Guys I know how smart you and you and you are and I feel awful asking if exception can be made for other brand machines. I understand this is a Kubota only forum, but I am having trouble and don't mind asking for help from folks that fool with all aspects of parts and repairs. I do after all contribute to the site when I can. If I post in off topic section I don't know if it will get read, at the bottom of page 9,349.5. I am trying to find the specs, read length and width on a MTD 954-04329A belt which is what SEEMS to be the belt for my Craftsman Z6600 model 247.204150. I have already bought 1 wrong size belt, even though I supplied the correct "model" #, and I would like to order with confidence. I just don't think it is so hard to figure this out but I am a geriatric which may or may not be the problem. If I can not post in the SR&M section, can I post some where/any where else? Admins, please be kind.
Belt for 54" deck
- Thread starter MilkyWay
- Start date
It is far easier than most people think.
V belts have a common or generic number and then a manufacturer's production number.
A Dayco, Carlisile or Gates AP 103 belt will all be identical.
Each will have their own number but those numbers only serve to confuse people and make them order a belt from the equipment manufacturer.
Step 1 belt length.
This Youtube video shows you how easy it is to measure the outside circumference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kYLYrw0gUE&t=22s
Step 2: Belt width
Most mower belts are either an A or B width
https://cloudfront.zoro.com/img/zoro_tips/V-Belt_Selection_eZtip.pdf
Step 3: Now you know the length and width of your belt. The final step is to make certain you order and get a belt with the letter "P" in the number. AP103 or BP160
The "P" is the designator for Kevlar and is the only type of reinforcing cord that will stand up to lawn maintenence use.
Go to ebay.com and search for the belt you need.
AP103 V belt will yield many choices.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-V-Be...258027&hash=item3d6bccad7c:g:zssAAOxy69JTD4X7
I have had bad luck with D & D belts. I order a BP and they send me a B. That is why their prices look so much better than Gates for example.
Ask questions if anything is not clear.
Dave
V belts have a common or generic number and then a manufacturer's production number.
A Dayco, Carlisile or Gates AP 103 belt will all be identical.
Each will have their own number but those numbers only serve to confuse people and make them order a belt from the equipment manufacturer.
Step 1 belt length.
This Youtube video shows you how easy it is to measure the outside circumference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kYLYrw0gUE&t=22s
Step 2: Belt width
Most mower belts are either an A or B width
https://cloudfront.zoro.com/img/zoro_tips/V-Belt_Selection_eZtip.pdf
Step 3: Now you know the length and width of your belt. The final step is to make certain you order and get a belt with the letter "P" in the number. AP103 or BP160
The "P" is the designator for Kevlar and is the only type of reinforcing cord that will stand up to lawn maintenence use.
Go to ebay.com and search for the belt you need.
AP103 V belt will yield many choices.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-V-Be...258027&hash=item3d6bccad7c:g:zssAAOxy69JTD4X7
I have had bad luck with D & D belts. I order a BP and they send me a B. That is why their prices look so much better than Gates for example.
Ask questions if anything is not clear.
Dave
WOW! Thanks Dave. I have not had time to digest all that you included. I should have utubed how to (correctly) measure length before I tried to get a belt but I thought how tough can this be. The width is straight forward. Based on my findings I ordered a belt that "was the right length" - NOT! I'll keep you posted. Question, how much stretch could I expect from the old belt? Nowhere is it what I would call shredded, but the wrap is broken and frayed in several places. The belt is over 2 years old so it has no surviving identification/designation codes if it ever had any. I still can't believe I have to order from Sears to get a belt.
On another topic; I was poking around underneath my T1560 a few days ago because one of my belts jumped off just sitting there idling. While looking under there I saw something really startling. 3 of 4 engine mount bolts (?) are apparently broken off and the engine has twisted slightly out of position.
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Most applications have tolerance for small differences in belt length.
Not every length is made or not every length is available when you need it.
If you have a beat up old belt on a mower deck, I would order 1" shorter than you measure.
If you order from Amazon, you could order two belts with slightly different lengths and return the one which seems too long.
Check the idler puller. The pulley which moves against a spring.
Often the pivot point of the arm gets sloppy and the idler pulley is out of line with the deck blade pulleys and this causes the belt to slip off and get damaged.
Dave
Not every length is made or not every length is available when you need it.
If you have a beat up old belt on a mower deck, I would order 1" shorter than you measure.
If you order from Amazon, you could order two belts with slightly different lengths and return the one which seems too long.
Check the idler puller. The pulley which moves against a spring.
Often the pivot point of the arm gets sloppy and the idler pulley is out of line with the deck blade pulleys and this causes the belt to slip off and get damaged.
Dave
You know what, you hit the hail on the ned, as I had decided the idler might be the problem. Problem is, and this is a preliminary finding, but I think the opposite has occurred in my case. I think I detected that the idler pivot was sticky and I was trying to see if there was a hidden and inaccessible zerk and that is when I spyed the broken engine mount bolts.
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Some MTD products like commercial versions of Cub Cadet have idler pivots designed to be greased. The less expensive products often use a shoulder bolt and a hole in the arm. It is not designed for long trouble free life.
Dave