Gotta pull the Head

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Turns out I can buy a set of “rebuilt” oem injectors with new seals for the same cost as just the seals from messicks.

Doesn't surprise me a whole lot.

 

[Selkirk_D]

Doesn't surprise me a whole lot.

Ya but what does “rebuilt” really mean?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ya but what does “rebuilt” really mean?

I honestly don't know how they could be rebuilt, as pencil injectors were always know to not be rebuildable because they are crimped on assembly.

 

[Selkirk_D]

I honestly don't know how they could be rebuilt, as pencil injectors were always know to not be rebuildable because they are crimped on assembly.

Depends on what “rebuilt” means. Hopefully at least cleaned, tested, and new seals.

 

[Selkirk_D]

So I talked to the seller about the refurbished injectors . They were cleaned tested, and new seals installed, so I ordered a set. I also pulled my injectors and ordered new seals from an injection shop. I may still get them tested/cleaned if I can find a shop nearby. Just for backups. I pulled all the valves, and all exhaust seats were pitted from carbon, but nowhere near as bad as #1. So 3 more exhaust valves on order plus 8mm mandrels for my seat grinder. Glued some 320 wet-or-dry to my granite surface plate and ran the head over it. Cleaned up nice. Seems like the further I go, the deeper down the rabbit hole I get!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So I talked to the seller about the refurbished injectors . They were cleaned tested, and new seals installed, so I ordered a set. I also pulled my injectors and ordered new seals from an injection shop. I may still get them tested/cleaned if I can find a shop nearby. Just for backups. I pulled all the valves, and all exhaust seats were pitted from carbon, but nowhere near as bad as #1. So 3 more exhaust valves on order plus 8mm mandrels for my seat grinder. Glued some 320 wet-or-dry to my granite surface plate and ran the head over it. Cleaned up nice. Seems like the further I go, the deeper down the rabbit hole I get!

You will be porting and polishing it soon enough!

 

[Selkirk_D]

lol , there are a lot of “race spec” features in these engines:
Forged crank with flame hardened journals
Forged rods
Radiused fillets
Cross drilled journals
Skirted block
Shaft-mounted rockers
Lash caps

they are definitely built tough!

 

[Selkirk_D]

So replacement rod bolts are completely different designs. The new ones on left fit the old rods, but are they going to work out ok?

New replacement rod looks the same but is way heavier (19 grams) on big end and way lighter (10 grams) on small end. I can fix the big end and I think she’ll be ok with the small end since it won’t be turning 7 grand.

 

[Selkirk_D]

Also, after waiting 3 weeks, the Chi-Com Yannal brand rod bearings don’t fit (OD is way too small and too narrow) Box says v-1702. Are they maybe for an IDI engine? Re-Ordered from a US vendor and put in for a return. We’ll see if these work. 1 step forward, 2 steps back!

 

[Selkirk_D]

So I gave the rod journals another pass with my “connecting rod journal polisher”. Hit number one with 250 “swings” of 320 grit, followed with 250 swings of 400. Then I hit the other 3 with 200 swings of 400. Looks pretty decent, my #1 final bearing clearance was .0035”, .0001” over spec for new and about half of the wear limit. The other journals are at .002”, right in the middle of spec. Thankful for those flame hardened journals!

I decided to get a used original rod with new bolts for #1 to get a better weight match. The rod/piston assemblies are ready to go. The complete piston/ rod assemblies weigh in at 1487,1488,1488,1489 grams now. Pretty close.

I bought Riken brand rings from Taiwan and I’m impressed with the quality, cost a bit more ($140 a set vs $35) but I’m thinking they were best value. Close copy’s of originals and moly faced top ring, consistent sizing. All gaps within .001 of each other. She’s going back together soon.

#1 rod journal :

 

[Selkirk_D]

I put bottom end together last night. Had to glue the corners of the pan gasket to the pan with 3-M 77 so it would stay in place while I hoisted that monster into place. If I ever have to pull the pan again I’ll be cursing the guy who did that! Motor turns relatively easy , so all good. More this weekend.

Speaking of the oil pan, is there a torque spec for the pan bolts? Can’t find any in shop manual

 

[Selkirk_D]

i would recommend removing the injectors from the head before doing any more work on it. You should have removed them before cleaning but it's a but late for that. Injector nozzle should not be cleaned with a wire brush, a hard or abrasive tool.

The journal does not look too bad but will need cleaning and I would recommend turning the crank so the oil hole faces down and flush it out with brake clean. by micing the journal you should have a pretty good idea of the clearance you will end up with.

So despite ordering “reconditioned “ injectors for $34 each, I did find a shop close by that tested the old ones for $36. They all came back good, so I’ll install new seals and put them back in. I’ll keep the refurbs as backups.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I put bottom end together last night. Had to glue the corners of the pan gasket to the pan with 3-M 77 so it would stay in place while I hoisted that monster into place. If I ever have to pull the pan again I’ll be cursing the guy who did that! Motor turns relatively easy , so all good. More this weekend.

Speaking of the oil pan, is there a torque spec for the pan bolts? Can’t find any in shop manual

Look at the general bolt torque spec chart.

 

[Selkirk_D]

So got engine back together last night and fired her up Runs great and no leaks, and no smoke! Thanks all, and especially Wolfman, I couldn’t have done it without everyone’s help. I’m new to these machines and there’s lots of nuances to working with them.

I ran a quick compression test before I put the Intake manifold on and I got:

#1: 360
#2: 370
#3: 380
#4: 380

Huge improvement. This is stone cold with no break-in of the rings whatsoever. Motor sounds good, most of the noises seem to be from the injectors ticking.

Head got new exhaust valves, touched up exhaust seats with my Black and Decker seat grinder, lapped the intakes, and installed new valve seals. Guides were all good. I also ran some 320 glued to my granite surface plate over the deck and head. I used an OEM head gasket, the rest of gaskets are from the cheapest kit I could find.

One tip I can pass on is that , before putting head back on, pull each lifter out. ( one at a time) flush it out with brake-cleaner spray, oil the body and lifter bottom, and reinstall. I flushed out bits of old head gasket material in every one of them when I did this.

Now to get the front axle and driveshaft back on, then it’s back to work! Hafta poke 20 or so holes in the ground for my new pole barn next week!

 

[RCW]

Been following your thread.

Haven't had anything constructive to add but certainly have enjoyed following your journey.

Well done!

 

[Selkirk_D]

Been following your thread.

Haven't had anything constructive to add but certainly have enjoyed following your journey.

Well done!

Thanks RCW! It was definitely a huge learning experience for me. I’m glad it’s done! Got the front axle and driveshaft back on today. I then drove her around the block a couple times to help break things in before tomorrows torture test

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glad to hear you got it all done and back up and running!

 

[Selkirk_D]

Thanks again for all your help Wolfman!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks again for all your help Wolfman!

Anytime!