Help L225 right rear axle removal questions

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Ok I got my case all loose and broke free from the tractor but it is rusted to the pin the arms mount to, so does anyone have any suggestions on how to break it free?

 

[Motion]

Plenty of good quality penetrant, tap the pins and case lightly. Polish and ensure the pins don't have any burs that would impede once you get it moving. Do the pins have any movement? Make sure to pull the case squarely don't cock it. You may need heat! Good luck

 

[rbargeron]

I think I'd try to loosen it by turning the shaft with big pipe wrenches. Lift up on the wrench handle(s) to avoid breaking something. Maybe use pipe wrenches on both ends and a helper. Grind the burrs before pulling the case over any rough spots. Good luck ! Dick B

 

[thebicman]

I assume the rod just sits in the case? As in no spline or key to keep it from turning. If so I would clean as suggested, spray with penetrant and lightly tap the end with a hammer. With a block of wood on shaft to protect it from hammer.

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Well I got it this far and it’s extremely difficult to get this far I sprayed it and cleaned the shaft I am going to polish it a little more. Also hit the end of the shaft with a hammer and messed it up so going to be interesting when I get to the end of the rod..... you live and you learn I guess

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Polished the rod as best as I could going to let it sit till tomorrow going to get a clear head and not be frustrated when I come back to work on it

 

[Russell King]

As stupid as it sounds you may want to push it back onto the pin. Before you move it toward the tractor center line, spray the pin with PB Blaster or something similar (not WD-40) on the inner side. And then wipe down and polish the shaft outside again and then spray it with penetrating fluid again. Moving the shaft back and forth in the housing will help break the rust bond and get the penetrating fluid into the joint.

If you can get a new shaft from the dealer you might consider cutting it in two, but then you’re fighting to get it out of both sides of the tractor.

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

I

As stupid as it sounds you may want to push it back onto the pin. Before you move it toward the tractor center line, spray the pin with PB Blaster or something similar (not WD-40) on the inner side. And then wipe down and polish the shaft outside again and then spray it with penetrating fluid again. Moving the shaft back and forth in the housing will help break the rust bond and get the penetrating fluid into the joint.

If you can get a new shaft from the dealer you might consider cutting it in two, but then you’re fighting to get it out of both sides of the tractor.

I thought about cutting the pin but all I have found is a used pin, also I have tried to get it to go back towards the tractor and I can’t get it to go back either so I’m kinda between a rock and a hard place I may use a small propane torch to heat it a little and see if it will slide for me

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Also I wonder if I could find a newer style pin that wasn’t a solid shaft but would bolt on the each side vs one solid rod

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

With help from a friend and 2 4’ tire irons we wiggled it off

 

[thebicman]

Congratulations!!!! Amazing feeling when you win over a piece of machinery.

 

[Russell King]

Good news in getting it removed.

If it was me I would start spraying the other side and see if the pin can be moved there since you have access to it now.

Use anti seize on it during reassembly? I have no idea what really keeps it from moving side to side or if it should be fixed.

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Good news in getting it removed.

If it was me I would start spraying the other side and see if the pin can be moved there since you have access to it now.

Use anti seize on it during reassembly? I have no idea what really keeps it from moving side to side or if it should be fixed.

There are two cotter pins under the pro that keep it from sliding all the way out but it is rusted in on the other side of the tractor and I think it would be more trouble then it’s worth to try to remove the whole pin

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Now I’m in need of a press to get this bearing off..... I think I found someone who can help get it off a friend of a friend (only mounted to tire to get axle nut off)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nothing, including that bearing is ever pressed on a Kubota, every part is a tolerance fit.
NO press is required to remove or install parts!

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Nothing, including that bearing is ever pressed on a Kubota, every part is a tolerance fit.
NO press is required to remove or install parts!

According to the wsm the bearing is pressed on and says to press it off. Replace seal and press the bearing back on. And all the other parts is says to slide off.

 

[Here_Comes_Howell]

Got my bearing off and well now I know why my axle seal was leaking....