Problem removing B7100 HST engine

[Cryptohorse]

Got a blown piston which I tried to get at via the oil pan without success.

I'm now trying to pull the engine out the normal way not by splitting the tractor but by disconnecting everything attached to it and then lifting it out with a block and tackle so it can be worked on a workshop bench.

All 16 engine bolts removed plus all clutch bolts. Front drive shaft disconnected plus all hydraulic pipes.

Tried lifting with bock and tackle and there still seems to be something connecting the engine to the front axle plus the clutch seems reluctant to separate cleanly. There is a gap of about a quarter inch but worried about too much force needed which might break something.

Does anyone have a drawing of all the engine connection points plus whatever might stop the clutch from separating.

I feel that I'm only one bolt away from getting it out but which bolt and where is the problem.

 

[Mountainman]

With all 16 frame bolts removed and hydraulic lines removed the frame and axle should seperate. Sometimes the frame is on there snug and takes some extra force and sweet talking. Seperating the engine from the clutch housing it is easy to get the propeller shaft bound up in the clutch. Just try to keep it coming off straight as possible and work it apart. Sometimes pressing the clutch pedal while prying apart helps

 

[GreensvilleJay]

general comment,never done a B7100
1) engine needs to slide forward INLINE with tranny half. Any 'tilt' up,down, left ,right WILL 'bind' the two and be a problem

2) all support needs to be solid wood blocks NOT 'cinder ' blocks

3) once you have the gap, 2 same prybars at 9 and 3 oclock, should be able to move engine 1/2 away from tranny half

4) if engine 1/2 is moved with front axle, block steering knuckles from turning....BTDT...NOT 'fun'.

go slow, be SAFE, LOOK from all sides.... 2nd pair of hands helps....

 

[Cryptohorse]

general comment,never done a B7100
1) engine needs to slide forward INLINE with tranny half. Any 'tilt' up,down, left ,right WILL 'bind' the two and be a problem

2) all support needs to be solid wood blocks NOT 'cinder ' blocks

3) once you have the gap, 2 same prybars at 9 and 3 oclock, should be able to move engine 1/2 away from tranny half

4) if engine 1/2 is moved with front axle, block steering knuckles from turning....BTDT...NOT 'fun'.

go slow, be SAFE, LOOK from all sides.... 2nd pair of hands helps....

I think my problem might be that I have the engine secured vertically by the block and tackle for fear that it will fall through the frame and hit the concrete. From what you are saying the frame will prevent the engine from falling but will allow it to slide towards the front of the tractor.

However if I have any lift on the engine that will put it out of alignment with the clutch and transmission and "bind" them together. At present I have a half inch gap between engine and clutch at the top but the bottom is only a slight crack.

So would I be best advised to release all lift from the block and tackle in order to make sure that engine and clutch are perfectly aligned?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry but you are going about this all wrong!
I have done quite a few of these.
You can not remove the motor with the front frame in the way.

The easiest and safest way to remove the engine is like this:
There is a few differences between the HST and the DT versions.

Disconnect the battery
Remove sides and hood
Leave the engine attached to the clutch housing
Block the clutch housing up on the flat just behind the clutch.
(Use a floor Jack with handle pointed out the back if you will need to roll the back instead of pulling the motor forward.)
Remove the suction line and the pressure line off the Hydraulic pump:
Remove the front propeller shaft
Remove the steering of the steering box.
Remove the radiator and the radiator hoses.
Remove the bolts attaching the motor to the frame.
Remove anything attaching the motor to the frame.
Then roll the front frame out from under the engine
Use whatever you want to support the engine.
Now unbolt the engine and it pull it forward or roll the rear back away from the engine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

With an HST you will also need to remove the Hydraulic cooler lines:

 

[Cryptohorse]

I have actually dismantled most of the tractor so many of the tasks you describe are done already.

A few questions if I may.

What do you call the frame and how is it possible to roll it out from under the engine?

If you do this :-
"Remove the bolts attaching the motor to the frame.
Remove anything attaching the motor to the frame. "

What bolts do you remove at the end when you say :-
"Now unbolt the engine and it pull it forward or roll the rear back away from the engine."

 

[Cryptohorse]

I don't have the drag link removal tool that Kubota mention in their WSM. My Kubota dealer in Australia doesn't have them. Is there any quick fix for this? Without removing the drag link I can't separate the front wheels.

 

[Russell King]

I have actually dismantled most of the tractor so many of the tasks you describe are done already.

A few questions if I may.

