Pat's Quick Hitch compatibility with Gearmore's Tip and Tilt kit for BB1260 box blade

[DigitalDruid]

I'm thinking of getting Pat's Quick Hitch setup (Cat1) for my L2501DT tractor. I'm also looking at getting Gearmore's Tip and Tilt kit for my BB1260.
Does anyone have this combo (or similar) set up?
If so, did you install the Gearmore kit yourself?
The Gearmore dealer wants $3K for the kit installed, but they're an hour away and I want to avoid the hassle of renting a trailer twice and driving over there twice (assuming my 2006 Tacoma DualCab with towing package has the capacity to tow it).
I've attached the Gearmore brochure and a picture of my buddy's tractor with the kit installed for reference...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

TOP and TILT
With pats on it you top adjustment will be very limited.

 

[NCL4701]

Pat’s attaches pins on to the existing lift arms so it moves the implement back a couple inches. That generally means you’ll need a longer toplink to account for that extra couple inches. If the toplink in the kit is sized to match the stock lift arms, it will likely be too short to perform adequately with Pat’s installed.

If you opt for a quick hitch, that would move all three points of the three point hitch back so a top link matching the stock lift arms would work. If going with Pat’s you’d either need to let the supplier know that and see if they can swap out the usual top link for a longer one or source an appropriate length top link elsewhere.

If considering the standard kit + Pat’s, strongly suggest getting exact measurements on how far Pat’s extends back and exact measurements on the fully closed and fully extended top link to make sure it will provide adequate adjustment.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pat’s attaches pins on to the existing lift arms so it moves the implement back a couple inches. That generally means you’ll need a longer toplink to account for that extra couple inches. If the toplink in the kit is sized to match the stock lift arms, it will likely be too short to perform adequately with Pat’s installed.

If you opt for a quick hitch, that would move all three points of the three point hitch back so a top link matching the stock lift arms would work. If going with Pat’s you’d either need to let the supplier know that and see if they can swap out the usual top link for a longer one or source an appropriate length top link elsewhere.

If considering the standard kit + Pat’s, strongly suggest getting exact measurements on how far Pat’s extends back and exact measurements on the fully closed and fully extended top link to make sure it will provide adequate adjustment.

Pat's adds 3 to 4 Inches in length depending on version.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Pat's QH adds 3 3/4" to the draft arm length.
A good working length for you would be 23"-35".

 

[Gaspasser]

I have a Pat's Quick hitch and then added a top and tilt kit. Even after telling the dealer I needed the extra length, the top cylinder fully extended was too short. The dealer didn't seem to understand the isssue. So I went to a local weld shop and had them fabricate an "extender" which mounts on the tractor side to push back the top link attachment point (about 4.5 inches as I recall in my case), You will want to measure how far the Pat's pushes your mounting points back. Works great for me. Perhaps this solution will work for you?

 

[Russell King]

The installation of the top and tilt cylinders is very simple.

The installation of the valves is usually pretty straightforward but can become tricky if you don’t understand the names and locations of the connection points. Sometimes you have to remove parts of the tractor to get the valves installed and then replace the removed parts. If your friend is close by you can see how it is installed on his tractor and then decide if you are up to the task. I would say that if you can change the spark plugs and oil and filters on a modern car that you can install the valves yourself.

 

[jyoutz]

I have a Pat's Quick hitch and then added a top and tilt kit. Even after telling the dealer I needed the extra length, the top cylinder fully extended was too short. The dealer didn't seem to understand the isssue. So I went to a local weld shop and had them fabricate an "extender" which mounts on the tractor side to push back the top link attachment point (about 4.5 inches as I recall in my case), You will want to measure how far the Pat's pushes your mounting points back. Works great for me. Perhaps this solution will work for you?

Great idea

 

[jyoutz]

The installation of the top and tilt cylinders is very simple.

The installation of the valves is usually pretty straightforward but can become tricky if you don’t understand the names and locations of the connection points. Sometimes you have to remove parts of the tractor to get the valves installed and then replace the removed parts. If your friend is close by you can see how it is installed on his tractor and then decide if you are up to the task. I would say that if you can change the spark plugs and oil and filters on a modern car that you can install the valves yourself.

Unless you need to remove a very heavy large filled wheel.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To the best of my knowledge, the pin-pin length added on every Pat's QH cat 1 or cat 2 is 3 3/4".

 

[Gaspasser]

Great idea

Can't take full credit Jyou. Folks on this forum posted pics of such an adapter for this very issue. I could not find any commercially available so "designed" a mock up from the pics and measurements of my tractor bracket. I weld but am an amateur and by the time I sourced the steel and tools, it was better to hire a pro in time and cash savings. Had to clear the PTO shaft shield so my adapter has 2 holes instead of the 3 on the original tractor bracket. Was the cheapest/easiest fix in my case.

 

[DigitalDruid]

Folks: Thanks for all the replies.
I ordered a set of Pat's CAT1 QH units and an adjustable top link extender.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWFPB1ZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title]
The extender is a fully cast unit, unlike welded others...
We'll see how it works, but I suspect it will be fine...

 

[DigitalDruid]

Unless you need to remove a very heavy large filled wheel.

Agreed. I'll check out how his hydraulics are set up. I know he has 4 hoses from the control levers to the two cylinders, but I don't yet know how the setup taps into the overall hydraulic system. Should be easy to find out...

 

[Chanceywd]

Folks: Thanks for all the replies.
I ordered a set of Pat's CAT1 QH units and an adjustable top link extender.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWFPB1ZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title]
The extender is a fully cast unit, unlike welded others...
We'll see how it works, but I suspect it will be fine...

I don't know but wonder if that style extender is going to add a flex point and defeat the purpose of your hydraulic top link for some attachments. Like say wanting to make a box blade tilt back.

I made my own of the style Gaspasser referred to. That moved my top link out and works well.
I will add I don't have Pat's or any style of QH. But made my own T&T setup.

Bill

 

[DigitalDruid]

I have a Pat's Quick hitch and then added a top and tilt kit. Even after telling the dealer I needed the extra length, the top cylinder fully extended was too short. The dealer didn't seem to understand the isssue. So I went to a local weld shop and had them fabricate an "extender" which mounts on the tractor side to push back the top link attachment point (about 4.5 inches as I recall in my case), You will want to measure how far the Pat's pushes your mounting points back. Works great for me. Perhaps this solution will work for you?

GP: Thanks. Great idea. I'll probably get one custom-made as well.

 

[DigitalDruid]

I don't know but wonder if that style extender is going to add a flex point and defeat the purpose of your hydraulic top link for some attachments. Like say wanting to make a box blade tilt back.

I made my own of the style Gaspasser referred to. That moved my top link out and works well.
I will add I don't have Pat's or any style of QH. But made my own T&T setup.

Bill

Bill: I'd like to hear/see some details on making my own T&T setup like you did.
Specifically where to source the control valve levers, the hydraulic cylinders and related connection hardware. Can do?

 

[DigitalDruid]

I don't know but wonder if that style extender is going to add a flex point and defeat the purpose of your hydraulic top link for some attachments. Like say wanting to make a box blade tilt back.

I made my own of the style Gaspasser referred to. That moved my top link out and works well.
I will add I don't have Pat's or any style of QH. But made my own T&T setup.

Bill

Bill: I'd like to hear/see some details on making my own T&T setup like you did.
Specifically where to source the control valve levers, the hydraulic cylinders and related connection hardware. Can do?

 

[DigitalDruid]

The installation of the top and tilt cylinders is very simple.

The installation of the valves is usually pretty straightforward but can become tricky if you don’t understand the names and locations of the connection points. Sometimes you have to remove parts of the tractor to get the valves installed and then replace the removed parts. If your friend is close by you can see how it is installed on his tractor and then decide if you are up to the task. I would say that if you can change the spark plugs and oil and filters on a modern car that you can install the valves yourself.

Russell: Understand, thanks. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so building my own shouldn't be beyond me. The sizing of the cylinders is probably my main issue, then the supply hose attachments and then miscellaneous hardware.
I did check the other tractor and found out how/where the control valves were connected to the hydraulic system (two long hoses are connected to a supply "block" mounted under where your right foot would rest).

 

[Russell King]

Russell: Understand, thanks. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so building my own shouldn't be beyond me. The sizing of the cylinders is probably my main issue, then the supply hose attachments and then miscellaneous hardware.
I did check the other tractor and found out how/where the control valves were connected to the hydraulic system (two long hoses are connected to a supply "block" mounted under where your right foot would rest).

There should be another line from the va to the tractor called tank return. It may just be connected to a fill port. It dumps the lower pressure fluid from the cylinder (through the valve) back to the tractor sump.

The two lines you have identified are (probably) the power supply out of the tractor and the power beyond from the valve back to the tractor.

Not that you asked but people use Summit and other sites for valves. This site sells Bucher valves

MANUALLY CONTROLLED | Trausch Dynamics

Directional control valves allow fluid to flow into different paths from one or more soures. The direction of fluid flow control is controlled thr Electric, Electric/Manual, or Manual Available ...

www.hydraulicstore.com