Kubota L2350DT clutch replacement

[DrakeRemoray]

Oh that’s completely plugged!! And it doesn’t help when someone obviously replaced it with this….

 

[Anthony250f]

That’s one way to hide a leak lol

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Am I safe to assume that the flywheel goes back with the circle marked here?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Am I safe to assume that the flywheel goes back with the circle marked here?
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Probably, but make sure you can run all six bolts in finger tight. If not, rotate the flywheel one hole at a time until you can. Two of the holes are spaced slightly different to make sure it's indexed correctly.

 

[Oleracer]

A couple of things to be sure to do; 1- cut wood blocks (one on each side) to place on each side of the tractor frame at the front axle. These keep the engine from flopping to one side when it is separated. 2- mark the holes on the flywheel so you can install it in the same bolted position. When you go to install the flywheel bolts screw them several turns by hand to be sure you have the flywheel clocked correctly. If the bolts don't thread easily, quit rotate the flywheel one bolt hole and try again!!!!

I'd suggest blocking the rear tires so they can't shift forward or back. Use a long handled floor jack under the engine (with a piece of wood between the jack and engine oil pan), then when the lines and bolts are removed you just roll the front forward.

Take a lot of pictures from various positions to be able to refer back to questions as you reassemble.

All excellent advise. I will ad i have resurfaced 100s of flywheels in 55 years of working on tractor,trucks,race cars ,regular cars ,antique vehicles. Never had a trouble with clutch not working. But....always check flywheel bolts. I honestly dont like reusing them. Make sure the disc clears the bolt heads. Same with pressure plate. . Get or make a good alignment tool. Dont cheap out on anything. Inspect clutch fork and new throw out bearing. Take your time its not that big a deal. At 13 years old i was doing at least 3-6 per year with just 2 hydraulic jacks. Big tractors too. Good luck

 

[Oleracer]

Am I safe to assume that the flywheel goes back with the circle marked here?
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Yes.... make sure all bolts run in before you tighten

 

[Oleracer]

You guys are AWESOME! Thank you!

The new clutch is different than the old….any issues? View attachment 134998

Like i posted...make sure you put the disc in correct way. Make sure the disc hub doesnt contact the flywheel bolts. That clutch disc is for passenger vehicles with springs...it to stop chatter whish is not used in tractors. Not something i would use but it will work. Solid hub is more for stuff thats worked hard.
Looking at your pictures i also would be changing the rear main seal and cleaning up all that corrosion..
hey good luck !!!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

For those of you following along, this is what you need to do to make sure on the flywheel placement. Slight difference but you have to line them up!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When you put the flywheel on wrong you can actually see it.
And like @PoTreeBoy said just run the bolts all the way in by hand to verify, would do that even if you measure the hole spacing.

Not having a drain working will 100% cause what you have going on, so get a new drain for it, you can also safely run it with no plug in it till you get a new plug.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Does the new one just have more material that has not been worn down over time on the pressure plate??

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's a rivet, the height of it is irrelevant.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Clutch went in after a bit of back and forth trying to line the holes up. I had them correct it’s just jeeze this flywheel likes to stick and not move once it gets on a little bit. Clutch functions correctly and started putting it back together. Making sure, the bearing should rest against the clutch teeth the whole time and just flex the teeth when you push the clutch pedal correct??

I made the mistake of adding hydraulic fluid before letting the gasket sealer cure for a full 24 hours….I got impatient! So draining it back out and have to redo the gasket and I will be on a trip so it will have plenty of cure time.

Working on the injectors and gas tank and posting results in the other threads.

All and all this has been incredibly fun! Thanks guys for all your help and encouragement along the way!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Clutch is in, injectors rebuilt, injector pump taken apart and cleaned. Tractor fired right up! So excited that it’s going after sitting for 2 years!

I was able to get it to go into gear at very low RPM… I am thinking the clutch needs to be adjusted…I’m hearing gears chattering when I try to move it into gear. I know I adjusted it a couple years back when the clutch was eating itself alive but I could not tell you what I did exactly. Gotta dive in the manual again!

Can’t thank you guys enough!

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Hmmmm…. So, I guess I’m a little confused on the clutch adjustment. What is consider “free play”? Just measure between clutch pedal at rest and clutch pedal depressed? I originally got gear chattering when the clutch was depressed fully. The pedal immediately engages the clutch when pushed


I adjusted the clutch petal forward and it is better but still a gear chattering but much much less resistance in moving the shift lever. My concern is adjusting it too much? I don’t want it to be “riding” the clutch the whole time.

It should not matter what RPM you are at when depressing the clutch. I have to lower the rpm quite a bit for me to move the shift lever.

This is what it looks like with the clutch pedal at rest and when pushed fully forward.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Still stumped guys! I have adjusted the clutch foot pedal as far as I can so that the throw out bearing is not touching the clutch fingers when the clutch pedal is in the resting position. It’s like I just need more throw on the pedal for the throw out bearing to fully press the clutch fingers all the way in. The tractor is for sure in gear with the clutch pressed all the way in. The PTO is live with the clutch pressed all the way in. The only thing I can think of is to remove this bracket so I can depress the clutch more in order for it to disengage.

I don’t really see any other option….
nothing changed except new clutch/pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearings. Was the flywheel machined down by the last owner?? Who knows. That’s the only thing I can think of that would change the engagement/disengagement of the clutch.
Thoughts?!?

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Here is the plan….cut the tab and move it forward. It does give me adequate throw and disengages the clutch.

 

[DrakeRemoray]

Did it, works great! Clutch completely disconnects. We are in business!