L vs LX

[PaulL]

As far as durability at higher HP, from what I have read it appears that the L2501s engine makes mid 30s in other applications. That it was retuned to stay under the emissions limit. If you advance the IP timing and add some fuel it will make about 35hp.

Yes and no. The block/displacement, yes. Not certain it has all the same internals, it's different than those high HP engines in having I believe mechanical injection. Presumably there are other parts different to - it is also built to a price point.

I personally would have no issue with putting a turbo on one if I owned one. But I'd also acknowledge that it's not risk free.

Of course, I don't need to. In my part of the world we don't have those specific emissions rules, and the L2501 is an L3200 down here. https://kubota.co.nz/product/tractor-l-series It looks like it was also an L3200 in the US around 2011, pre-emissions rules.
https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/6/5865-kubota-l3200.html

TractorData.com Kubota L2501 tractor engine information

www.tractordata.com

TractorData.com Kubota L3200 tractor engine information

www.tractordata.com

I can see it's 2200 RPM in the L2501, and 2800 RPM in the L3200. And the displacement is also a bit different, with the L2501 having a few more cubic inches. I'd hazard a guess that it'd be hard to get 30HP at 2200 RPM. You can obviously push up the RPM, but the tractor is geared for 2200, and the 540PTO will be at or near 2200rpm. Depending on what sort of implement you run it might not like running faster than 540RPM.

All these are surmountable things, and the turbo kit would deal with all them (it gives you 30-ish HP @ 2200RPM). But you definitely shouldn't assume it's super easy.

 

[Rdrcr]

The plan would be to pay cash for a used one.

As far as durability at higher HP, from what I have read it appears that the L2501s engine makes mid 30s in other applications. That it was retuned to stay under the emissions limit. If you advance the IP timing and add some fuel it will make about 35hp.

The L2501’s D1703 is manufactured for a variety of applications and power output varies based on regulations for its use. In the L2501 it is significantly detuned. For example, the Injection Pump timing is much more aggressive in the L3240 when compared to a L2501.

One thing to consider, however, is elevation. In high elevations, even tractors with factory fuel settings can have high EGT’s. We’ve been collecting data from our customers for the past year or so. Doing the Injection Pump shim mod and/or fuel mod can be cause for concern since those modifications further increase the EGT temperatures and you have no way of regulating those temperatures unless you turn the fuel down, thus reducing performance. The benefit of the Turbo is that you can control and regulate the EGT temperature by adding boost while simultaneously increasing the performance of the tractor.

Mike

 

[JeremyBX2200]

The L2501’s D1703 is manufactured for a variety of applications and power output varies based on regulations for its use. In the L2501 it is significantly detuned. For example, the Injection Pump timing is much more aggressive in the L3240 when compared to a L2501.

One thing to consider, however, is elevation. In high elevations, even tractors with factory fuel settings can have high EGT’s. We’ve been collecting data from our customers for the past year or so. Doing the Injection Pump shim mod and/or fuel mod can be cause for concern since those modifications further increase the EGT temperatures and you have no way of regulating those temperatures unless you turn the fuel down, thus reducing performance. The benefit of the Turbo is that you can control and regulate the EGT temperature by adding boost while simultaneously increasing the performance of the tractor.

Mike

Yes, EGTs are a factor and even more of one on a NA diesel. I drove a NA IDI Ford for a lot of miles and added an EGT probe to keep an eye on things, especially when towing.

If I were to advance the timing and add fuel to the L2501 I would also add an EGT probe to make sure. I would do it with a turbo too to be safe.

Right now I am just gathering ideas etc. The purchase is a ways off.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Yes and no. The block/displacement, yes. Not certain it has all the same internals, it's different than those high HP engines in having I believe mechanical injection. Presumably there are other parts different to - it is also built to a price point.

I personally would have no issue with putting a turbo on one if I owned one. But I'd also acknowledge that it's not risk free.

Of course, I don't need to. In my part of the world we don't have those specific emissions rules, and the L2501 is an L3200 down here. https://kubota.co.nz/product/tractor-l-series It looks like it was also an L3200 in the US around 2011, pre-emissions rules.
https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/6/5865-kubota-l3200.html

TractorData.com Kubota L2501 tractor engine information

www.tractordata.com

TractorData.com Kubota L3200 tractor engine information

www.tractordata.com

I can see it's 2200 RPM in the L2501, and 2800 RPM in the L3200. And the displacement is also a bit different, with the L2501 having a few more cubic inches. I'd hazard a guess that it'd be hard to get 30HP at 2200 RPM. You can obviously push up the RPM, but the tractor is geared for 2200, and the 540PTO will be at or near 2200rpm. Depending on what sort of implement you run it might not like running faster than 540RPM.

All these are surmountable things, and the turbo kit would deal with all them (it gives you 30-ish HP @ 2200RPM). But you definitely shouldn't assume it's super easy.

The D1703 makes 35 gross hp in the L35, but it's turning 2700 rpm. It's also indirect injection vs direct (I think) on the L2501. I don't know how that impacts things. I did some parts research once, and if the parts would fit (big if) out of the L3301, you could get back to 540 on the PTO by swapping a couple of gears. The travel speed would increase, but that could be controlled unless you needed the slow end. There would need to be some governor modifications also.

Like you, I'm not sure there's much additional hp available at 2200 rpm without a blower.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

The D1703 makes 35 gross hp in the L35, but it's turning 2700 rpm. It's also indirect injection vs direct (I think) on the L2501. I don't know how that impacts things. I did some parts research once, and if the parts would fit (big if) out of the L3301, you could get back to 540 on the PTO by swapping a couple of gears. The travel speed would increase, but that could be controlled unless you needed the slow end. There would need to be some governor modifications also.

Like you, I'm not sure there's much additional hp available at 2200 rpm without a blower.

There are some pretty good YouTube videos with modding the timing/fuel and then doing a PTO dyno.

 

[jimh406]

As noted, the L2501HST is a lot more tractor than the LX and weighs it. It's also a lot more capable in every way. Even though tractors have the same HP they can have dramatically different amounts of torque a BX, B/LX, and L can all have about the same HP. If you can mow with your BX, you should be able to go up to a larger finish mower with the L2501.

Sure, you might be able to mow faster with more HP, but that depends on the ground and how bumpy it is and how often you mow. However, for simply finish mowing, you might consider a zero turn for that use. I use a generic riding mower for just my fenced yard. It's not fast, but it works.

With a HST tractor, you have options on power delivery. You don't have to push the pedal all of the way down, and you can go in L if you want.

A Grand L with cab would be great, but that's several steps up including several steps up in price.

 

[JeremyBX2200]

As noted, the L2501HST is a lot more tractor than the LX and weighs it. It's also a lot more capable in every way. Even though tractors have the same HP they can have dramatically different amounts of torque a BX, B/LX, and L can all have about the same HP. If you can mow with your BX, you should be able to go up to a larger finish mower with the L2501.

Sure, you might be able to mow faster with more HP, but that depends on the ground and how bumpy it is and how often you mow. However, for simply finish mowing, you might consider a zero turn for that use. I use a generic riding mower for just my fenced yard. It's not fast, but it works.

With a HST tractor, you have options on power delivery. You don't have to push the pedal all of the way down, and you can go in L if you want.

A Grand L with cab would be great, but that's several steps up including several steps up in price.

With the added torque I figured I could step up the size of the mower and tiller etc. If that turns out to be the case, then no power added needed. I mow about 3 acres of mostly open land. Tractor works well for that, but a dedicated zero turn for around the house might happen. That would be after the tractor though. I have an older Craftsman rider that I can mow with too.