Seal failing at the top is not a huge problem, a lot of oil would stay in and you would notice after cutting. The bottom seal failing you would not notice.
Mower maintenance
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
I would think if the bottom seal failed I would see oil on my garage floor. I am very on top of drips and drops. If I have a vehicle or machine that dares to leak a drop of anything it gets a full investigation and repair immediately. So honestly IDK that I'm overly concerned about it
Seals fail but this is a pretty low probability event so it isn't something I would worry about constantly inspecting. But if you are really worried, I would replace the lower plug with a sight glass plug and if a visual check shows the plug is no longer covered then there is an issue.
Or you could use a domed plug which allows some angle viewing for the fill plug.
On edit, looks like the forum software doesn't allow that link so just go to Grainger and search for Sight Plugs.
Rodger
Or you could use a domed plug which allows some angle viewing for the fill plug.
On edit, looks like the forum software doesn't allow that link so just go to Grainger and search for Sight Plugs.
Rodger
My understanding is that Butchs seal failed catastrophically (i.e. not just a slow leak) while he was cutting. Could have been caused by a branch or something hitting it. Maybe I should be more careful too where I go with my mower
certainly was not designed for cutting thick undergrowth ....And I will keep looking for those seals with metal protection over them, the normal rubber seals I got were not a good idea.
Branches and debris can cause a lot of "fun" with finish mowers. For many years I mowed with the Deere 955 compact utility tractor with 6' midmount mower that I bought in 1995 and the first year I had it I nearly ran over one of the front gauge wheels after a mulberry bush/weed snagged the locking pin out of the shaft.
The Deere has given up mowing duties to a Kubota F2690 so it now it gets used for loader, blade, roadside mowing, and tiller work. I really like the way the Kubota front mower with rear discharge works and this is now my third season using it. I did find the hub bolts on both of the deck gauge wheels loose at the start of this season at just under 90 hours. One of the front gauge wheels was wobbling and it was about to lose all of its bolts.
Other than that, the mower has been perfect. It is extremely convenient to use and service and I really like the tilt up deck. Yesterday I sharpened the blades, mowed 5 acres, blew off the grass and then pressure washed the deck and finished in just under 2 hours.
Rodger
The Deere has given up mowing duties to a Kubota F2690 so it now it gets used for loader, blade, roadside mowing, and tiller work. I really like the way the Kubota front mower with rear discharge works and this is now my third season using it. I did find the hub bolts on both of the deck gauge wheels loose at the start of this season at just under 90 hours. One of the front gauge wheels was wobbling and it was about to lose all of its bolts.
Other than that, the mower has been perfect. It is extremely convenient to use and service and I really like the tilt up deck. Yesterday I sharpened the blades, mowed 5 acres, blew off the grass and then pressure washed the deck and finished in just under 2 hours.
Rodger
I don't see how much if anything could get in there. There is a metal shield over the shaft and covering the end of the spindle.My understanding is that Butchs seal failed catastrophically (i.e. not just a slow leak) while he was cutting. Could have been caused by a branch or something hitting it. Maybe I should be more careful too where I go with my mower
And I will keep looking for those seals with metal protection over them, the normal rubber seals I got were not a good idea.
FWIW I stay pretty in tune with my machines so. Odds of something like that getting away from me are pretty slim. Sure, anything is possible.
Where does someone find a sight glass for that "level" plug? Saw RB mention one. Seems like a perfect idea rather than dealing with crawling under there with a wrench every time to check the oil on it
Both Grainger supply and McMaster Carr carry them, I buy more from McMaster but both are excellent supply houses.
Rodger
Do you know what thread size they are? I'd never seen them sold before. But, they really make sense
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
I change mine every 50 hours. I have been using a syringe with an attached clear plastic tubing that I can snake through to the bottom seal with the deck horizontal. I was surprised the first time that what I sucked from the bottom around the seal was nasty black. In subsequent oil changes, all the oil comes out looking like new.
