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brmax

New member

Equipment
generation
Dec 3, 2014
8
0
0
Jefferson City, Missouri
Good morning!

I have been looking around a bit here on the forum since I purchased a generator having a Kubota engine.

In my project here I have been doing some pre checks, checks trying to work forward through them and maintaining something resembling progress.

A check I need some help with at the moment is machine shop testing the head with water pressure, how much psi.

The Engine
V2203-3-G2920 (stamped)
V2203-BG-E ( sticker on valve cover)

"Can someone let me know what kind of leakage around each pre chamber"
I have received a call from the shop and starting a discussion on these findings from 40 psi. What can I expect

thanks and good day
 

brmax

New member

Equipment
generation
Dec 3, 2014
8
0
0
Jefferson City, Missouri
I stoped by the shop this afternoon.
The shop owner the senior there, re arranged the rubber plugs/tooling and found no leakage around the pre cup chambers and said its solid underneath them anyway so the tooling press was re arranged by the senior to show the others. great!

The cups were then removed and dusted for cracks and results were ok. Then other areas dusted for cracks in head and surface, good check there.

Surface measured under .002 on check, and the vacuum check in the beginning was good also. So its looking better even with the tough call in the morning before much coffee.

This was a motor that's been sitting since 07, empty of coolant in a tour bus. As some gut purchases are your best judgement is all you get.

I had previously conducted a compression check, and having 4 cylinder 40 lower than the others so then did a leak down and results on my gauge were 98.8-99 of 100psi on each cylinder. hmmm

I buttoned it up started it for the third time, 1st was at purchase decision. Second was after I adjusted valves and changed oil, no coolant as no radiator and everything on shop floor.

In this third start I had the garden hose connected in a very talented way (ducktape). Started after cracking some lines for a moment, then I noticed water pump leaked. Not a big surprise but anyhow a trigger for me as you will see later.
The engine ran good and it is pre set for 1800 as a genie, the temp came up after awhile as I noticed on the new gauge around 190 and 200 and then obvious the thermo opened and temp went down, seemed to runout fine my voltage and frequency reading were on the mark also so I shut it down after 30 or so minutes.

I decided in the following days to remove the water pump, and had noticed a prior replacement of the thermostat base as it had no paint and the usual signs. When I removed the pump it turned pretty hard and easily seen the engine area had or showed sealer paste in the passages and low areas that were visible, hmm bummer and ???

This is why I removed the head to simply further check coolant related, and any possible related low cylinder pressure, Issues

I have the head at the house for the time being in the state mentioned above. Gonna do normal amounts of coffee tomorrow and consider further

Good day there and if its cold it should have warmed up from the hot air
Thanks for the site
 

brmax

New member

Equipment
generation
Dec 3, 2014
8
0
0
Jefferson City, Missouri
Thank you, I appreciate it and will be doing some calling.
I have noticed some blocks where the pipe is mounted in the block surface have a chamfer as mine. Some regular and I think its 2mm thick O-rings wont do the intended justice rather a 2.5mm Im guesing and an oem product only.
Will post the find
 

brmax

New member

Equipment
generation
Dec 3, 2014
8
0
0
Jefferson City, Missouri
I did pick the o-ring up from the dealer as it had to be special, I think for one as mentioned its in a chamfer both the block and head while it surrounds the oil pipe, 2 its in a higher heat area than standard, and when looking at the old blue one it seems to fill the gasket hole also when compressed, my gasket was .045.
I noticed early that it seem to be different and of a silicone, Now I know its different they made it "orange" now I have some orange :D

Looking thru post and other engine situations this became more of a concern, some gasket kits come with the wrong 0-ring, and would leak oil.

The pic has an o-ring that came in a gasket set and not a good idea to use, in the center is the new orange and im sure hi temp and following right is the old compressed a bit blue.
 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID
All I know is I gave you the proper 0-ring part # for a Kubota V2203 in a tractor, maybe things are different in the industrial use engines.
 

Daren Todd

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May 18, 2014
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Vilonia, Arkansas
I did pick the o-ring up from the dealer as it had to be special, I think for one as mentioned its in a chamfer both the block and head while it surrounds the oil pipe, 2 its in a higher heat area than standard, and when looking at the old blue one it seems to fill the gasket hole also when compressed, my gasket was .045.
I noticed early that it seem to be different and of a silicone, Now I know its different they made it "orange" now I have some orange :D

Looking thru post and other engine situations this became more of a concern, some gasket kits come with the wrong 0-ring, and would leak oil.

The pic has an o-ring that came in a gasket set and not a good idea to use, in the center is the new orange and im sure hi temp and following right is the old compressed a bit blue.
If the new o'ring is orange, then it is a viton o'ring. They hold up to higher temperatures then the standard ones (black) not sure about the blue one. Leaning towards refrigeration o'rings. But could be wrong. Haven't come across the blue ones before.