Is kubota's QC slipping? GR2120 /B3200

[MILESKellogs]

Having bought many new Kubota's over the years, (The most recent a GR 2120) it seems that with each new unit I find more little problems, IE:
1. Belt idler arm tweaked. As the bushing in the arm wore a bit, it allowed the pulley and belt to start to start hitting the deck which resulted in the belt going south at 175 hrs.
Not sure if kubota sells the bushings separately? but I'm guessing they don't :shruggy: So I installed a Clevite bushing that was a perfect fit (clevite # 02705)in the arm. NOTE: The bushing will have to be cut in 1/2 or drilled for lubricant to enter. Also: IF you cut the bushing make sure to install it correctly. After the install, the belt was still riding to lower edge of the pulley. After tweaking the arm a touch, it's now running centered and I have ~.200" clearance between the deck & pulley with even more between the belt and deck .
2. Grease zerks for the front axle pivot being painted over to the point they wouldn't take grease. Remove paint with wire wheel and grease axle pivot.
3. The rear axle breather line became detached and puked a decent amount of fluid out. While there I noted a hose around the back of transaxle which was rubbing on the housing and lever. Reroute hose for clearance and securely mount breather hose
4. The unit always had a problem backing up, especially on a hill. Even on flat ground it was SLOWWWW! Due to other priorities, we lived with it. The unit also seemed to be a bit slow going forward but again, not having any time to look into it we lived with it.
5. It then developed a problem when releasing the pedal, and would continue creeping whichever direction you had been going, and not going to Neutral.
Having read of others experiencing the above two items I dove into resolving both of them during the 400 hour service. What I found the root cause of both was a loose set screw on the arm that activates the hydro.
For clarification, it is the last arm of the linkage and is connected directly to the shaft going into the hydro
The manual I have shows a removable panel to access the linkage. My unit (a 2017) doesn't have this removable panel . And of course, the location is almost inaccessible. With the pedal clamped in the fully depressed position, it gives you better visual access looking down from the top. I was able to get a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension and a short 4mm ball driver to engage the set screw. I backed the screw out as far as I dared (about 4-5 turns), Brake cleaned the area and applied red loctite to the stick end of a 6" long wooden Q tip which was the used to apply the loctite to the SS. I then tightened it as much as I dared.
I proceeded to verify and adjust the neutral position as well as the forward and reverse per the manual. The drawing for the forward speed, rear adjustment measuring point is a bit questionable (even with a magnifying glass) due to the rod being tapered at the end. I used the end of the rod at its full diameter.
The tractor now fly's in forward and has no trouble backing up, even on a steep grade
I hope this info will be helpful to other owners.
I haven't had the number of issues with the 3200 but do wish I had kept the 3030 as there were things about it that were more user-friendly IMO, Same goes for the 3150. It seems as though with every new unit they are changing things that don't need to be and ignoring those that do.

 

[McMXi]

Is Kubota quality slipping ... not in my experience based on four tractors and one generator purchased over the last six years, but that's a very small sample set obviously.

The zero turn and other mowers aren't made in Japan right? Even for models that are, dealers have to get involved with some amount of assembly, and whenever that happens it can result in inconsistent QC across the country. I've bought three of the four tractors and a generator from a dealer 3 miles from my house and they (the dealer) are excellent in every way and that's in part why I've had zero issues thus far.

 

[forky]

My only experience has been a perfect one, with 0 complaints in regards to everything.
Not even a loose bolt.

 

[lugbolt]

The GR2x series mowers were never great quality. Well, I take that back-the mower itself aside from the transmission ain't too shabby, but that transmission has been a black eye for Kubota since the day they came out. They were problematic, and I think the entire world knows about it. To add insult, they are quite expensive to repair too; often exceeding the value of the running machine.

B3350? Another black eye.

Both of these units were rushed to the market to compete with another brand's similar equipment, without much regard to longevity testing. Part of the 3350's issues are government mandate rooted, but I feel like Kubota still could have done a better job with it, and/or waited a while to get them on the market. I think they're gone now aren't they? Replaced by LX series?

