Need Advice -

[timoth]

Hello folks,

I admit that I AM new to tractors, so I have some questions for those with way more experience.

First off I own a BX2680, quick mount bucket, grapple. brush cutter ...stuff. Live in some hilly property.







First, what are the opinions on bucket "edge tamers"? With the quick mount bucket ... it seems to have a fair amount of play in it and digs in when I don't want it to. Also .. is this possibly an adjustment on the mounts that I haven't figured out?

Secondly - Wheel spacers, I'm thinking some wheel spacers will help improve stability and the sense of stability that's not there with the narrow foot print. If this is a solution I should consider, how much space should I aim for?

Thank you for any information and guidance.

 

[jaxs]

You have a nice little tractor and some really handy tools,use them as they were designed to be used and always use caution. Keeping center of gravity low as possible should become habit. Having equipment on 3 point for ballast is not a good idea. If you want ballast I suggest a dirt/concrete filled box on 3 point carried as low and close to rear axle as possible. Ditto for loader while using 3 point tools. Operating tractors is inherently dangerous, X that by 3 for novices so you must be 3 x as mindful as a professional.

 

[PHPaul]

The edge tamers will help keep it from digging in. That can be a double-edged sword, sometimes you WANT the bucket to dig. Not sure how easy they are to install/remove.

Not a huge fan of spacers, they put a lot of stress on axles and axle bearings.

Technique is more effective:

1. Go straight up and down steep places, avoid driving across slopes if at all possible.

2. Carry loads, whether front or rear, as low as possible. Keep the loader low even if it's empty.

3. Rear ballast for loader work is important. A ballast box is ideal, but ANYTHING is better than nothing. The further from the rear tires it is, the more effective it is, but it's also more likely to hit things and it's harder on the hydraulics. If using an implement as ballast, see #2.

4. Go slow, especially as you're getting used to using a tractor.

 

[jaxs]

The edge tamers will help keep it from digging in. That can be a double-edged sword, sometimes you WANT the bucket to dig. Not sure how easy they are to install/remove.

Not a huge fan of spacers, they put a lot of stress on axles and axle bearings.

Technique is more effective:

1. Go straight up and down steep places, avoid driving across slopes if at all possible.

2. Carry loads, whether front or rear, as low as possible. Keep the loader low even if it's empty.

3. Rear ballast for loader work is important. A ballast box is ideal, but ANYTHING is better than nothing. The further from the rear tires it is, the more effective it is, but it's also more likely to hit things and it's harder on the hydraulics. If using an implement as ballast, see #2.

4. Go slow, especially as you're getting used to using a tractor.

I want this new to tractors operator to have best information available so we need to discuss these assertions. From the standpoint of safe operation, A rotary cutter swaying in the breeze increases liklyhood of tumbling down hill than if nothing is on 3 point. As for intentionally extending ballast box farther from rear tires, that's just wrong. A ballast box flapping up and down,to and fro is just as bad as the cutter. While box will apply more counterbalance as its extended, it's very simple to throw additional weight in box and keep it close to rear of tractor.

Bottom line, it's poor judgement for anyone to max out loader on hillsides instead of making additional trips. Encouraging newbies to push the envelope isn't doing them any favor.

 

[D2Cat]

Not sure what you are referring to a 3 point rotary cutter swaying in the breeze. A rotary mower that is set up and adjusted with very little lateral movement does not swing. If the trail wheel is just off the ground it is a very stable counterweight when the tractor is operated UP and DOWN slopes as PHPaul suggested is his suggestion #1. His note #2 also reminds the operator to carry loads as low as possible.

If a new operator follows PHPaul's advise I do not recognize where he suggest pushing the envelope of safety.

 

[PHPaul]

I'm not sure where that rant came from. At no point did I suggest maxing anything out or encourage a newbie to "push the envelope". In fact, I don't encourage ANYONE to take risks.

I will admit I didn't specifically state to be sure the 3 point is adjusted correctly for the implement attached and that's a valid point.

 

[JimmyJazz]

Familiarize yourself with the loader float feature. Look on YouTube. That might help you. Good luck.

 

[jaxs]

Fellers if you think a rotary cutter is superior to weight box closer to rear of tractor, so be-it but I have a different opinion.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Hey Timoth, welcome aboard! Nice set up you got there, I have grapple envy.

Your rotary cutter is just over 400 lbs. so it should do until you get a ballast box. As mentioned above keep it low (back wheel on the ground). It may tail drag or hang up if you have sharp dips and hills.

A ballast box would be more maneuverable and you can add or subtract weight as needed.

You could also get your back tires filled, adds stability AND weight for FEL work.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Also.
I'm not sure what you mean by "With the quick mount bucket ... it seems to have a fair amount of play in it".
The two locking arms should be fully engaged in the bottom slots of the bucket and there should be no play or gap. Is the bucket sitting flat against the SSQA? Are the loader arms bolted securely to the tractor frame, check the bolts.

 

[jyoutz]

Fellers if you think a rotary cutter is superior to weight box closer to rear of tractor, so be-it but I have a different opinion.

I have never owned or wanted a ballast box. Filled tires add 1000# and my cutter or blade adds from 750-1000#. I’ve always preferred having a useful implement as ballast.

 

[D2Cat]

I'm not sure where that rant came from. At no point did I suggest maxing anything out or encourage a newbie to "push the envelope". In fact, I don't encourage ANYONE to take risks.

I will admit I didn't specifically state to be sure the 3 point is adjusted correctly for the implement attached and that's a valid point.

My reply was to jaxs. No offense meant. I was backing you up!

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Welcome to the orange crush. Nice Kubota you have there!

