Ball on forks?

Bearcatrp

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How far back do you folks who put a ball on one of your folks? Also, drilling the hole require a special bit? Thanks.
 
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Matt Ellerbee

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I tossed this together from scrap at work. The pin could be replaced with a ball easily. We have mainly pintle hitches so the pin made sense. I have moved ball hitches with it also.
IMG_4035.jpeg

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Chain hooks to fork frame so it doesn’t slide off and pin on bottom keeps it from sliding up the fork blade.
 
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Edke6bnl

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I drilled both forks for a ball, if real heavy load I have a piece that goes on both forks and there is a pin that drops in the holes at the ends of the forks. It divides the load.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I've never liked the 'hole in fork', maybe cause I was told it means that fork cannot be certified for commercial use and if the tip breaks off, home insurance may be null and void.

I did what Matt did, except I used a short 2" receiver. Allows me to use any sleeve, 2", 2 5/16", hook, eye, etc.
 
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Matt Ellerbee

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I did what Matt did, except I used a short 2" receiver. Allows me to use any sleeve, 2", 2 5/16", hook, eye, etc.
Good idea, but this is what I had on hand. Like I said 90% of our trailers are pintle. I think we have 2 trailers at my location that are ball couplers.
 
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woodman55

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My forks are about 4 inches wide, so about 2 or 3 inches back. Have been drilled for years. They are still good.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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All of my forks have a factory hole in them.
But I don't put a ball on them.
I normally use the three point and a hit to move trailers around.
The B works great for that task.
 

GeoHorn

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I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N193WWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



But then drilled a 3/4” hole about ten inches from the tip of my left fork...to accept a ball…OR to accept the threaded pin of the adaptor. (It takes a cobalt bit to drill that fork…it’s really hard steel.… the idea it would void commercial use or home insurance sounds like the typical “lawyer fear-mongering” that goes around.)
 

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Bearcatrp

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BX1880
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Have a hitch hole on my pallet forks built in. Considered the ball on the forks for better extension out but could find a long hitch to fit in it. Just remove the forks. This link will show what I am talking about.

 

mcmxi

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How far back do you folks who put a ball on one of your folks? Also, drilling the hole require a special bit? Thanks.
I cut a hole about three inches from the end of one of the forks. I used a hole saw that has seen better days.

My main reason for adding the ball was that I didn't want a chain to slip off the end of the fork since there was a $$$ outboard motor hanging from the chain. I've seen folks use clamps on the forks but I don't like that idea.

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hedgerow

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Myself I don't want to screw around taking a ball off my forks when I need to move a pallet or tote with the forks. . I have a trailer mover hitch set up for for my skid steer style hitches and don't even have to get out of the cab on the skid steer to change hitches and move a trailer. I move most of my trailers with the skid steer. Once in a while I use the MX6000 with a three point style trailer mover.
 
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mcmxi

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Myself I don't want to screw around taking a ball off my forks when I need to move a pallet or tote with the forks. . I have a trailer mover hitch set up for for my skid steer style hitches and don't even have to get out of the cab on the skid steer to change hitches and move a trailer. I move most of my trailers with the skid steer. Once in a while I use the MX6000 with a three point style trailer mover.
I have a King Kutter 3-point receiver with various ball hitches, but there are some advantages to moving a trailer using a ball on a fork. For example, the fork can be located in the center of the tractor or anywhere between the center and the furthest outer position which can be useful if moving a trailer into or out of tight spaces. You can hook up to a trailer with the tractor centerline perpendicular to the trailer centerline, and it's easier and more comfortable moving a trailer on the front fork, particularly if you're trying to thread the needle.

