Picked up a M4050

Toyman

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Been looking for the past few months, and made a few posts along the way. Well used (3500 hours) and needs a little tlc, but I think made a good deal with a 2 bottom plow. Anyway, its a hard starter and I just got done checking the resistance on the GP's. The results from back to front (grill) were as follows: 1.6, 1.5, 1.6, 4.7, 1.5, 1.6. From what I've read, they should read <1? so I'm planning on replacing and also changing all the fluids & filters. The front GP looks to be an enjoyable task to get to and remove. I've read that the intake needs to be removed, which seems also that the feed lines to the injectors & injection pump will need removed also? Any input on this would be great.

The tractor itself runs strong, holds all gears and has a weathered finish. Once I get the maintenance done and it running/starting reliably, I'll be using it for food plots on my hunting property (probably less than 100 hours a year).
 

GeoHorn

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That 6-cyl Kubota diesel should be a smooth runner.... they typically make a bit MORE than rated HP When actually tested.
Congrats on the good find!
 

Toyman

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Thanks! It does run pretty smooth and seems to have a good bit of power. I removed all the sheet metal to get a good look at everything. The power steering ram is leaky, but rest of the tractor is pretty clean and dry. Need to order a WSM, look into adjusting the clutch - it catches a little high, trace some wiring, and do a full maintenance. I checked the radiator and it was low, filled it up and fired up the tractor after giving the battery a good charge. (It started after a little cranking) The radiator cap needs replaced, it was puking water out the overflow even before it was warm. I ordered a new hour meter/tach cable since the one on didn't have the square drive, so that should be up and running soon, also ordered the linkage for the parking brake. Messicks said they had one in stock, but emailed that it was not and NLA. Just a piece of rod bent, so I'll take a look and see if I can fab one. The tractor will reside at another property with no electricity, so making sure the tires hold air and it starts reliably before I trailer it out are important. It will likely stay there spring to late summer after my last planting, and then spend the winters in my garage at the house. I didn't think I wanted a new project, but I got one anyway.
 
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Tx Jim

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I never knew or imagined that Kubota utilized a 6 cylinder engine in a tractor that small(< 50 HP). I once owned a M4900(5 cyl engine) that operated very smoothly. Today the manufactures trend is less engine L/CID & more HP.
 

GeoHorn

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I never knew or imagined that Kubota utilized a 6 cylinder engine in a tractor that small(< 50 HP). I once owned a M4900(5 cyl engine) that operated very smoothly. Today the manufactures trend is less engine L/CID & more HP.
My experience with internal combustion engines has run thru about 65 years of my 72 beginning at age 7 with a cast iron single cyl I turned into a go-cart, thru complete overhaul/repair of auto engines and corrective-action of new production at the dealership level, to working in repair and eventually finding my way into an assembly-line aircraft engine rebuild facility. But those were all spark-ignition (or in one case, nitro-glycerin ignition, no kidding.). No diesel experience however until a few years ago.

Being unknowledgeable about diesels generally and Kubotas especially... has led me down a path of discovery as I shopped for a replacement of my little 9N-Ford. I was surprised when I was choosing a M4700 that it had a 5-cylinder diesel and wonderd “What-the-Hey..?”

Odd numbers of cyls are not strange to me in radial aircraft engines and my awareness of marine diesels had exposed me to how common 3-cyl diesels are.... but I had never heard of a Five cylinder In-Line engine until this Kubota came into my view. I half-expected it to have a strange sound and vibration but is a surprisingly smooth engine.
 
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Toyman

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Here are a few pics in its current state. I fabbed a new parking brake connector and it's working well. Waiting on maintenance parts for fluid & filter changes. I've also been reading about the compression release on the 2600 engine. I mounted a choke cable to it that I can work from the seat. Hopefully that, a fully charged battery, new air & fuel filter, and glow plugs will help in consistent starting. Have to find a hydraulic shop to look into rebuilding the power steering cylinder. Was hoping to get my Messick's order this week, but looks like some of the parts are 5-10 days out for shipping. I believe I have a Ferguson 14-2 plow. It's in pretty good shape and almost all there, missing one jointer arm and both jointers, but everything is free.
Ferguson 2-12.jpg M4050 1.jpg M4050 2.jpg M4050 3.jpg
 

Toyman

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Just got an email from Messicks that the gasket for the hydraulic filter is NLA. Not going to know what the filter & gasket are going to look like until I remove, anyone know what the gasket material is? Possible to reuse old gasket or make one? Change fluid & leave filter alone?
 

Toyman

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Need a little help. Initially thought that the radiator puking thru the overflow was the cap. Got a new cap and same situation. Pulled the cap and started and it seems that there is exhaust coming thru the radiator neck. I pulled some fluid and it is green and tests well for anti-freeze. Can't really tell if there is oil in it. I would expect it would be pretty dark? Additional info, the lower heater hose doesn't seem to be getting hot and when it was puking with the old cap, the engine wasn't warm (or the coolant) and it was as if it was almost pumping out of the overflow, ie: not a steady stream like I would expect if it was steam. I do have some steam/smoke coming from the overflow tube also after the engine is warm. No visible leaks on the block or head.

Also, no white smoke from exhaust and oil looks good on the dipstick.
 
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je1279

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Sounds like it could be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Here is a recent thread that may be helpful.

 
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thebicman

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With the rad full does it immediately start bubbling? Sure sounds like a head gasket. Hopefully not a crack.
 

Toyman

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I'll have to refill and check. Can't do it til Monday though. Looks like I'll be pulling the head. Doesn't seem that there's a simple fix. On the plus side, changing all the glow plugs just got a bit easier.

