LED lights

[jyoutz]

I’m thinking about installing Led lights on the canopy of my MX6000. A eight inch flood/spot bar facing forward, and a 4 inch work light facing the rear. I have easy attachment locations under the roof of my canopy to do this. My question relates to wiring. I can buy a wiring harness for the lights that includes a switch, fuse, and direct battery connectors. But I’m wondering about the stubbed out factory wires under the fender that are designed for work lights. If I splice into these wires, can I avoid the battery connections, fuse and switch? On my old JD, I used the factory connectors and it was great. They lights activated when I switched on the factory headlights and shut off with the ignition switch. Will the Kubota factory connectors do the same? Is there a Kubota wiring connector built for this, or go I just use generic connectors and electrical tape? Thanks for any information you can provide.

 

[OrangeKrush]

I'm not sure about your tractor but my BX "probably completely different" had the stubbed wires out the back and I just tapped into those with a relay and my own switches and they work great. They work with or without key on. I'm sure someone will chime in before long but while you are waiting have you YouTubed it? Surely find something there!

 

[Jchonline]

Yes you can use the stubbed wires. They usually prewire those from the factory for the extra work light kits you can get installed. They will already be on an adequate fuse unless you put some monster light on them. Double check the current of the light to be sure it is in spec of the fuse on the lights circuit. I saw no reason to have them on a separate switch or circuit.

The Kubota connectors (at least on my M62) were standard butt splice connectors.

 

[Fordtech86]

I would go bigger light bars front and rear. Use the under fender wiring for the control/switch side of a relay, and a fused constant power from the battery cable connection at the starter for the load (light) power circuit to the relay.

 

[OrangeKrush]

I would go bigger light bars front and rear. Use the under fender wiring for the control/switch side of a relay, and a fused constant power from the battery cable connection at the starter for the load (light) power circuit to the relay.

Basically what I did, wanted power to them without having key on and without having factory lights on when not needed. Switched to control which lights I need and don't need.

 

[Fordtech86]

Basically what I did, wanted power to them without having key on and without having factory lights on when not needed. Switched to control which lights I need and don't need.

The BX has constant power to the work light connector? I used the work light circuit for my control side on my L because it was switched power with the key. Didnt want the lights to come on without the key on. Got 2 little ones that will play on it not uncommon to turn the key on and have every light on.

edit to add- my set up is likely over complicated for what it is

 

[OrangeKrush]

The BX has constant power to the work light connector? I used the work light circuit for my control side on my L because it was switched power with the key. Didnt want the lights to come on without the key on. Got 2 little ones that will play on it not uncommon to turn the key on and have every light on.

edit to add- my set up is likely over complicated for what it is

Yes constant power to them.. I have the main switch for front lights mounted under the seat hidden but reachable while sitting on it. And the two rears are switched off of it separately at each light.

 

[i7win7]

Basically what I did, wanted power to them without having key on and without having factory lights on when not needed. Switched to control which lights I need and don't need.

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[jyoutz]

Adding electrical devices to tractor

Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...

www.tractorbynet.com

Lots of good information here. And I’ll also check out the TBN link. I really want the lights to work only with the switch on and when I turn on the Kubota lights.

 

[jyoutz]

Yes you can use the stubbed wires. They usually prewire those from the factory for the extra work light kits you can get installed. They will already be on an adequate fuse unless you put some monster light on them. Double check the current of the light to be sure it is in spec of the fuse on the lights circuit. I saw no reason to have them on a separate switch or circuit.

The Kubota connectors (at least on my M62) were standard butt splice connectors.

Did you use a switch for the lights or do they work with the tractor light switch?

 

[Jchonline]

Did you use a switch for the lights or do they work with the tractor light switch?

Work with the tractor light switch…at least mine do. I did not run a separate wire/relay/fuse/switch.

 

[jyoutz]

Work with the tractor light switch…at least mine do. I did not run a separate wire/relay/fuse/switch.

Great. That what I’m wanting.

 

[rovalin]

That's not something I would do on my MX-6000. No, I don't know why. I haven't ridden a motorcycle too long. But I figured out that it would be a terrible idea. The light you get from the LED lights is aimed directly at yourself, not at the road. That means you have to turn your head back to see where you're going. Otherwise, you'll only see the stream of light that comes from your light. It looks different on the road. I would recommend experimenting with https://www.amazon.com/smart-light-bulb-bulbs-color/dp/B0922Q43LY/. These bulbs may give you more control over brightness.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

My BX23S has BOTH live and switched power available via 'bullet' connectors,power are the female, ground is the male.

 

[jyoutz]

That's not something I would do on my MX-6000. No, I don't know why. I haven't ridden a motorcycle too long. But I figured out that it would be a terrible idea. The light you get from the LED lights is aimed directly at yourself, not at the road. That means you have to turn your head back to see where you're going. Otherwise, you'll only see the stream of light that comes from your light. It looks different on the road. I would recommend experimenting with https://www.amazon.com/smart-light-bulb-bulbs-color/dp/B0922Q43LY/. These bulbs may give you more control over brightness.

My light is mounted to the canopy and is high enough to be aimed directly at the road ahead.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

My light is mounted to the canopy and is high enough to be aimed directly at the road ahead.

That looks really good. Did you consider at all about the light bar on the rops? I assume you have way better lighting the way you mounted. I looked at the make model you shared and it looked like I could mount that shade with my light bar on the rops as is…I still have not decided…I am flip/flopping about it. Anyways the way you mounted looks clean/factory. Nice job.

 

[jyoutz]

That looks really good. Did you consider at all about the light bar on the rops? I assume you have way better lighting the way you mounted. I looked at the make model you shared and it looked like I could mount that shade with my light bar on the rops as is…I still have not decided…I am flip/flopping about it. Anyways the way you mounted looks clean/factory. Nice job.

I didn’t consider the light bar on the Rops because I thought it would be diffused by the canopy. I did need to add a piece of flat steel to the underside of the canopy to mount the light.