Quick hitches, adjustable widths, or Cat1 adapted to a bit narrower than Cat1 ?

North Idaho Wolfman

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I need to see some pictures of the tractor and picture of the actual implements.
 

icehorse

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I need to see some pictures of the tractor and picture of the actual implements.
Well it's your basic L3901 :) And the quick hitch is your basic QH-15. The thing that's a little weird to me is that the lower links are slightly canted in when the QH-15 is on. I would have expected the lower links to be square.

The lower pins on the baler (the green pics), are very, very close together. From the left pin to the right pin is only 23 1/2 inches. So the diagram from a few posts back is proposing a way to make the baler's lower pins wider.

QH-15.jpg QH-canted.jpg baler-low-pin.jpg baler-lower-pins.jpg
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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The arms on the tractor being cocked to the side, does not affect them one bit.

That baler has an extremely narrow set of arms, it's rather odd.
You need to have someone weld some brackets on it to make it work with the QA.
 

Runs With Scissors

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Just "spitballin" here, but could it be that it was assembled incorrectly originally?

I can't see it very well, but that "kick stand" looks oddly placed.

Can those arms on the green thing be swapped from side to side?
 

Hugo Habicht

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Here is a Wikipedia article containing the dimensions (I do not think there is a standard, as in DIN or ISO for those). As far as I understand there can be "narrow" Cat. 1 implements which basically have Cat. 1 pin diameter but the bar distance of the next lower category, in this case Cat. 0.
 

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GreensvilleJay

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late in looking but from the pictures.. if you remount the pins as 'outties' you should be CAT1 ? 23 1/2+1+1=2 1/2+ a bit ??
The problem may be the fixed spaced QH15 isn't wide enough. Normal 3PH the arms can move to install the implement.
The OM 'remove spacers' seems a good idea.
If you post the make/model of the nailer ,can google that and get more info. other coloured tractors might be using it, see what comments they have to say about 'fitment'.
 

icehorse

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L3901, box blade, tedder rake, mini round baler, drum mower, rotary cutter, misc
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The arms on the tractor being cocked to the side, does not affect them one bit.

That baler has an extremely narrow set of arms, it's rather odd.
You need to have someone weld some brackets on it to make it work with the QA.
This baler was made in India. My guess is that 3-points in India are narrower than in North America?

And yes, I'd love to get a welder to help out, but that's not going to happen before this haying season. So my question is whether my idea of stacking plates from a few posts back would work? And specifically what kinds of bolts would be strong enough?
 

Old Machinist

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Implement modifications are part of the quick hitch rabbit hole. Especially older and foreign made implements. The upside is once they are made to fit it doesn't have to be repeated and the advantages of the quick hitch are realized.
 
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icehorse

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L3901, box blade, tedder rake, mini round baler, drum mower, rotary cutter, misc
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OK. EASY solution..... remove the quick hitch, bailer should connect to 3PH fine.
Yeah, that's what I've done for the last several years. The problem is that the ball joints at the ends of the lower links get twisted to the limits of their movement range, the baler is quite heavy, and it feels like they will become a point of failure. If those ball joints freeze up, then I have a big problem.

So protecting those ball joints is a big part of why I want to widen the baler's lower pins. Being able to use the quick hitch would be a nice bonus, but it's more about the ball joints.

The other thing is that when I'm on side hills, it seems like the narrower the lower links the more torque they have to deal with. The leverage is much better when the lower links are wider. Again, for an L3901, a 1200 pound baler is a lot to deal with.
 
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icehorse

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L3901, box blade, tedder rake, mini round baler, drum mower, rotary cutter, misc
Aug 10, 2022
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hmm, back to plan 'b'. As OM said, remove spacer on the one side. Would that be enough of a gap ? Looks like 3 or 4 bolts, kinda easy to get to ??
I appreciate the ideas! That said, outside of both "spacers" are a bunch of complex moving parts. Linkages, drive chains and so on.

I'm inferring from all of these suggestions that my idea of stacking steel plates to widen the pins isn't popular? Any reasons why?

Thanks!
 

Old Machinist

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Just get this pair of extra long pins and stack plates, lock washers, flat washers, or what ever.