If I were you i would gain experience with the bucket before throwing money at it. There's a good chance that with a few hours experience you'll be pulling off the bucket tamers and they'll be paper weights to you.

There shouldn't be too much slop in the bucket attachment. Post a picture of your quick attach to bucket mounts if you can. And the experienced guys on here might see an issue with it.

Hilly terrain can be scary, even for experienced operators. To add to what others have said:

Just remember; Travel straight up the hill, and straight down. Front of the tractor facing uphill - if you can. There aren't brakes on the front axle, so have it in 4WD always on hills. The only braking action to the front axle is thru the drivetrain and ONLY in 4WD.
Go (DON"T) downhill with a load in your bucket in 2WD and you might mess your pants. Most of us have done it once, most live to tell about it. If that happens drop the bucket to the ground immediately, (Slam the loader stick full forward), you might actually be able to stop before crashing into your pickup truck at the bottom of the hill. Or worse.

& Wheel spacers are not a bad idea.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I have never owned or wanted a ballast box. Filled tires add 1000# and my cutter or blade adds from 750-1000#. I’ve always preferred having a useful implement as ballast.

Me as well. I agree with that ^^^ post 100%.

But a ballast box is better than nothing.

 

[barts]

I'll chime in as well; I use our little B5100 on our hilly property to move logs, gravel, etc. I'll repeat:

• Go slow, esp. going down hills or when carrying things in the loader. You don't want to drop a wheel into a hole and launch the rig over.
• Turning on a hill with a load in the bucket can be a terrifying experience; keep that load LOW.
• You should be close to maxed out on your 3pt hitch if you're maxing out the bucket weight-wise. Too much weight on the front wheels is not a good thing.
• A box blade makes a nice counterweight; you can hang suitcase weights on the box if you need more weight.
  

Oblig photo of dubious tractor shenanigans: moving cedar logs w/ a home built log arch.

 

[PHPaul]

My reply was to jaxs. No offense meant. I was backing you up!

As was mine, D2. Thanks for the assist!

 

[BAP]

As was mine, D2. Thanks for the assist!

No matter what you say on OT, there is always someone who will get their panties in a knot over it.

 

[johnjk]

Welcome. I just bought edge tamers this past fall for winter snow removal. We didn’t get enough snow to use them BUT I left them on and when I was doing driveway hole filling this past weekend I discovered a bonus. Not only do they keep you from digging in and picking up rock from the drive, they create a nice level repeatable spacing for backdragging.
I have a B3200 and went with Brotek wheel spacers. It really improved the stability of the machine for me. Nice solid spacer design. I also filled my rear tires and used winter washer fluid rated down to -20F. Fairly easy project to do. I would have done beet juice but had no way of hauling the B3200 to the closest dealer. If I need more rear ballast I just hook up the box blade or land plane.

 

[Wooddog63]

I'll chime in as well; I use our little B5100 on our hilly property to move logs, gravel, etc. I'll repeat:

• Go slow, esp. going down hills or when carrying things in the loader. You don't want to drop a wheel into a hole and launch the rig over.
• Turning on a hill with a load in the bucket can be a terrifying experience; keep that load LOW.
• You should be close to maxed out on your 3pt hitch if you're maxing out the bucket weight-wise. Too much weight on the front wheels is not a good thing.
• A box blade makes a nice counterweight; you can hang suitcase weights on the box if you need more weight.

Oblig photo of dubious tractor shenanigans: moving cedar logs w/ a home built log arch.
View attachment 152613

I was in conversation with McMXI about my purchasing an MX 6000 to assist with my log cabin project. One issue we discussed was my wanting to know about pulling a Berkelman tandem lil 3 ton flat bed dump on a QHitch as it reached out further that the drawbar. The spec math look ok but no real info on the lower cat 2 lower links connected to a QH tow bar with pulling 9000lbs. I found out in the print the some QH tow bars say up to 3700lbs pound trailers only no additional load. What man does not push his equipment as you demonstrated. I love it! Nice log jockey by the way!
I found out from discussions with veteran tractor guys and said if I extended a long drawbar to extend past a QH used just for implementations with out a lower tow bar onto a heavy load it can be sloppy and dangerous turn on hills. Longer bars are ok for Improving flat field implements turning radius and don’t advise pulling heavy loads with extended drawbar .
My question to you, is how is that load to maneuver on say flat area. Did you pull that tree out with that tractor assembly?
Joe

 

[barts]

My question to you, is how is that load to maneuver on say flat area. Did you pull that tree out with that tractor assembly?
Joe

I try to balance the load as best I can; clearly here it wasn't that great. These logs had been left in a big pile along with fir logs too twisted to mill into siding. I spent some time cleaning that up; the B5100 didn't have enough pull to disassemble the pile, but my 4x4 F250 managed with a long chain and a front hitch.. Once the fir logs had been converted to rounds and moved elsewhere using the trailer my son and I built for the tractor, I could snake the log arch in and pick up the cedar logs. I then milled them w/ an Alaska mill (chain saw accessory) w/ a ripping chain into rough cut 2"x14" slabs; my wife used these to make a series of raised beds next the house protected by deer fencing.

Once the log is balanced preferably nose heavy on the arch, the tractor will move it ok. Obvious not a rig for side hills; I built the log arch to fit in the woods, but it's a bit long as it takes 14' logs.

We now have a 7000 lb JD 110 TLB which could have picked up this log w/ the pallet forks... but not gotten it into the right place. My brother and I have some logging coming up on the land we inherited from our parents; a bunch of dead firs that need to come down. We do need to wait until the ground firms up; we've had a wet spring here in the San Juan Islands.