bx2380 chains?

[BillSz]

I am a new owner of a 2380 and today was the first time I got to try it plowing snow. The was only 2"-3" on the driveway but I had minimal traction. I am using the plow attached to the FEL with unweighted turf tires. I do have a ballast box with about 300 lbs. of weight on the back. I have been using 4WD in low gear.

I should mention that before today we had rain/warmer weather (very unusual for Mn) and my gravel driveway has ice under the snow.

My questions are:
1. Should I take the weight off the back since I am not lifting anything with the bucket at present? Would that help with front end traction?
2. Are chains, both front and rear the answer?

For those of you with experience, what would you recommend to improve traction/snow moving capability?

Thanks in advance,
Bill

 

[RCW]

Bill - chains, absolutely! Leave ballast box on.

I suggest 2-link ladder chains. I put them on without spacers, but many guys have added spacers for more room. Kept tight and “cheating” to the outside, I haven’t had any issues in 5 years.
Thus far, I have them on rear only. I would not be able to function without them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RCW]

Bill - I should add I'm just pushing a blower.

I certainly couldn't push a plow without chains.

 

[SDT]

I am a new owner of a 2380 and today was the first time I got to try it plowing snow. The was only 2"-3" on the driveway but I had minimal traction. I am using the plow attached to the FEL with unweighted turf tires. I do have a ballast box with about 300 lbs. of weight on the back. I have been using 4WD in low gear.

I should mention that before today we had rain/warmer weather (very unusual for Mn) and my gravel driveway has ice under the snow.

My questions are:
1. Should I take the weight off the back since I am not lifting anything with the bucket at present? Would that help with front end traction?
2. Are chains, both front and rear the answer?

For those of you with experience, what would you recommend to improve traction/snow moving capability?

Thanks in advance,
Bill

Chains are BY FAR the best way to increase snow traction. Rears for traction, fronts for steering.

Keep the ballast box on.

Since you are plowing on gravel, you have the option of using aggressive chains that are damaging to concrete and asphalt. Go to tirechains.com and learn about the options. You may want to try the relatively new "euro" style with studs. Expensive but effective. Use both F & R.

Adjust the skid shoes to avoid digging up the gravel and plow with the FEL in float mode.

For significant snow, you may need more rear ballast to counterweigh the FEL mounted plow. I use a ballast box weighing about 400 Lbs. and loaded rear tires (dealer mistake) on my B3350 with FEL mounted plow.

SDT

 

[DustyRusty]

I have been plowing or snow blowing for over 10 years with loaded turf tires on a asphalt driveway about 1600', without chains. I have always used my weight box with about 650# of lead in it, and never have had a problem. I have chains, but have never installed them. I also have an incline, and can always climb it, albeit with some difficulty if using the blade. Snow blower never has a problem. This will be the first year that I will be plowing/blowing without my weight box, since my 3 point hitch isn't working. I am hoping that the backhoe will be enough weight to do the job. I am not going to fault anyone for using chains, because that is a personal decision, just giving my experience with my BX22.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Downsizing from a class 2 NH to the BX2380. Survived 25 winters using a rear mounted 60" Loftness snowblower and no chains. Loader and heavy duty bucket stayed attach. Like the combo for dealing with our Lake Effect dumps.

The BX is a significantly lighter tractor. Tires chosen are the R4 industrials. Considering chains for next winter. Driveway is ~900 foot surfaced with what we call "blue gravel". Average grade is only ~4%, but the steeper sections exceed 9%. Will be using just the std 48" bucket and SB1051 3 point mounted snowblower.

The BX has such small front wheels that I'm guessing not a significant cost to add couple more chains for improved traction and directional control Opinions? Waste of $$s

Minimal clearance between the plates protecting the operating lever hardware and rear tires. Willing to give up the additional traction of larger chains. Do they make chains similar to what you see on some passenger vehicles? The ones that look more like just coils vs. links. If so, any user feedback?

 

[RCW]

Some use front chains. Can be a challenge to put them on the small front tires on a BX. They can hit the front axle if not careful.

I’d put wheel spacers on the rears of your BX2380 and put regular ladder chains on. Spacers will give you some room.

Spacers are ill-advised and don’t do anything on the front wheels.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Some use front chains. Can be a challenge to put them on the small front tires on a BX. They can hit the front axle if not careful.

I’d put wheel spacers on the rears of your BX2380 and put regular ladder chains on. Spacers will give you some room.

Spacers are ill-advised and don’t do anything on the front wheels.

Probably just keep it simple. Like what you noted in an earlier post.
Thanks everyone.

 

[Blue2Orange]

Waiting for some skid plates before taking delivery of the BX. Yesterday did the Kubota "orientation, Q&A" with the dealer and shop person. Close look at the clearance. R4s. Tight a space between the protective plate inside the fender and tire.

Shop person suggested studs as an option. Thinking now studs. A few months to decide. Looked into couple brands. The IGrip SS series (SS=shoulder stud). Reasonable price direct from their store. Cost relative to chains is low.

Anyone using the IGrip SS?

 

[Old Reed]

This was my first winter with my MX5400 (R4 tires) and I bought front and rear chains from Midwest Traction. The front tires on the MX were an odd size and didn’t show up on their online size chart. The guy over the phone was a huge help and super knowledgeable. Got me the right chains for the front. I’m using a 84” snow pusher and never had an issue with traction. I don’t have experience with studs in tractor tires only in skid steer tracks. Seems like it would be very time consuming installing and removing the studs. Please let us know what you go with and how it works out even if it’s next winter.

Midwest Traction Specialty Tires, Chains & Powersports | Free Shipping

www.midwesttraction.com

 

[Blue2Orange]

If deciding on studs will leave them in. Only concrete surface will be the garage floor. The other make considered are GripStuds. No shoulder. Similar design and install. Just use their included tool and your electric drill. GripStuds note 3-4 per outer rib on the rear and 2 on the front. Spreads the stress load on the studs. Initial install will take a bit of time. But one time process.

Local dealer has a variety of chain options. Didn't make the time yet to see the options and cost. So far, their prices have been competitive with any online shop. Local family business established in '61.