 

[Orangeglow]

My experience is yes, it is slipping. My BX2360 was put together with much better quality than my BX2370. When I mentioned to the salesman that the welding area on my hood were the underside brackets attach was very poorly finished, he just shrugged his shoulders, and said, he had seen much worse ones on other units, and that most of his customers didn,t care, it is a tractor, not a show car. IF I ever trade for another Kubota, I will be checking the exact unit I buy much much closer before writing the cheque.

 

[TJP440]

YES!!!!! I compare them to Detroit in the mid to late late 70's. I believe the 1st or 2nd POST WWII generation is the reason. They had it TOO EASY, growing up, same as Detroit.

 

[TJP440]

Having bought many new Kubota's over the years, (The most recent a GR 2120) it seems that with each new unit I find more little problems, IE:
1. Belt idler arm tweaked. As the bushing in the arm wore a bit, it allowed the pulley and belt to start to start hitting the deck which resulted in the belt going south at 175 hrs.
Not sure if kubota sells the bushings separately? but I'm guessing they don't :shruggy: So I installed a Clevite bushing that was a perfect fit (clevite # 02705)in the arm. NOTE: The bushing will have to be cut in 1/2 or drilled for lubricant to enter. Also: IF you cut the bushing make sure to install it correctly. After the install, the belt was still riding to lower edge of the pulley. After tweaking the arm a touch, it's now running centered and I have ~.200" clearance between the deck & pulley with even more between the belt and deck .
2. Grease zerks for the front axle pivot being painted over to the point they wouldn't take grease. Remove paint with wire wheel and grease axle pivot.
3. The rear axle breather line became detached and puked a decent amount of fluid out. While there I noted a hose around the back of transaxle which was rubbing on the housing and lever. Reroute hose for clearance and securely mount breather hose
4. The unit always had a problem backing up, especially on a hill. Even on flat ground it was SLOWWWW! Due to other priorities, we lived with it. The unit also seemed to be a bit slow going forward but again, not having any time to look into it we lived with it.
5. It then developed a problem when releasing the pedal, and would continue creeping whichever direction you had been going, and not going to Neutral.
Having read of others experiencing the above two items I dove into resolving both of them during the 400 hour service. What I found the root cause of both was a loose set screw on the arm that activates the hydro.
For clarification, it is the last arm of the linkage and is connected directly to the shaft going into the hydro
The manual I have shows a removable panel to access the linkage. My unit (a 2017) doesn't have this removable panel . And of course, the location is almost inaccessible. With the pedal clamped in the fully depressed position, it gives you better visual access looking down from the top. I was able to get a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension and a short 4mm ball driver to engage the set screw. I backed the screw out as far as I dared (about 4-5 turns), Brake cleaned the area and applied red loctite to the stick end of a 6" long wooden Q tip which was the used to apply the loctite to the SS. I then tightened it as much as I dared.
I proceeded to verify and adjust the neutral position as well as the forward and reverse per the manual. The drawing for the forward speed, rear adjustment measuring point is a bit questionable (even with a magnifying glass) due to the rod being tapered at the end. I used the end of the rod at its full diameter.
The tractor now fly's in forward and has no trouble backing up, even on a steep grade
I hope this info will be helpful to other owners.
I haven't had the number of issues with the 3200 but do wish I had kept the 3030 as there were things about it that were more user-friendly IMO, Same goes for the 3150. It seems as though with every new unit they are changing things that don't need to be and ignoring those that do.

I stumbled across this while looking for the reason the hydro stat stopped responding while mowing. the unit is a GR2120 with ~ 500 hours on it. Has been well maintained and garage kept.
After locating the "somewhat hidden" neutral valve and towing it to my shop. The ball joint on the pedal linkage had just fell apart. Ii was quite surprised at that it was 5/16-24 thread.
Thought i would post this in the hope that it may help someone else.