What do you call the frame and how is it possible to roll it out from under the engine?

If you do this :-
"Remove the bolts attaching the motor to the frame.
Remove anything attaching the motor to the frame. "

What bolts do you remove at the end when you say :-
"Now unbolt the engine and it pull it forward or roll the rear back away from the engine."

I think you need to put some of the bolts back on near the bell housing before you remove the front axle or support both the engine and the rear of the tractor.

From what I’ve looked at there isn’t any “frame” other than the cast engine block and the bell housing and transmission case. Think more of splitting those into three separate parts. There is a small “frame” that supports the front axle and radiator area of the tractor.

For the drag link removal, you might need to use the “hammer it out “ method or look for some tie rod end removal techniques.

Good luck

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This it the front frame, remove the bolts in the circles to split it from the engine block.
The axle will be attached to it.
This will roll forward away from the engine.

This is the clutch housing that you support in the rear.
remove the bolts in blue to split the motor from the clutch housing.

Remove the nut and the washer, mark the alinem,ent of the shaft and the arm, i use a paint pen or put a dimple with a punch.
Use a simple 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the arm.
Harbor Freight, amazon, ebay, or most automotive parts places will rent you one.

 

[Cryptohorse]

I don't have the drag link removal tool that Kubota mention in their WSM. My Kubota dealer in Australia doesn't have them. Is there any quick fix for this? Without removing the drag link I can't separate the front wheels.

I managed to get the link removal tool after a 90 minute round trip. I've now removed the drag link so the front wheels can be detached. From the description above it seems that the front wheels are supposed to be rolled away from under the engine/clutch assembly which is still firmly attached to the back end of the tractor supported by a jack under the clutch.

In my case the front wheels and the frame they are attached to seems firmly wedged between the orange "prongs" of the main chassis and nothing I can do will release them. For instance if I increase the height of the supporting jack the wheels get lifted off the ground and they just hang there. Shouldn't the weight of the wheels and their supporting frame cause the whole wheel/frame assembly to drop to the ground?

My expectation was that if I could do that then the whole underneath of the engine would be freely accessible and I would be able to remove the oil pan and get access to the pistons.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

From NIW post #10 axle and front frame 'roll out' as a unit. BTDT on another tractor. Be SURE tires won't 'self steer' left of right, block the tie rod ends....or 2 guys, one per wheel to push roll it away from rest of tractor. might not be an issue if 4wd but boy it is with 2wd tractor !
Just THINK and LOOK before you get 'gung ho'.......

 

[Cryptohorse]

From NIW post #10 axle and front frame 'roll out' as a unit. BTDT on another tractor. Be SURE tires won't 'self steer' left of right, block the tie rod ends....or 2 guys, one per wheel to push roll it away from rest of tractor. might not be an issue if 4wd but boy it is with 2wd tractor !
Just THINK and LOOK before you get 'gung ho'.......

I am thinking and looking. I have no one to help so will have to get the wheels out on my own. Disappointing that they seem so well attached to the bottom of the motor.

Maybe the trick would be to tap the exposed axle from above with a crowbar on either side to see if that will encourage the frame and wheels to drop. Of course whatever I do will have to work in reverse when it is time to put it all back together.

 

[Cryptohorse]

I found it was a big help when I removed the brackets securing the FEL frame to the main chassis. Suddenly the wheels were able to move forward . Works really well when you get rid of things in the way.

 

[Cryptohorse]

I found it was a big help when I removed the brackets securing the FEL frame to the main chassis. Suddenly the wheels were able to move forward . Works really well when you get rid of things in the way.

Got the pistons out. Middle one has a cracked top edge. Others seem OK. I'll have to get a rebuild kit. Plenty online but no idea who is reliable. Any recommendations for a suitable supplier? I'm in Australia but most stuff seem to come from Asia or the USA.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you measured the cylinder size?
That will tell you if you need oversized pistons and rings
Or if you're going to need to pull the engine and have new cylinder sleeves installed and bored.

 

[Cryptohorse]

I've got a friend who builds performance diesels for boats. He's going to check out all the rebuild requirements. Who would you recommend for parts? Not keen on paying Kubota dealer prices.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've got a friend who builds performance diesels for boats. He's going to check out all the rebuild requirements. Who would you recommend for parts? Not keen on paying Kubota dealer prices.

Just about any kit is going to have similar hard parts.
One thing that you MUST get OEM / Dealer is the head gasket and O-ring.
Almost every aftermarket gasket I've run into is too thick, throws everything off.