FEL bracket bolt problem

[chartersj]

I am in the process of putting my l245dt project back together and the bolts that holds the brace for the FEL to the bottom of the chassis keep coming loose. I figured there was a reason there was no bolts in it when I took the tractor apart. And someone previously welded the back of the loader arms to the front of the cab to try to stiffen it up. It seems like a lot of strain for two bolts. I am taking it to a machine shop to re tap the holes. The original bolts are 12mm unf and the guy at the shop said he would drill for 9/16" unc. Just wasn't sure if anyone else has run into this and if it would be safe to go up to that size or if more bracing would be nessecary to keep everything rigid.

 

[shootem604]

My loader on my L245dt was built for Kubota by Arps, and it has a subframe that runs from back to front and ties into several more hardpoints on the chassis, with the loader connected to the subframe, not directly to the chassis. I'd agree that there seems like too much for just two bolts at one hardpoint for your loader, but I don't have that model on mine.

Tractor looks great with the new paint! I have to ask though, it looks like you have new decals - where did you get them? I wasn't able to find the L245dt decals

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yea you're missing at least 4 mounting points and about 12 bolts!

2 mounting points should be the sides of the bellhousing , those would take 8 bolts on the tractor side, 2 other points should be axle bars that go from the cross brace and back to at least the center of the axle line and bolted to the axle cases!

If the 2 bolts under the tractor are not stripped adding the other mounts and bolts will take the load off them and you, won't need to up size them.
Just put loctite on them to keep them from backing out.

 

[shootem604]

I can take some pics of my subframe (same tractor different loader though) and email them to you if you need to fab something up. (I'd post them here but for some reason my pics are always too big and it is a PITA to resize them or at least I'm to dumb to figure out the easy way.)

 

[chartersj]

My loader on my L245dt was built for Kubota by Arps, and it has a subframe that runs from back to front and ties into several more hardpoints on the chassis, with the loader connected to the subframe, not directly to the chassis. I'd agree that there seems like too much for just two bolts at one hardpoint for your loader, but I don't have that model on mine.

Tractor looks great with the new paint! I have to ask though, it looks like you have new decals - where did you get them? I wasn't able to find the L245dt decals

Yea you're missing at least 4 mounting points and about 12 bolts!

2 mounting points should be the sides of the bellhousing , those would take 8 bolts on the tractor side, 2 other points should be axle bars that go from the cross brace and back to at least the center of the axle line and bolted to the axle cases!

If the 2 bolts under the tractor are not stripped adding the other mounts and bolts will take the load off them and you, won't need to up size them.
Just put loctite on them to keep them from backing out.

Some pictures would be great of how your bracing is. I cannot find a clear picture on google. My loader is built by Allied. The threads on one bolt are fine but the other one is about half stripped out...I think the first one rattled out and the second one stripped out after it rattled most of the way out from the strain. The brace that is on it now I believe was only to hold the front of the cab and not designed for the loader.

As for the decals I had them made at a local shop, I couldn't find them online anywheres

 

[Russell King]

Fine thread bolts are better in that application. More area for shear and tension for same preload.

Kubota loves fine and extra fine thread pitch. Don’t recall seeing coarse pitch thread on my L185.


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[Fordtech86]

Fine thread bolts are better in that application. More area for shear and tension for same preload.

Kubota loves fine and extra fine thread pitch. Don’t recall seeing coarse pitch thread on my L185.


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Irrelivent to this thread but it must be a Japanese thing. I work with fords and Mazda’s everyday and Mazda loves the fine and extra fine threads.

 

[chartersj]

Fine thread bolts are better in that application. More area for shear and tension for same preload.

Kubota loves fine and extra fine thread pitch. Don’t recall seeing coarse pitch thread on my L185.


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Your right it seems most is fine. Not debating you, and I'm not very experienced with the proper threads for different applications, but at the machine shop the guy told me that course thread had better holding strength in cast then fine.
So we will see when I drop the tractor off to him. But I think he will agree that more bracing is solution.

 

[chartersj]

Bracing to the rear axle assembly should be easy enough. Are these the bolt locations for the front? They are not threaded but could be tapped I'm sure. And in the second picture what is that bent cover in the middle of the two holes?

 

[D2Cat]

Yea you're missing at least 4 mounting points and about 12 bolts!

2 mounting points should be the sides of the bellhousing , those would take 8 bolts on the tractor side, 2 other points should be axle bars that go from the cross brace and back to at least the center of the axle line and bolted to the axle cases!

If the 2 bolts under the tractor are not stripped adding the other mounts and bolts will take the load off them and you, won't need to up size them.
Just put loctite on them to keep them from backing out.

Pay special attention to what North Idaho Wolfman states here. These are critical. Those axle bars (which I don't see in your photos) will keep the loader from being pushed towards the rear when using the loader. You HAVE TO HAVE THEM.

I do not see any side plates that go from the tractor sides down to the sub-frame (it's all painted like it's finished). With out those bolts your problem holes will soon be a problem again.

 

[D2Cat]

Here's some pictures from my L305 which is very similar to yours.

 

[D2Cat]

And a few more. The last picture/sketch shows the front drive shaft going through some spacers and the bracket on the side of the engine.

I have a bunch of various metric bolts, so I found bolts that threaded into the various tapped holes, then went to Fastenal to get all the metric threaded bolts which need to be the metric equivalent to our grade 8.

 

[chartersj]

And a few more. The last picture/sketch shows the front drive shaft going through some spacers and the bracket on the side of the engine.

I have a bunch of various metric bolts, so I found bolts that threaded into the various tapped holes, then went to Fastenal to get all the metric threaded bolts which need to be the metric equivalent to our grade 8.

Thank you very much that is a big help. Working measuring it up now. The holes i have are threaded they were just full of dirt. The bottom bolts are a 12mm fine thread. Do you know what size the threads are in the bell housing?

 

[D2Cat]

I don't remember any of the bolt sizes, and didn't write them down. As I mentioned I have quite a collection of metric bolts, so I just went through finding some that threaded in by hand. I measured the depth of the tapped hole and added the thickness of metal I was attaching and added for a lock-washer to determine the length of bolt needed.

I went to Fastenall and got them all. I was surprised at the cost, about 4 years ago it was like $115, but there are quite few bolts required.

I think the metric for grade 8 is like 10.9 (It's be stamped on the head of the bolt). Don't use softer bolts to save money!

 

[Russell King]

On my Kubota (and most others I believe) the holes are tapped and then plugged with a plastic cup plug if they are not used. After that they are painted so it is often hard to see the plug. Also the flange of the plug will get broken off and is even more difficult to figure that the hole is already tapped.


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[chartersj]

Ok yeah I did notice the plugs in some. I think the threads for the sides of the bell housing are 14mm× 1.25 pitch and I am having a hard time finding some at local shops

 

[D2Cat]

Might look up Fastenal in Canada. They do have some locations there.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Might look up Fastenal in Canada. They do have some locations there.

If I'm not mistaken, they sell online as well. If they don't, MSC or McMaster-Carr will have them.

 

[chartersj]

We do have fastenal here but it takes me about 3 hours to get there lol online might be my best option

 

[rbargeron]

I am in the process of putting my l245dt project back together and the bolts that holds the brace for the FEL to the bottom of the chassis keep coming loose.......

I installed a later-model LA450 loader on my L345. It should definitely have more than two bolts holding the center frame to the clutch housing. The LA450 has 6 bolts there, 2 in the bottom and 2 more on each side. There are more frame connections front and rear. The idea is to spread out high loader forces so the tractor doesn't break in half. Is the plan to reinstall the cab connection? Good luck, Dick B