First tractor owner

[WFM]

This is my first real tractor, I've never run anything with the 3 point hitch , sad isn't it ? But anyway, my question is when using my 60" bush hog(rotary cutter) , the tractor is hst, so I go in "m" or medium on the shift lever , but because the pto is running should I have the trans in "L" gear for more power ? Or does it matter. My field is steep in some areas .

 

[KUBOTA4900]

Welcome to the ott

as a newbee myself i would start off by reading my opperaters manual it will recomend different applications for certain inplements that you are opperating that being said

i personaly run my m4900sdc with a 5ft brush hog in low gear and in 2nd gear like yours i have two setting i have turtle and rabbit and 1 thru 4 and i keep my rpm's between 17-20-k

tony

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Match your ground speed based on the ground conditions. If its hilly yes slow down a bit, if its flat and level you can pick up the pace a notch or so and get things done. I have a B6100 and a 4 foot hog and with a 6 speed transmission I'm in 4 Hi and it clips along at a pretty decent pace. It's not stupid fast but I'm not crawling either. Still mows the thick stuff just fine. Sometimes I slow down if its real thick heavy stuff.

Just play with it and get a feel for what works best giving the conditions.

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much what Eric said, it is hard to say with tractor to always operate one way or the other and the degree of your slopes will determine if your tractor pulls well enough in M or you need to go to low. I usually mow flat ground and mild inclines in M and go to L for steep stuff, but that is what works best for me.

Just keep in mind as a new HST owner it is hard to remember that to get more power, you need to let off the HST pedal rather than push down.

Others may be able to offer better guidelines; maybe someone who owns the same tractor.

 

[Stubbyie]

Set your engine RPMs to give you 540-rpm to the brushhog. 540 out the PTO shaft is what your brushhog is rated at and what the tractor is designed to operate the most efficiently at. You can use less PTO rpm but cutting will be less efficient overall.

If you're just trimming yard growth, use 'M' setting on gear selector. Reduce to 'L' as conditions warrant. You'll have to get used to your machine and how you speed up and slow down using HST as you go forward. Hit a tall or rough spot and back off the HST to slow down and let the cutter 'catch up'. Try not to bog machine down--diesel won' t lug, it'll just die.

Creep along in tallest or among rocks stumps rough country keeping your PTO RPMs up while throttling forward speed with HST. HST give you infinite and precise control. Best thing around.

If the cutter vibrates excessively at 540 PTO check for blade bent or missing a chunk. Make sure cutter gearbox topped off per spec. If you do NOT have a stumpjumper on cutter (having blades mounted to bar not disk) exercise caution around heavy brush: that bar can get wrapped around a stump and turn your entire machine sideways in a heartbeat where a disk will glide over.

 

[Benhameen]

All the above responses are on point.

One thing I might add is that tractor work is SLOW compared to our fast paced world these days. Which is one reason why it's my hobby.

 

[alyvols]

Set your engine RPMs to give you 540-rpm to the brushhog. 540 out the PTO shaft is what your brushhog is rated at and what the tractor is designed to operate the most efficiently at.

Sorry for the dumb question, but how do you know when the PTO shaft is at 540 rpm?

The only thing I see that tracks rpm is the engine speed dial. So this has to be kept under 1000 rpms?

(sorry for being complete newbie!)

 

[freewheel3]

Sorry for the dumb question, but how do you know when the PTO shaft is at 540 rpm?

The only thing I see that tracks rpm is the engine speed dial. So this has to be kept under 1000 rpms?

(sorry for being complete newbie!)

The tachometer on the dashboard will display the engine RPM. It will also indicate the appropriate engine RPM to obtain the required 540 RPM on the PTO shaft. I'm not sure about your particular model but its probably designed to run the engine at about 2400 to 2700 RPM to get 540 on the PTO. There will be a mark on the tach, have a look, you'll see it.

 

[WFM]

I was working on my garden today, its a huge thing , if you actually took a tape measure to it , I'd say it would be 8'wide x 16' or so long. I was tilling with my Bolens 1669 tractor, at the end of the garden I'd bump a rock, going back bump...bump..so I got the shovel did some digging,,,,.well it looked kinda big...so out comes the L3800....ya there was a rock there all right. Here's a couple pics....

 

[BotaDriver]

When it comes to mowing with the tractor, the first is obviously safety. Never exceed the safety envelope for your machine on your property. More than likely, the second factor for general 'maintenance' mowing is comfort. Find a speed that you're comfortable with on the machine...without suspension, rough terrain can really do a number on the operator.

As far as RPM to run at, do not exceed the RPM marked on your gauge cluster for 540 PTO RPM. Usually there is an indicator somewhere between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM engine speed to indicate 540 PTO RPM. Consider this your MAX rpm to run (Do not exceed) when using the PTO. This is most likely NOT the 'rated RPM' of the tractor. IE: My L3800 has a 'rated' rpm of 2,700. The PTO operates at 540 RPM when the tractor is at an engine RPM of ~2,450, which is indicated by a yellow mark on the tachometer.

Now, you do not have to run at the 540 RPM if the job doesn't require it. I often run at 1,800 RPM, which is about 400 RPM PTO and it's more than adequate for maintenance mowing. If you find that your implement is not performing as expected, you probably could use more RPM. If your machine is having a difficult time with the load being produced, you certainly need more RPM.

There really isn't the perfect speed. It's up to the operator to determine based on the numerous factors involved.

 

[freewheel3]

When it comes to mowing with the tractor, the first is obviously safety. Never exceed the safety envelope for your machine on your property. More than likely, the second factor for general 'maintenance' mowing is comfort. Find a speed that you're comfortable with on the machine...without suspension, rough terrain can really do a number on the operator.

As far as RPM to run at, do not exceed the RPM marked on your gauge cluster for 540 PTO RPM. Usually there is an indicator somewhere between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM engine speed to indicate 540 PTO RPM. Consider this your MAX rpm to run (Do not exceed) when using the PTO. This is most likely NOT the 'rated RPM' of the tractor. IE: My L3800 has a 'rated' rpm of 2,700. The PTO operates at 540 RPM when the tractor is at an engine RPM of ~2,450, which is indicated by a yellow mark on the tachometer.

Now, you do not have to run at the 540 RPM if the job doesn't require it. I often run at 1,800 RPM, which is about 400 RPM PTO and it's more than adequate for maintenance mowing. If you find that your implement is not performing as expected, you probably could use more RPM. If your machine is having a difficult time with the load being produced, you certainly need more RPM.

There really isn't the perfect speed. It's up to the operator to determine based on the numerous factors involved.

Well said.

 

[tempforce]

first keep the attachment at recommended rpm. and adjust your speed for conditions and the load you place on the attachment. if the cutting results are less than desired, slow down…

those pebbles are a sure thing to dull tiller blades...

 

[Stubbyie]

Just like any lawnmower your brush hog will do better with sharp blades. Plan on sharpening---the 'when' depends on your useage and 'what' you're shredding. 4.5-in hand grinder does great.

Look at a set of new blades and see how the factor puts on an edge and try to mimic that when you do it.

When changing blades you'll find dozens/hundreds to choose from so be certain yours fit properly and when installed be certain oriented correctly---direction of rotation and offset/bend are correct.

Keep the gearbox topped off per spec. You can break and bend blades. If you do you'll know it. Turn the PTO off immediately.

Also keep spare shear pins. Do NOT use those watermelon-shaped tapered split pins. If you use bolts stay only with the 'no grade' Grade-2 bolts and nylock nuts.

Grease religiously all U-joints every use.