Looking at the parts diagram, I'll need head gasket & shim, valve cover gasket, intake gasket, injector gaskets/washers, thermostat gasket. I know I'm missing something, any info would be great.
 

Russell King

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There may be an oring that seals an oil passage pipe that looks like a dowel pin.

Kubota will call it something odd, and I have no idea if it is on that engine. I have just read about it being missed in head repair posts.

I think they sell test kits (at auto parts store) to test radiator fluid for exhaust gases to verify that the head gasket is leaking
 

Toyman

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RK - found the O ring on the parts diagram for the block, thanks.

I just got in from the garage and did some testing. I filled the radiator to the bottom of the neck. I started the tractor and let it warm up. As it was warming, there was not a lot of movement. As it got warmer you can see wisps of smoke (exhaust?) coming from the neck. Once it got up to temp, it bubbled and puked (pics) and then settled down and was calm. I put the cap back on and within a few minutes it was puking thru the overflow. Puking when the thermostat opens and calm when it closes back down? Because as I backed it in the garage and lowered the throttle, it stopped puking again. I have a pic of a little coolant that I drained. I would have thought the oil & coolant would have separated, but it doesn't seem the case. Also a pic of the cap, exhaust? Have I just shown that I need to replace my head gasket? I have other pics and few videos just have to get them uploaded. Thanks for all the help! IMG_4107.jpg IMG_4108[1474].jpg IMG_4113[1479].jpg IMG_4115[1481].jpg
 

Toyman

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Can I use UDT in the power steering reservoir? OM calls for SAE 10 or 20.
 

Toyman

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Quick update. Pulled the head. Gasket didn’t have any noticeable failures. Some of the head bolts didn’t seem as tight during removal. The block and head both look on good condition. Called machine shop and head is being dropped off today for clean, magnaflux, testing and decking if necessary.
 
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GeoHorn

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Can I use UDT in the power steering reservoir? OM calls for SAE 10 or 20.
I don’t get it... WHY ... would you not simply use what the mfr’r specifies..??
Seems pretty simple to me.
 

Toyman

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I don’t get it... WHY ... would you not simply use what the mfr’r specifies..??
Seems pretty simple to me.
I don’t get it.. WHY...would you take the time to respond to a thread to NOT ANSWER A QUESTION?? Seems pretty simple to me. Appreciate the useless info👍
 
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GeoHorn

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I don’t get it.. WHY...would you take the time to respond to a thread to NOT ANSWER A QUESTION?? Seems pretty simple to me. Appreciate the useless info👍
The question I posed WAS an answer to your question as to whether you can use UDT instead of what the mfr’r specified for steering fluids. (Mfr’s Specifications = “useless info”...??). I didn’t realize you wouldn’t be able to understand the obvious.
No problem tho’... I can just click on “ignore this member” and avoid your foolish questions. Best of luck, you’re gonna need it if you continue being rude to friends.
 
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Toyman

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The question I posed WAS an answer to your question as to whether you can use UDT instead of what the mfr’r specified for steering fluids. (Mfr’s Specifications = “useless info”...??). I didn’t realize you wouldn’t be able to understand the obvious.
No problem tho’... I can just click on “ignore this member” and avoid your foolish questions. Best of luck, you’re gonna need it if you continue being rude to friends.
GeoHorn - I will only post this to try to help anyone else who may have this (according to you, foolish) question. And, I will thank you for calling me 'rude' and 'foolish' if not only for the information I researched and found below. Here is what I've found.
1) According to your logic, not only is UDT wrong for my power steering, it is also WRONG for the transmission/hydraulic system, as UDT is NOT 'Mfr's specified' in the M4050 Owners Manual. (Of course, this information is incorrect and UDT is fine for use.)
2) The OM calls for "SAE 10 or 20 oil" for the power steering circuit.
a) SAE 10 or 20 motor oi? or
b) SAE 10 or 20 hydraulic oil?
3) Most Hydraulic oils are ISO rated and there are few 'conversion' charts from what I've found, but:
a) ISO32 roughly equals SAE10 in hydraulic oil
b) ISO68 roughly equals SAE20 in hydraulic oil
c) UDT ~ ISO68 = SAE20
d) Super UDT ~ ISO32=SAE10

Didn't mean to start a 'thing', just couldn't find definitive info from a pretty vague OM specification.
 

tradosaurus

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GeoHorn - I will only post this to try to help anyone else who may have this (according to you, foolish) question. And, I will thank you for calling me 'rude' and 'foolish' if not only for the information I researched and found below. Here is what I've found.
1) According to your logic, not only is UDT wrong for my power steering, it is also WRONG for the transmission/hydraulic system, as UDT is NOT 'Mfr's specified' in the M4050 Owners Manual. (Of course, this information is incorrect and UDT is fine for use.)
2) The OM calls for "SAE 10 or 20 oil" for the power steering circuit.
a) SAE 10 or 20 motor oi? or
b) SAE 10 or 20 hydraulic oil?
3) Most Hydraulic oils are ISO rated and there are few 'conversion' charts from what I've found, but:
a) ISO32 roughly equals SAE10 in hydraulic oil
b) ISO68 roughly equals SAE20 in hydraulic oil
c) UDT ~ ISO68 = SAE20
d) Super UDT ~ ISO32=SAE10

Didn't mean to start a 'thing', just couldn't find definitive info from a pretty vague OM specification.
I try to tell myself "Would I post this answer just as if I was talking to the individual face to face"?
If the answer is no then I don't post it (usually). :ROFLMAO: