Not all coolant drained from BX

tractormd

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Jul 24, 2021
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I have a BX that is two years old with 150 hours on it. According to the manual the coolant should be changed every two years. The manual said open either the radiator drain plug or the engine block. It said nothing about opening both. I opened the engine block because the radiator drain plus was difficult to access and I figured the block was lower. Unfortunately, only about 1.5 quarts (or half) of the coolant came out, maybe about another half of quart from the overflow tank that I removed with a syphon. So do I need to drain the radiator too? If so it seems easier just to remove the hose. I actually added 1.5 quarts of new coolant since I needed to move the machine for the night. Do you think this job is good enough to call it done for the next year or should I redrain the entire system?
 

DustyRusty

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On my old BX22, I would check the level of protection every year to make sure that I wouldn't wind up with a cracked block, and then every other year, I added a bottle of coolant conditioner and water pump lubricant. Never did anything else, and never had a problem in the 17 + - years that I owned the tractor. I tried draining the radiator but the petcock was stuck after being 2 years old, so I decided that I didn't want to gamble breaking it off or worse, breaking the bottom of the radiator. I have seen some coolant by Prestone (I believe) at Walmart that was advertised on the bottle as being a 10-year coolant.
I dread the thought of draining the coolant in the BX23S since it has a cab and it was extremely difficult to get the air out of the heater core so the heater would work properly.
I often wonder how many tractors get bi-annual coolant changes.
 

tractormd

New member
Jul 24, 2021
11
4
3
Maryland
On my old BX22, I would check the level of protection every year to make sure that I wouldn't wind up with a cracked block, and then every other year, I added a bottle of coolant conditioner and water pump lubricant. Never did anything else, and never had a problem in the 17 + - years that I owned the tractor. I tried draining the radiator but the petcock was stuck after being 2 years old, so I decided that I didn't want to gamble breaking it off or worse, breaking the bottom of the radiator. I have seen some coolant by Prestone (I believe) at Walmart that was advertised on the bottle as being a 10-year coolant.
I dread the thought of draining the coolant in the BX23S since it has a cab and it was extremely difficult to get the air out of the heater core so the heater would work properly.
I often wonder how many tractors get bi-annual coolant changes.
Another thing I don't understand is why they call it Kubota Extended Life Coolant if it only lasts two years?
 
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armylifer

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11 Years ago I put in some green colored 10 year coolant in mine. I guess it is time to change it this year.
 
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Soopitup

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Oct 25, 2018
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In automotive you never get all of it out. Some left over doesn't hurt, especially if you're not way overdue for replacement.
Without looking at where the hose or drain is (I have a ways to go before mine is due) I would do whatever is easier. Hose will be more mess.
However, diesels are supposed to use special coolant. I'd suggest sticking with those.

Another thing I don't understand is why they call it Kubota Extended Life Coolant if it only lasts two years?
Because diesel. They need (some) different additives than gasoline engines and those wear out faster.

I dread the thought of draining the coolant in the BX23S since it has a cab and it was extremely difficult to get the air out of the heater core so the heater would work properly.
I often wonder how many tractors get bi-annual coolant changes.
Things like this make me glad I didn't get the cab model....
 

DustyRusty

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In automotive you never get all of it out. Some left over doesn't hurt, especially if you're not way overdue for replacement.
Without looking at where the hose or drain is (I have a ways to go before mine is due) I would do whatever is easier. Hose will be more mess.
However, diesels are supposed to use special coolant. I'd suggest sticking with those.


Because diesel. They need (some) different additives than gasoline engines and those wear out faster.


Things like this make me glad I didn't get the cab model....
I am glad that I have a cab model every time I go out to move snow.
 
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BruceP

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Aug 7, 2016
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I have a BX that is two years old with 150 hours on it. According to the manual the coolant should be changed every two years. The manual said open either the radiator drain plug or the engine block. It said nothing about opening both. I opened the engine block because the radiator drain plus was difficult to access and I figured the block was lower. Unfortunately, only about 1.5 quarts (or half) of the coolant came out, maybe about another half of quart from the overflow tank that I removed with a syphon. So do I need to drain the radiator too? If so it seems easier just to remove the hose. I actually added 1.5 quarts of new coolant since I needed to move the machine for the night. Do you think this job is good enough to call it done for the next year or should I redrain the entire system?
A 'trick' which works for me is to use a leaf-blower. Open BOTH drains (or pull lower radiator hose) then use blower into the open radiator-cap. Not only does this expell over a quart more of fluid, also some sediment comes out too.
 

The Evil Twin

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mcmxi

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And never worry about a drain n fill again.
I personally wouldn't worry about the flush that K recommends in the FSM. I believe that to be totally excessive. I'll do a drain and vacuum fill every 2 years. That's no big deal. I do the same with the Super Duty and get 30 of the 38ish quarts out.
Neat tool. I'll have to add that to the list of things I need this spring/summer. I've had the MX for 2-1/2 years now and haven't flushed/replaced the coolant but will do so in April.
 

The Evil Twin

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Neat tool. I'll have to add that to the list of things I need this spring/summer. I've had the MX for 2-1/2 years now and haven't flushed/replaced the coolant but will do so in April.
I've used it on everything from BMW to VW. Amd everything in between. Great tool to have.
 
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mcmxi

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I've used it on everything from BMW to VW. Amd everything in between. Great tool to have.
I'm surprised to read that the MX only holds around 2 gallons of coolant. I'll be ordering that tool for sure.
 
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biketopia

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And never worry about a drain n fill again.
I personally wouldn't worry about the flush that K recommends in the FSM. I believe that to be totally excessive. I'll do a drain and vacuum fill every 2 years. That's no big deal. I do the same with the Super Duty and get 30 of the 38ish quarts out.

Came here to mention these. I've been a tech with the local water utility fleet for almost 20 years now. These vacuum fillers are life savers and time savers! Also like someone else mentioned, use the appropriate kubota/diesel specific coolant. Because of the nature of diesels, they tend to create super small air bubbles which causes cavitation and eats away at the cooling system from the inside. Obviously more prevalent in bigger trucks & equipment though.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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I've used it on everything from BMW to VW. Amd everything in between. Great tool to have.

+1 (y)

I have a similar tool. Works great and I have not found a vehicle it did not work on.

Edit: To the OP, every 2 years seems a little excessive to me, but if your bored, or if it makes you feel better, I suppose it can't hurt.
 
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D2Cat

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Came here to mention these. I've been a tech with the local water utility fleet for almost 20 years now. These vacuum fillers are life savers and time savers! Also like someone else mentioned, use the appropriate kubota/diesel specific coolant. Because of the nature of diesels, they tend to create super small air bubbles which causes cavitation and eats away are the cooling system from the inside. Obviously more prevalent in bigger trucks & equipment though.
The cavitation you mention is not a factor in Kubota diesels..
 
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biketopia

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The cavitation you mention is not a factor in Kubota diesels..
Why do you say it is not a factor? This thread from OTT and others online seem to counteract that statement. I'm not saying it's a huge problem like with the Ford 6.0 or the DT466's, but still a consideration. I've seen it in modern gas engines as well, right at the water pump housing, almost ate all the way through because of cavitation.

 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Why do you say it is not a factor? This thread from OTT and others online seem to counteract that statement. I'm not saying it's a huge problem like with the Ford 6.0 or the DT466's, but still a consideration. I've seen it in modern gas engines as well, right at the water pump housing, almost ate all the way through because of cavitation.

KUBOTA engines DO NOT have cavitation issues period.
Not anything more can be said on that issue.
 
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Soopitup

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KUBOTA engines DO NOT have cavitation issues period.
Not anything more can be said on that issue.
Interesting.
Why such a short coolant change interval then? Even pre extended service interval cars (30 years ago) weren't that frequent. And these don't have aluminum heads on cast iron blocks.

(Not arguing, curious)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Interesting.
Why such a short coolant change interval then? Even pre extended service interval cars (30 years ago) weren't that frequent. And these don't have aluminum heads on cast iron blocks.

(Not arguing, curious)
Safety (liability mitigation), if they put a short time line on it less chance of issues coming back to bite them.

Most antifreeze's will last long after the recommended time frames.
 
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