 

[lugbolt]

I stumbled across this while looking for the reason the hydro stat stopped responding while mowing. the unit is a GR2120 with ~ 500 hours on it. Has been well maintained and garage kept.
After locating the "somewhat hidden" neutral valve and towing it to my shop. The ball joint on the pedal linkage had just fell apart. Ii was quite surprised at that it was 5/16-24 thread.
Thought i would post this in the hope that it may help someone else. View attachment 152446

i've had to replace more of those than I care to even think about. It's just part of owning a GR series mower, IMO. For what they cost, they are junk (IMO).

 

[D2Cat]

I stumbled across this while looking for the reason the hydro stat stopped responding while mowing. the unit is a GR2120 with ~ 500 hours on it. Has been well maintained and garage kept.
After locating the "somewhat hidden" neutral valve and towing it to my shop. The ball joint on the pedal linkage had just fell apart. Ii was quite surprised at that it was 5/16-24 thread.
Thought i would post this in the hope that it may help someone else. View attachment 152446

They are called a heim joint when you go to look them up.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Bearing-Thread-Self-Lubricating/dp/B0C7QMV7KG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1LKWT5YLY2MLK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2gHb555Vg7R9vh2z5LUNv-IZ5mjYgxQf0jUSUYTTgZlm7SqqKJ_ucyPIPwNFmi0pqCQaLERSvWauCu5lp5t82j0VQAmYLaziOBvV50KwUdEBSB-glyNCH1w9smvSHONtefcwcMZlsaZfvgaBnWtGPsBoKq8JiivCT5T99cX5iDeyI0svwp8xidpR4lo6eIHnVcVW35wC-0wr0P0YpqXko4s3ThhfcvZ2fdSxGa7BbDw.9AnegVCy-36v3LWo-RQKzcSCzzKYrE_rarpMQ2CUZEs&dib_tag=se&keywords=5%2F16-24%2Bheim%2Bjoint&qid=1744729050&sprefix=heim%2Bjoint%2B5%2F16%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[TJP440]

What you refer to is a Heim Joint or Spherical rod end

What The GR's use is referred to as a "Ball joint Rod end" or "Tie rod end" Tie rod end linky

I am not sure the spherical rod end would hold up in the environment it would be exposed to but then again neither did the "Ball joint Rod end" or "Tie rod end". A PP design that should have never been considered. Can you say Detroit mentality 1975 -88 or so

 

[Runs With Scissors]

YES!!!!! I compare them to Detroit in the mid to late late 70's. I believe the 1st or 2nd POST WWII generation is the reason. They had it TOO EASY, growing up, same as Detroit.

Come on now.

Who would't be proud to own one of these bad boys?

It's funny you say that though.

I was just watching an old "Price is Right" and in the "Showcase Show Down" there was a Gremlin offered up.

I told my wife that I would bid 2.5 billion dollars, just so I didn't have to pay the tax on that POS.


I have often said, that was truly the "Dark Ages" for cars

 

[ItBmine]

My only complaint is I wish they'd spray a little more paint on them and make sure they actually cover everything.

 

[TJP440]

Come on now.

Who would't be proud to own one of these bad boys?


View attachment 153736


It's funny you say that though.

I was just watching an old "Price is Right" and in the "Showcase Show Down" there was a Gremlin offered up.

I told my wife that I would bid 2.5 billion dollars, just so I didn't have to pay the tax on that POS.


I have often said, that was truly the "Dark Ages" for cars

I've always thought they'd make a nice sleeper with a 401 AMC swap or late mode hemi, LS swap or???
But I've always stayed off the beaten path when it comes to my hobby vehicles. Even mustang II cobra's, Mavericks etc. Dodge darts were a favored choice back in my younger days

 

[Chanceywd]

Come on now.

Who would't be proud to own one of these bad boys?


View attachment 153736


It's funny you say that though.

I was just watching an old "Price is Right" and in the "Showcase Show Down" there was a Gremlin offered up.

