L2350DT flywheel resurface or replacement?

DrakeRemoray

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Jun 24, 2024
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Getting back to breaking apart the tractor to look at why the clutch was sorta working then stopped after installing new clutch and pressure plate. The flywheel was rusted pretty bad and I smoothed it out but still had imperfections.
Question is what is the downside to resurfacing the flywheel? I know that I will loose material, but what is the tolerance of the width so I don’t render the flywheel unusable. The flywheel has a $1200 price tag if it’s bought new….trying to avoid that at all costs!

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Russell King

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See this thread especially #50 and #53


My opinion is to clean it up and put it together. Since it is a tractor does it really matter if it has a smooth takeoff?

But I see that it is okay to machine it IF it is properly machined.

One other thing that you should know is that the flywheel will only fit onto the crankshaft in one position so get all the bolts started by hand and snugged up by hand before you go too nuts on thinking you have it on correctly. I recall that one bolt is out of position slightly so may not be really that obvious.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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DO NOT machine the flywheel.

Just a good scuff with 100 grit sandpaper and call it good.

Be mindful of the flywheel to crank pattern like @Russell King said.

Clean out the split pin drain and RTV the joint between the clutch housing to the bell housing.

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DrakeRemoray

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L2350DT
Jun 24, 2024
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Alvarado TX
DO NOT machine the flywheel.
Can you humor me and tell me why not?
Just a good scuff with 100 grit sandpaper and call it good.
I did that and it worked “sorta” for a good 15 min before I had zero power to the wheels.

I bought the recommended clutch and pressure plate from eBay….it just feels like either the pressure plate is not putting enough pressure on the clutch or the flywheel is not clean and level and not giving me a smooth area for the clutch to adhere.
 
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Russell King

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What state is your tractor in currently? Is it together with a non working clutch or is it split and that is the flywheel that you have removed?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Can you humor me and tell me why not?
I did that and it worked “sorta” for a good 15 min before I had zero power to the wheels.

I bought the recommended clutch and pressure plate from eBay….it just feels like either the pressure plate is not putting enough pressure on the clutch or the flywheel is not clean and level and not giving me a smooth area for the clutch to adhere.
Humoring...
Because it changes the dimensions too great for the clutch to work properly.
Kubota does not recommend ever turning a flywheel.

It sounds like someone might have already done something to it:
Does the WSM have the flywheel dimensions in it?
I have the WSM, I'll have to look later.

Did you adjust the the clutch linkage per the WSM?

Give me the listings for the disk and pressure plate that you got please.
Did you also change the pilot bushing and the throwout bearing?

Is the pic above of the flywheel before running it or after?

If before take a pic of it now after you ran it.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Humoring...
Because it changes the dimensions too great for the clutch to work properly.
Kubota does not recommend ever turning a flywheel.
I think thats dubious. Grinding a flywheel removes just a few thousandths. Thats nothing compared to the wear on the driven plate.

Dan

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D2Cat

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I think North Idaho Wolfman described your problem when he suggested someone prior had the flywheel machined. If you cleaned the flywheel and reinstalled with new pressure plate etc the machine would not fail to move after 15 minutes.

Here are some pictures of similar problem on an L2350 This engine had a freeze plug leaking that was on the back of the block in front to the bell-housing. I cleaned it all up, just like you did, and installed new parts with no further problems.
L2050 Clutch 010.JPG
L2050 Clutch 014.JPG
L2050 Clutch 010.JPG
L2050 Clutch 014.JPG
L2050 Clutch 018.JPG
L2050 Clutch 018.JPG
L2050 Clutch 024.JPG
 

SDT

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I think thats dubious. Grinding a flywheel removes just a few thousandths. Thats nothing compared to the wear on the driven plate.

Dan

View attachment 152173
Agreed.

Routinely done and makes no difference if, as is usually the case, the pressure plate mounting surface is also machined the same amount.

Still, save the expense if not needed.
 

SDT

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I think North Idaho Wolfman described your problem when he suggested someone prior had the flywheel machined. If you cleaned the flywheel and reinstalled with new pressure plate etc the machine would not fail to move after 15 minutes.

Here are some pictures of similar problem on an L2350 This engine had a freeze plug leaking that was on the back of the block in front to the bell-housing. I cleaned it all up, just like you did, and installed new parts with no further problems.
View attachment 152174 View attachment 152175 View attachment 152174 View attachment 152175 View attachment 152176 View attachment 152176 View attachment 152177
Now, that's ugly.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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First check your new clutch disk:
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Then check this way:
Put the clutch disk in the flywheel and check if it's taller than the edge:

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Give me a picture of the throw out bearing side:

When you installed the pressure plate did you need to suck it down with the bolts?
 

DrakeRemoray

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L2350DT
Jun 24, 2024
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Alvarado TX
Well we figured it out. Pressure plate is being held off too far and not allowing it to engage fully when bolted down. The rivets are holding it off. Going to order Kubota branded and get her going
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North Idaho Wolfman

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#40Fan

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OP, I'd machine that flywheel in a heart beat and never think twice. If you take it to a good machine shop, they'll likely also have spacers you'd add between the crank and flywheel that is the thickness of the material removed.