So I just had my L2501DT delivered and am looking at box blades. I've read every thread I can find in trying to decide between a 5' and 6' box blade. I think a 66" would be ideal based on the tractor with R1's being 66" but trying to find a 66" is proving challenging. So here is a poll to let me know what size you are using on your L2501 or L2502. Maybe it will help me decide.
l2501 Box Blade Poll
- Thread starter dkforge
- Start date
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
I cast my vote for a 4 footer. However the ONLY reason I am using a 4 foot is that I had previously purchased it for my B7100. My soil is sandy , very little clay , and I have about over 1/2 mile of gravel road. I have used it now for 4 years , dug two ponds, cut trails and maintained the driveway with no damage but I tend to be a operator that does not push my equipment to the extremes.
IF I was going to buy one for my L2501 I would opt for a 5 footer.
Including a picture of what a 4 footer looks like on my L2501, R4's with no wheel spacers.
IF I was going to buy one for my L2501 I would opt for a 5 footer.
Including a picture of what a 4 footer looks like on my L2501, R4's with no wheel spacers.
My L2800 with R4 would be comparable to L2502 with R1/Ag tires... I used the 6 footer to build a road down to our creek. Working down hill was fine, heading uphill I would have to grab a bucket full of dirt to get better traction going up hill (and still not be aggressive heading up hill).
I've flatten some side hills to make flat camper spots. The extra weight of a 6 footer helps a lot to cut through fresh sod.
You could be able to stop that L2501 with almost any of the sizes, if it's adjusted aggressively enough. So, I don't get overly aggressive setting of the top link.
I've flatten some side hills to make flat camper spots. The extra weight of a 6 footer helps a lot to cut through fresh sod.
You could be able to stop that L2501 with almost any of the sizes, if it's adjusted aggressively enough. So, I don't get overly aggressive setting of the top link.
My dealer set me up with the land pride BB66" . It covers my R1 tracks and is no
problem at all. I think it is the perfect size for my set up. With loaded tires it is
also, the perfect ballast for the max lift abilities of the 2501.
problem at all. I think it is the perfect size for my set up. With loaded tires it is
also, the perfect ballast for the max lift abilities of the 2501.
bbxlr8
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 w/R14s, LA525, BH77, SGC0660, CL 5' BB, CL PHD, WG24 + Ford 1210 60" mmm,
60" basic one is the goldilocks one for me (with R14s).
My use case may be different than most - FWIW I tried to get by w/o & found that I totally NEEDED it for basic shaping and leveling for difficult soil w a lot of rock.
My use case may be different than most - FWIW I tried to get by w/o & found that I totally NEEDED it for basic shaping and leveling for difficult soil w a lot of rock.
Surprised to see 6 footer most popular. I think this really depends on what you are doing with it and the location you are at. Where I live we get frost, it was under an ice age so rocks and rock and more rocks is what you get when you dig stuff up. Clay is another issue as well, I have a lot of it on my property and stuff is sticky. So sometimes I feel like bigger isn't always better. I believe the most important part at minimal is to cover your track width and that's why I feel like the 66" box blades are the ideal size for the "small" L series. The large frame L series like the 4000 model a 72" would be better, perhaps bigger.
But it really depends on what you're doing. Just pulling really light pea gravel stuff then you can get away with a 6 footer or maybe a 7 footer but the more material in the box, the more weight the tractor has to pull and eventually just going to stop it in its track.
I'm still a newbie so I'm learning...take what I say with a grain of salt haha,
But it really depends on what you're doing. Just pulling really light pea gravel stuff then you can get away with a 6 footer or maybe a 7 footer but the more material in the box, the more weight the tractor has to pull and eventually just going to stop it in its track.
I'm still a newbie so I'm learning...take what I say with a grain of salt haha,
For me it comes down to covering my (spaced) R4 tracks and making sure I can at least have the option to head downhill, if needed—and there are plenty of hills, rocks, and clay to contend with here.
I mean you're right...it would maybe give me an extra 2 inches in both sides so I guess it's probably fine lol.
Depends which one....because the BB1566 is 450lbs. The BB1572 is 504lbs.
The BB2566 is 500lbs and the BB2572 is 550lbs.
Yep nerwin, I was referring to the BB1266. I've used it alot and have no bent anything.
I just hate the clips for the ripper teeth...I like how they are implemented on the 15 series. Plus its heavier better for ground engagement.
OntheRidge
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L47 TLB, Homestead 55" grapple, LP 1684 rear blade, WR Long 84" snowplow
Maybe take a look at Homestead Implements. I had their 72" Pinnacle series BB behind my L2501, pulled it with no problem unless I let it get full. Very good quality build.
https://www.ruralking.com/rk-by-king-kutter-5-box-blade-with-5-shanks-red-bb-60-rr
The 60" "Rural King" branded king kutter I picked up 3 years ago is 475lbs. I also only paid about $600 for it then. I've stopped my tractor from getting too greedy. In my opinion, the width should always cover the rear wheels on a CUT, then it's up to the operator to play with the attack angle and depth to keep from stopping forward movement. Top and Tilt is really, really handy when working with a box blade to shape land, cut a road, etc.
Larger, heavier tractors can go substantially wider because they have the weight and power to pull them.
The 60" "Rural King" branded king kutter I picked up 3 years ago is 475lbs. I also only paid about $600 for it then. I've stopped my tractor from getting too greedy. In my opinion, the width should always cover the rear wheels on a CUT, then it's up to the operator to play with the attack angle and depth to keep from stopping forward movement. Top and Tilt is really, really handy when working with a box blade to shape land, cut a road, etc.
Larger, heavier tractors can go substantially wider because they have the weight and power to pull them.
NvRudder
Active member
Equipment
L2501DT, LA525, R14's, Bison NVHA210 84" RB, Allied 60" SB, Diamond C 10k Dump
Have a 7' Rear blade vs Box Blade for my 2501DT
Let's me cut/maintain small irrigation ditching across the pasture...
Do have to go slow in case the end of the blade catches a rock and could pitch the tractor...
I don't have loaded tires...
Let's me cut/maintain small irrigation ditching across the pasture...
Do have to go slow in case the end of the blade catches a rock and could pitch the tractor...
I don't have loaded tires...
Good point about the clips, however the correct tool always in the tool- box
makes it a non- issue in my case. It would be a pain if it was more rippers to
deal with.