Basically, having a 3-point mounted receiver and a ball on a fork gives me options.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Well, here in Ontario, commercial forklifts and operators get inspected and any fork sets( the 2 on the forklift) that aren't within spec for deflection( say both NOT 22.5" off level floor ) MUST be replaced. So far I've retrieved 6 sets of forks over 20 years. Seems if you off center a heavy load ,one fork will bend more than it's mate. Do it enough times...oopsy..'fails inspection'. Most companies will replace BOTH forks, so that's why I get lots of free forks.
I know ,different lands, different laws. I can see the safety issue though when one fork is even 1 inch higher, load is now unlevel and something tall and heavy could cause a 'problem'.
when you look at the hole in the fork in post #10, that's a LOT of material missing. It is possible the tip could break off trying to fork a heavy load. Rare, yes but I bet it's happened so guv errs on the safe side.
I can see it being a rel pain though when you need the ball then 10 minutes later, gotta find the wrenches to deball the fork for another job, then ,arrrgh...WHERE'S the 2nd wrench gone !!! Slide on receiver seems better...
 
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mcmxi

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Well, here in Ontario, commercial forklifts and operators get inspected and any fork sets( the 2 on the forklift) that aren't within spec for deflection( say both NOT 22.5" off level floor ) MUST be replaced. So far I've retrieved 6 sets of forks over 20 years. Seems if you off center a heavy load ,one fork will bend more than it's mate. Do it enough times...oopsy..'fails inspection'. Most companies will replace BOTH forks, so that's why I get lots of free forks.
I know ,different lands, different laws. I can see the safety issue though when one fork is even 1 inch higher, load is now unlevel and something tall and heavy could cause a 'problem'.
when you look at the hole in the fork in post #10, that's a LOT of material missing. It is possible the tip could break off trying to fork a heavy load. Rare, yes but I bet it's happened so guv errs on the safe side.
I can see it being a rel pain though when you need the ball then 10 minutes later, gotta find the wrenches to deball the fork for another job, then ,arrrgh...WHERE'S the 2nd wrench gone !!! Slide on receiver seems better...
There are many things to worry about, or at least think about when it comes to tractors and implements, but a hole near the end of a tine isn't one of them.

Many years ago when I worked as a diver/welder, and worked in a shipyard, every forklift had a hole at the end of each tine, and all those were ragged holes cut with oxyacetylene. It's such a common modification in the construction industry and I've never heard of it ever being a problem.
 
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GeoHorn

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All the stresses on the fork is either compression or tension (I.E. “bending”) against the “elbow“ at the Frame. A hole anywhere in that fork (Except at that “elbow”) has almost ZERO adverse effect as regards strength of the pallet fork assy.

I’m calling BullShit on any claim that drilling a hole for a trailer ball in pallet forks has Any adverse effect with regard to the Strength of the forks.
 
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D2Cat

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If you are concerned about OSHA regulations any modification to forks needs to be approved at manufacture. Holes drilled later could cause problems on a job site, but personal use is your risk.

 

nbryan

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Had a machinist neighbor try and drill a 1" hole in one fork for a hitch ball, went nowhere with the steel used being too hard, so he used a cutting torch. Did a pretty decent job.
The fine threaded 1" mount pin on the 2" ball works well for hand-install and removal, it's a big nut and lock washer so twisting it on tight enough by hand has always held.
 
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GeoHorn

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Welll…….HOW the hole is created might affect things a bit…. (a torch certainly has greater chance of changing temper …therefore strength.
 

mikester

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I've never liked the 'hole in fork', maybe cause I was told it means that fork cannot be certified for commercial use and if the tip breaks off, home insurance may be null and void.

I did what Matt did, except I used a short 2" receiver. Allows me to use any sleeve, 2", 2 5/16", hook, eye, etc.
Drill the hole. Some guys flame cut holes (bad!) giving un-controlled heat treatments to their forks.
 

Bearcatrp

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BX1880
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Minnesota
Think I will use the hitch built in to my pallet forks for now. Will try to find a long shaft for the ball. Just have to remove the forks. But will find someone with a drill press to have it done correctly down the road. Thanks for all the replies folks.