L3301 Box Blade weights

ayak

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3301 HST
Feb 16, 2018
576
748
93
WV
Would like to get some fresh opinions on going up in weight to a 72”/515# EA Box Blade to replace a 60”/346# LP model.
I’ve since widened my L3301’s (filled) rear tires by 3” each, so the old 60” isn’t going to cover my tracks anymore.
I do occasionally work the BB on a slight grade, fwiw. I don’t have any problems ‘picking up’ a 600# rotary cutter, but ‘dragging’ a box full of gravel may be a different story.
Thanks in advance.
 

old and tired

Well-known member

Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
You might have to only drag a half full box of gravel... I have a 72" on my little L2800 and would not go smaller. You can always take smaller bites if the conditions and tractor dictate it.

I also have an extra 300 pounds of weight sitting on top of my box blade, heavier the better.
 

ayak

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3301 HST
Feb 16, 2018
576
748
93
WV
You might have to only drag a half full box of gravel... I have a 72" on my little L2800 and would not go smaller. You can always take smaller bites if the conditions and tractor dictate it.

I also have an extra 300 pounds of weight sitting on top of my box blade, heavier the better.
Thanks, reckon I can lengthen the top link as needed if I’m having trouble moving with a full box.
 

old and tired

Well-known member

Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
...lengthen the top link as needed...
That's where Top-N-Tilt hydraulics shine! Because once you stop to adjust the top-link, getting it going again with a half full box isn't going to happen. You can lift the 3 point hitch an inch or so to stop filling IF you feel the engine lugging down.

Building a trail/road, most of the heavy pulls were always down hill. Lightly smooth things out heading back up hill...
 

ayak

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3301 HST
Feb 16, 2018
576
748
93
WV
That's where Top-N-Tilt hydraulics shine! Because once you stop to adjust the top-link, getting it going again with a half full box isn't going to happen. You can lift the 3 point hitch an inch or so to stop filling IF you feel the engine lugging down.

Building a trail/road, most of the heavy pulls were always down hill. Lightly smooth things out heading back up hill...
I like the sounds of the Top-n-Tilt, but I’m not sure what all is involved on the back, hydraulics-wise. I added a Summit 3rd-function valve myself (for my new Grapple) but I had to do it with my Backhoe in mind. All’s good with that all in place, so adding any extra rear hydraulics may complicate things back there. The whole concept of rear remotes (if that’s even what we’re needing) isn’t something I’ve looked into adding yet. Anybody reading this about to place an order for their new tractor, take my advice and just pay to get things added upfront now, even if you don’t know, what you don’t know, at the time. Adding the 3rd Function wasn’t hard at all, but I’m guessing it won’t be likewise for adding more ‘stuff’ to the back (and I run that backhoe a lot)
 

old and tired

Well-known member

Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
Actually, If you don't mind getting your hands dirty AND spending time learning how the hydraulic system works. For less than what you paid the dealer for your Summit 3rd-function, you could have added a 4 spool valve to operate the grapple, Top link and side link and a spare to play with!!

I put in a 3 spool and mounted it just above the FEL controls so that I only needed to buy 1 extra hose (relocated the power beyond from the FEL to the new spool). The extra hose was to connect the high pressure from the FEL power beyond to the high pressure IN port of the new valve.

I did cut my FEL control stick down since I added a step on the left side of the tractor.
 

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ctfjr

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Equipment
L3800HST
Dec 7, 2009
1,719
1,944
113
central ct
I like the sounds of the Top-n-Tilt, but I’m not sure what all is involved on the back, hydraulics-wise. I added a Summit 3rd-function valve myself (for my new Grapple) but I had to do it with my Backhoe in mind. All’s good with that all in place, so adding any extra rear hydraulics may complicate things back there. The whole concept of rear remotes (if that’s even what we’re needing) isn’t something I’ve looked into adding yet. Anybody reading this about to place an order for their new tractor, take my advice and just pay to get things added upfront now, even if you don’t know, what you don’t know, at the time. Adding the 3rd Function wasn’t hard at all, but I’m guessing it won’t be likewise for adding more ‘stuff’ to the back (and I run that backhoe a lot)
fwiw I filled my rears and added 3" spacers on my L3800. I have EA's 6' box blade. They recommended I not go any bigger. There are occasions when the box fills that I do lift it ever so slightly to dump some material. Last fall I used the box and back blades to regrade my driveway. It was a pia on and off to adjust angles. A top and tilt would have saved me a ton of time.
That said I just finished installing 3 rear remote valves. Two for the top and tilt kit I have coming from FitRite (I also got all the rear remote components from Brian). The third is for the 'what you don't know'. Brian was super helpful in guiding me along. When I say I was a novice with hydraulics, its no exaggeration. It turned out to be a whole lot easier than my concern in doing it.
If you can handle Brian's long wait time for a top and tilt it may be something to consider.

piping remotes 1.jpg
 
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ayak

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3301 HST
Feb 16, 2018
576
748
93
WV
fwiw I filled my rears and added 3" spacers on my L3800. I have EA's 6' box blade. They recommended I not go any bigger. There are occasions when the box fills that I do lift it ever so slightly to dump some material. Last fall I used the box and back blades to regrade my driveway. It was a pia on and off to adjust angles. A top and tilt would have saved me a ton of time.
That said I just finished installing 3 rear remote valves. Two for the top and tilt kit I have coming from FitRite (I also got all the rear remote components from Brian). The third is for the 'what you don't know'. Brian was super helpful in guiding me along. When I say I was a novice with hydraulics, its no exaggeration. It turned out to be a whole lot easier than my concern in doing it.
If you can handle Brian's long wait time for a top and tilt it may be something to consider.

View attachment 56292
Which of the two 6’ EA’s did you end up with, the 450#er or the 515# one?