B6200 3pt Hydraulics - bypassing

[ChrisB6000]

Hello all, I need help, I am at wits end.

I have a B6200 with front end loader.
About a year ago 3pt lift arms wouldn't lift anymore. Nothing.
First checked filters all good, opened up lift cylinder and control valve assembly. After that I reassembled and low in behold the lift arms worked again but with a significant bounce.

I went through the winter like that as it was manageable with just my rear blade. If I jimmy'ed the lift lever I could usually find a happy spot.

Decided to fix the bounce this spring. I pulled the control valve apart to see what might be the issue. Nothing obvious so I reassembled. Now I have a new issue. When I pull the lift lever back to raise, it is very slow and there is a noticeable strain on the engine. Rpms drop and working hard. As soon as it hits top of lift, it kicks out lift and engine returns to a purr but lift arms drop quickly. Obviously hydraulic dead heading or bypassing. THe front end loader hydraulics work as always and no issue so pretty certain pump is fine.

I closed the drop speed all the way and turned off the tractor at full lift to check lift cylinder. It did weep down so I ended up replacing the main lift cylinder o-ring and backer disc. Reassembled, same thing, slow lfit, engine straining and then kick out at top of lift and arms drop.

So I took the control valve apart again today and the only thing I can see that might be an issue the "plug" #220 below doesn't slide easily. For love nor money I can get it out of the control body to be able to clean or inspect. If a rap on the body I can get it to move a bit but I can't pull it from the body and it doesn't slide easily in its travel path, was wondering if that would be causing fluid to be dumping at the same time as lifting?

Any help or advice appreciated,

 

[Clay T.]

Hi Chris, I know it has been a while, but I have the same tractor and a similar problem. When I initially use the 3ph at start-up of the tractor it seems to work OK, however, after about an hour of use, the lift function does not seem to work (or barely works). I too have disassembled my control valve (Note: I don’t seem to have any leakdown, so I don’t think I have problems with the cylinder gasket and O-ring) and I suspect it has got something to do with the relief valve. I have replaced the spring 250 and I have a new seat 230 and o-ring 280, but I can’t get the old valve seat and o-ring out of the body of the control valve to replace them. Much as you had problems getting #220 out. Did you ever figure out how to get #220 out and did you ever replace your relief valve componenets including the valve seat and O-ring. Thanks. Clay

 

[GreensvilleJay]

To get #220 out, you might try a small pair of 'snap ring' pliers that the points go out when you squeeze them. A lot depends on the tips and how big the hole is the spring sits in. If you do get a good grip on the inside, it should wiggle out.

I've done this on similar situations, it may work for you ?

 

[Clay T.]

To get #220 out, you might try a small pair of 'snap ring' pliers that the points go out when you squeeze them. A lot depends on the tips and how big the hole is the spring sits in. If you do get a good grip on the inside, it should wiggle out.

I've done this on similar situations, it may work for you ?

 

[Clay T.]

Thanks for the idea on the snap ring pliars. i think i have a pair. Also, somewhere someone talked about using compressed air, but i have no idea how you would get that behind the valve seat to force it out.