I have searched for my answer with no luck. When I place the 4x4 lever in gear the front wheels will not pull, Ive tried messsing with a little and here is what I have found so far. tractor on ground I attempted to turn the drive shaft by hand, which it will not so that tells me that either the R&P is stuck fast or it works and my problem is in the transmission. So which is the more common problem the R&P or the gear in the trans its a great little tractor but mowing some steep roadsides with a 62" mower in need it to be 4x4
B7100 4x4 repair
- Thread starter jc82chevyman
- Start date
I've got the same tractor, same problem. I put mine up on jack stands and repeatedly tried (un)engaging the front drive, each time looking to see if the shaft moved at all, and it did not. So mine is not driving out of the transmission. I first thought it felt like the shaft/yoke was not working. But fiddling with it I could definitely feel the gears when carefully working it while running. But in/out, at no time was there any odd noises. So now I'm thinking broken shaft or gear, or maybe get lucky and find a sheared key.
Do you have a FEL? When I got mine, the directional AG tires were on backwards. All combined it leads me to consider that it might have broken the drive when trying to back out of a "bad place" with 4x4 and a bucket load. That would put almost all the drive forces on the front drive, which it's not built to handle. My main hope is that it was engineered with a "weak link" to protect the more important (expensive) pieces from catastrophic failure in such cases. I've not found anything to back that up, but still hopeful.
I keep trying to take time to go into the top side for a look around, but other things have prevented me so far. May be a good time when I do the pending fluid change. But for me, unlike you it seems, the front drive is just nice to have, not necessary. As such, I'm not that pressured to fix it, and it keeps getting pushed back.
Good luck and be sure to post up when/if you resolve this.
Do you have a FEL? When I got mine, the directional AG tires were on backwards. All combined it leads me to consider that it might have broken the drive when trying to back out of a "bad place" with 4x4 and a bucket load. That would put almost all the drive forces on the front drive, which it's not built to handle. My main hope is that it was engineered with a "weak link" to protect the more important (expensive) pieces from catastrophic failure in such cases. I've not found anything to back that up, but still hopeful.
I keep trying to take time to go into the top side for a look around, but other things have prevented me so far. May be a good time when I do the pending fluid change. But for me, unlike you it seems, the front drive is just nice to have, not necessary. As such, I'm not that pressured to fix it, and it keeps getting pushed back.
Good luck and be sure to post up when/if you resolve this.
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Heh, there was a time when I considered such things "fun". Sadly, those days are past. Now I just want it to work and get other things done, so now what used to be fun is now called "work" if I'm feeling good, or PIA (or worse most of the time) if not.
"Now I just want it to work and get other things done, so now what used to be fun is now called "work" if I'm feeling good, or PIA (or worse most of the time) if not. "
I'm with BadDog on this one...
Please document what you find with lots of pics. There are lots of these tractors out there and it would be useful for other folks down the road.
Thanks!
Steve
I'm with BadDog on this one...
Please document what you find with lots of pics. There are lots of these tractors out there and it would be useful for other folks down the road.
Thanks!
Steve
Im leaving to go on vaca so I won't get to tear into it until I get back but I will def document my journey
Ok did a little more digging today. I found that yoke that splines onto the pinion shaft had sheared the role pin and stripped the splines out of it so I guess I'm getting a new one of those. I also learned that you cannot remove the front axle by just pulling the pin. The oil pan is in the way. `So if you have a loader remove it then remove the frame rails that mount to the side of the engine and slide the whole assembly out. Not a bad job just time consuming. So after removing the axle I heard a clunk clunk clunk in the right wheel. So into the axle I go. Started at the wheel, didn't take long and I found the 12T gear had chipped a tooth, great so now my job just got expensive. More to follow.
I doubt it. From what I've found so far, used parts are near impossible to come by. In fact, I'm keeping my ear to the ground for another beater like mine. Plan is to buy it and part it out. Like old trucks, seems like it's almost a guaranteed win. I used to sell Chevy and Ford trucks down to the frame rails and ruined parts which sold for scrap. I could pay going market price and still come out parting it out, if I had the heart to do so. Seems like the CUT tractors are much the same based on prices I've seen. Apparently a good hood alone is worth 10% of what I paid for my tractor WITH FEL.
Anyway, too bad about the wac-a-mole repair. I'm afraid I may be in for much the same, maybe worse. My front drive isn't driving the front output shaft on the trans case, no idea yet how bad it is. But at 120* this last weekend, it will be a few months before I'm motivated to open it up for a look...
I just looked up the parts............ R&P is sold as a four part set.
My guess is that the R&P will run $498.00 and the final drive gear will run $118.00
Let's see how close I am.
Not to mention all the other gaskets and seals............$58 and if he goes that far he will need to swap the universals.........another $109.00
Price your parts. http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...s/&AutoIndex=a47c643769988b5d57f83617b4c04b0f
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I'm still putting the parts list together but right now it's up to about $700. But it's worth fixing that will put my total to around $2700.00 still cheaper than a new one. No payment is a great thing
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I bought my B7100 for $1200 and it turned out to have a bad motor,
$675 for a D950 to replace the dead D750 that was in it.
All back together and running like a top now, and with a major upgrade 16hp original and 21.5 HP upgrade.
Still into it for a heck of a lot less than other sellers wanted for their tractors, and I know a whole lot more about it all with having torn it all down.
$675 for a D950 to replace the dead D750 that was in it. All back together and running like a top now, and with a major upgrade 16hp original and 21.5 HP upgrade.
Still into it for a heck of a lot less than other sellers wanted for their tractors, and I know a whole lot more about it all with having torn it all down.