a light nothing.

So ever since I moved it basically 50 ft.
After it started up fine and operated fine. From its new location I've had nothing but this issue.

I'm not a farmer I don't have a farm I just basically use it to mow most of my acreage.
And this is the first serious issue I've had with it ever since I got it which was back in the mid '80s.

The tractor is actually an L1501.

I don’t think the model number will make any difference.

Have you tried any of the suggested trouble shooting suggestions you’ve gotten? They can help eliminate causes of the problem. Please tell us what you have done (what suggestions you took) besides replacing the other battery and moving it.

I would think that it could also be the key switch is faulty since it sends power to the dash when in the running position. I assume that the tractor still has a key switch and the glow plug/starter switch but if not you can post a picture of the dash so we can see what we are working with.

 

[ventiman]

I don’t think the model number will make any difference.

Have you tried any of the suggested trouble shooting suggestions you’ve gotten? They can help eliminate causes of the problem. Please tell us what you have done (what suggestions you took) besides replacing the other battery and moving it.

I would think that it could also be the key switch is faulty since it sends power to the dash when in the running position. I assume that the tractor still has a key switch and the glow plug/starter switch but if not you can post a picture of the dash so we can see what we are working with.

It has new ignition ( keyswitch) installed.
Still the original glow starter switch.

 

[armylifer]

I agree with Russell King that the ignition switch could be the problem. I suggest checking all the wiring to the ignition switch. You may have a corroded connection or loose ignition switch wire. Why was the ignition switch replaced to begin with? That is where I would look.

 

[ventiman]

I agree with Russell King that the ignition switch could be the problem. I suggest checking all the wiring to the ignition switch. You may have a corroded connection or loose ignition switch wire. Why was the ignition switch replaced to begin with? That is where I would look.

Well one by visual inspection It's as old as a tractor is
And second during parts of the summer of the wasp tended to make under the dashboard a bit of their home.
I was dealing with a family member in hospice care so I didn't use the tractor much.

So I decided to replace a ignition or key switch.

Was puzzling is something about the move of moving the tractor maybe 50 ft away.
Not a clue what that jarred loose or whatever.
And that was starting with the old ignition.

I mimicked. The wiring on the original to the new since it really isn't a good wiring diagram for such.

I'll try to take a picture of the wiring on the switch.

I have observed via videos on YouTube that the ignition or key switches always seems to be a culprit with older Kubota starting issues

not much content for old l185s

 

[Russell King]

I have posted the wiring diagram for an L185 here in post #26

Electrical - Wiring Diagrams

Hi I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a B2150. Big thanks in advance if anyone can share.

www.orangetractortalks.com

If you can run a wire from the positive battery post to the hot terminal on the switch (eliminating the original for a while) and see if that fixes it.

Or you could go directly to the starter switch and eliminate all wiring and switches between the battery and the start switch.

You are still not telling us if you attempted any of the suggestions- it would be helpful to know if the starter is actually capable of turning the engine when providing 12 volt positive voltage to the spade on the solenoid.

If you aren’t confident in performing these tests you can ask questions or have some friend help??

 

[armylifer]

I noticed that you posted about starting problems dating all the way back to May of 2018. The problems you were experiencing back then may be the same problems that you are experiencing now. What did you change to correct the problem back then? That may be the same corrective action needed now. Back then you posted some pictures that showed some after market wiring. Check that out. NIW and Russell King helped you back then. If their suggestions helped you get it started back then, maybe you should look at the same things now.

 

[ventiman]

I noticed that you posted about starting problems dating all the way back to May of 2018. The problems you were experiencing back then may be the same problems that you are experiencing now. What did you change to correct the problem back then? That may be the same corrective action needed now. Back then you posted some pictures that showed some after market wiring. Check that out. NIW and Russell King helped you back then. If their suggestions helped you get it started back then, maybe you should look at the same things now.

Ended up being wire insert was off on the starter. A thicket branch must of pulled it off.
Clipped it back on. And never any more issues..

Until at present.

summer of 24 was last it was really used for few days of mowing. Been idle pretty much since then..

 

[powerkraut]

Pop the starter and work backwards. I was chasing down an ignition issue for an hour before I realized I'd left the PTO engaged.

 

[ventiman]

Pop the starter and work backwards. I was chasing down an ignition issue for an hour before I realized I'd left the PTO engaged.

PTO is not engaged thats a given.

Can't start it unless clutch is pressed which presses up on a switch if not other wise just turning the starter knob doesn't do anything.

But oil pressure light doesn't even come on when I turn on ignition.
Only a few times has it. And when it does
I think I have a good shot at getting it started soon as turning starter knob get the glow plug (warm it up). Oil pressure light goes off. And glow plug doesn't even glow.

So I try to start the same procedure over again everything's off turn on ignition again no oil pressure light so I go through a hole ordeal trying to figure out why not.
I put multimeters on the ignition and it gets juice But when I turn it on multimeter shows no juice.

I'm now I got to the point where I pull out one of the fuses on the fuse box the second one from the left if looking at it.
Put them on meter on getting used to the switch then when I turn the switch on the switch is still getting juice.
I trace the wire from the particular fuse I pulled it goes to knob switch glow plug combo.
But even with the fuse pulled the oil pressure light does not come on.

 

[JonM]

anytime your going to charge a battery with a charger you really should disconnect it from the tractor/vehicle. modern computers and curcuits often dont take well to charging systems

 

[ventiman]

anytime your going to charge a battery with a charger you really should disconnect it from the tractor/vehicle. modern computers and curcuits often dont take well to charging systems

The only thing that's computerized etc is the charger.
Millennials and zoomers weren't even born when this tractor was new.