I told my wife that I would bid 2.5 billion dollars, just so I didn't have to pay the tax on that POS.


I have often said, that was truly the "Dark Ages" for cars

First new car I bought was a orange 1978 gremlin X. I was looking for something good on gas and didn't want a pinto or something like that. Married with 2 kids so needed room for 4.
It had some kind of Volkswagen/Audi 4 cylinder with a 4 speed manual. What A pc of crap.
I paid the dealer for rust proofing and by 81 the back hatch area panel rusted thru. The rust proof company, Rusty Jones had gone belly up so the dealer shrugged his shoulders. I installed the new one of those.
Starter failed about the second year and this was the era of mixed metric and sae. I needed an 18mm to get it out and Napa had to get one in along with the starter taking a couple days.
Valve stem seals I replaced twice using the air in the sparkplug hole trick because when you started you were in a blue cloud.
Then the transmission mount bolt broke off and I was left laying under neath in the driveway with a carbide burr drilling out the broken piece in the aluminum housing so I could put int a new bolt.
Then the clutch which had a cable linkage cobbed in for this foreign engine/ domestic car combo broke. While I waited for that I made due by starting the car in neutral then when ready to go I would quickly turn it off and on while pushing into gear then shift without the clutch by watching the tach and feathering the gas.
My first car with disc brakes and they didn't last compared to what I had with drum brakes.

Have never experienced a more useless undependable thing unless you are counting ex wives, I had one of those in the same time period.

I might add I bought AMC because I had a 64 rambler American and that was pretty simple and dependable.
Sorry for the rant but you triggered me with that gremlin picture!
Bill

 

[D2Cat]

First new car I bought was a orange 1978 gremlin X. I was looking for something good on gas and didn't want a pinto or something like that. Married with 2 kids so needed room for 4.
It had some kind of Volkswagen/Audi 4 cylinder with a 4 speed manual. What A pc of crap.
I paid the dealer for rust proofing and by 81 the back hatch area panel rusted thru. The rust proof company, Rusty Jones had gone belly up so the dealer shrugged his shoulders. I installed the new one of those.
Starter failed about the second year and this was the era of mixed metric and sae. I needed an 18mm to get it out and Napa had to get one in along with the starter taking a couple days.
Valve stem seals I replaced twice using the air in the sparkplug hole trick because when you started you were in a blue cloud.
Then the transmission mount bolt broke off and I was left laying under neath in the driveway with a carbide burr drilling out the broken piece in the aluminum housing so I could put int a new bolt.
Then the clutch which had a cable linkage cobbed in for this foreign engine/ domestic car combo broke. While I waited for that I made due by starting the car in neutral then when ready to go I would quickly turn it off and on while pushing into gear then shift without the clutch by watching the tach and feathering the gas.
My first car with disc brakes and they didn't last compared to what I had with drum brakes.

Have never experienced a more useless undependable thing unless you are counting ex wives, I had one of those in the same time period.

I might add I bought AMC because I had a 64 rambler American and that was pretty simple and dependable.
Sorry for the rant but you triggered me with that gremlin picture!
Bill

The high-lighted part.....maybe one precipitated the other?

 

[Chanceywd]

The high-lighted part.....maybe one precipitated the other?

Married her and bought the car both in 78!

My year of bad decisions!

Bill

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I've always thought they'd make a nice sleeper with a 401 AMC swap or late mode hemi, LS swap or???

I have seen similar things done.

I always "cringe" at how much money/time is/was wasted in doing that though.

I don't care if you put a Rolls Royce Spey Turbofan in it........It's still a Gremelin/Pinto/Pacer/Matador/Escort (insert almost any 70's car here)

 

[TJP440]

I have seen similar things done.

I always "cringe" at how much money/time is/was wasted in doing that though.

I don't care if you put a Rolls Royce Spey Turbofan in it........It's still a Gremelin/Pinto/Pacer/Matador/Escort (insert almost any 70's car here)

Yes but smoking an unsuspecting muscle car at a stoplight is worth it