You will need to pull one to measure because different gear boxes may have different plug sizes. Once you have the measurement, just choose one from the supplier, I don't believe either McMaster Carr or Grainger has a minimum order requirement and both provide fast service.
Rodger
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
This happened during a 6 hour mow. I always give the tractor and attachments a visual look see BEFORE I begin work. Whatever happened was catastrophically acute.... no warning in the pre-mow check.
Is there actually a vent on those gear boxes? If not, was maybe the oil level too high and pressure built up when the oil got hot? Just thinking loud here . Really like to know the reason for the failure.
You scared me a bit with that story, the gear price from Kubota is just ridiculous (and so are the second hand dealer prices) so it would mean a total loss for the cutting deck.
. Really like to know the reason for the failure.You scared me a bit with that story, the gear price from Kubota is just ridiculous (and so are the second hand dealer prices) so it would mean a total loss for the cutting deck.
I believe it is vented Hugo. But, even then, they do build up a bit of expansion. When I fill mine I am pretty careful to not exceed the level hole. I go slowly until I just see it peeking out. Then put the plug back in, and the fill plug.
But, I will say on Monday despite those cautions, I warmed up the box by running the deck a bit. when I pulled the inspection plug that oil was coming out pretty good (left a nice mess on my garage floor).
Honestly with all due respect to Butch, I've never in all my years of mechanical work (professional tech as well) have never seen an oil seal just "blow out" unless there was another failure somewhere up the food chain
But, I will say on Monday despite those cautions, I warmed up the box by running the deck a bit. when I pulled the inspection plug that oil was coming out pretty good (left a nice mess on my garage floor).
Honestly with all due respect to Butch, I've never in all my years of mechanical work (professional tech as well) have never seen an oil seal just "blow out" unless there was another failure somewhere up the food chain
So here is a funny thing. IDK how to measure threads
A skill set (like welding) I was never able to learn.Google "measure thread size" and you will get lots of information, you will need a decent set of calipers. Or if you have an old fashioned hardware store with people that know what they are doing then someone there can likely measure it for you.So here is a funny thing. IDK how to measure threads
Alternatively, pull the fill plug (cover the opening) and take the plug with you to one of the big box home stores and go to their fastener section to match the thread.
I have a "thread matcher" template that McMaster Carr sent me with an order probably 20 years ago
Rodger
You do it on the fill plug? I thought you put the sight glass on the plug used to check levelGoogle "measure thread size" and you will get lots of information, you will need a decent set of calipers. Or if you have an old fashioned hardware store with people that know what they are doing then someone there can likely measure it for you.
Alternatively, pull the fill plug (cover the opening) and take the plug with you to one of the big box home stores and go to their fastener section to match the thread.
I have a "thread matcher" template that McMaster Carr sent me with an order probably 20 years ago
Rodger
I meant check plug, I was thinking about a smaller garden tractor deck from another manufacturer I helped a colleague with last week where you had to fill through the check port. What I am suggesting is to pull the check plug IF the check and drain plugs are the same size like they are on my F series 72" rear discharge deck so you won't have fluid all over the place until you have the new site plug on hand.
If you can find a wide angle sight glass plug to fit, then you can use it in the check port and see the level from there. Otherwise put the sight glass plug in the bottom hole and it should always be fully covered and if not you have a leak.
Rodger
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
It is the same setup on my F series 72" deck and the 72" midmount deck for my Deere 955 is also vented and the Deere manual makes note to clean it every time you check the oil level.
Gearbox oil (and air) both expand when hot so if there isn't a functional vent then one or more of the seals will turn into a vent. In addition to fluid loss, when the breathing occurs through a seal then damage will occur as dirty oil and debris is pulled back in through the same breach when it cools resulting in damage to the seal/sealing surface. I modified the rear axle vent on a Cadillac ATS I owned because a poor design that resulted in the overly complex vent sticking causing both pressure or vacuum depending upon when it decided to stick.
Rodger
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