l3010

[JWII]

no power, reviewed all posts, new battery, cables, starter, ignition switch changed fuses. ????

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Have you checked the main fuse just above the starter?
And when you installed new cables did you make sure to install thew power feed wire on the terminal with the main battery cable?

 

[JWII]

yes, understand the process, just frustrated. new start relay also. the main feed would go through the 40 amp fuse. power there.

 

[Henro]

no power, reviewed all posts, new battery, cables, starter, ignition switch changed fuses. ????

I did read the previous posts.

What does no Power mean? Do you mean the starter will not turn the engine over?

If so, do you have the battery voltage on the starter main lug? Does it stay at the same value when you try to start the engine?

Do get the full battery voltage on the lug of the starter solenoid when you try to start the tractor?

Do you have a voltmeter so you can take measurements?

Tell us more details...

 

[JWII]

Ok, 12.85 v at the battery, 12.85 at the starter, 12.85 through the 40 amp fuse and 12.85 at the starter solenoid. no voltage at the ignition switch. going to unwrap the wiring harness behind the dash next.
bypassed the 2 safety switches already.

 

[JWII]

no drop in voltage at the starter when trying the ignition switch

 

[Russell King]

Ok, 12.85 v at the battery, 12.85 at the starter, 12.85 through the 40 amp fuse and 12.85 at the starter solenoid. no voltage at the ignition switch. going to unwrap the wiring harness behind the dash next.
bypassed the 2 safety switches already.

Before you dig into the wiring you can try a couple of other things that might tell you some things.

1) Take the solenoid wire (probably black with white stripe) off of the spade terminal. Then with a heavy jumper (some people use an old screwdriver) connect the male spade out of the solenoid to the positive battery cable post on the starter. Be able to remove the connection easily. You should get sparks but go ahead with the connection and the starter should turn the engine over. Have the key in the OFF position or the engine could start. Replace the original wire when you complete the test.

2) Take a wire that is red and the same gauge as the wire running positive power to the key switch. Disconnect the positive wire that is connected to the switch and replace it with the new wire. Then connect the other end of the new wire to the battery positive terminal. Try starting the tractor like you normally would and see what happens.

Test 1 will tell you if your starter and solenoid are working properly. You could take the starter off and get it checked out at an auto parts store.

Test 2 will tell you what happens if there is 12 volts provided to the key switch. (I am a little confused by you statement that you don’t have 12 volts at the key but you do have 12 volts at the “solenoid”. I assume that you mean 12 volts at the starter positive battery cable connection point that should also be feeding the key switch.

I am also assuming that the key switch wiring is individual connection points and not a plug style connection.

 

[ruger1980]

I would first double check the B terminal on the ignition switch for voltage. If none there Then go back and double check the voltage at the slow blow or JCase fuse. You need to back probe the connector and make certain you have voltage on the wire on the load side of the fuse.

If you have battery voltage at the B terminal of the switch then check for voltage at the AC terminal in the on position. Then check at the ST terminal when at start position.

Do this before trying to jump anything.

See info below..

 

[N3BP]

I'd also suggest rechecking the ground where it connects to the frame. Over time, this spot gets dirty. If the machine ever had a battery that leaked, it gets real nasty at that connection.

 

[JWII]

Thanks, ill get to it this afternoon

 

[JWII]

Test 1, starter is ok
Test 2, power from the battery to ignition, starts like normal.
Problem must be in the wiring around the 40 amp fuse.
PS. i had already changed the main ground

Found the problem, the 4pin connector for the ignition switch, battery wire had corroded inside and lost connection.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[RCW]

Test 1, starter is ok
Test 2, power from the battery to ignition, starts like normal.
Problem must be in the wiring around the 40 amp fuse.
PS. i had already changed the main ground

Found the problem, the 4pin connector for the ignition switch, battery wire had corroded inside and lost connection.

Thanks for all your help.

Glad you found the resolution and reported back.

You had great guys helping.

 

[JWII]

tonight, salmon, rosemary potatoes and broccoli.
65 year old and still trying to figure it out myself